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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Beginners, Training & Tutorials  |  Tutorials  |  Topic: "Milk Jug Septums!" ... A John 'Tuturiol'! « previous next »
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Author Topic: "Milk Jug Septums!" ... A John 'Tuturiol'!  (Read 2700 times)
John Bellucci
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« on: March 20, 2009, 12:08:35 PM »

Milk Jug Septums!

Although I’ve been involved in Taxidermy for going over 40 years now, I find that I truly enjoy continuing my education, always striving to improve.  Back in the late 1970’s I was already trying to produce deer head mounts with as deep nostrils as possible, as well as using other ways to improve the look of all my Taxidermy work besides deer heads.

The last innovation came to me while attending the 1990 IGT (international Guild of Taxidermy) Competition and Convention in Holland, Michigan, at a deer head mounting seminar taught by Joe Coombs aka “Mr. Whitetail”.  I was called upon to assist Joe (who was nursing a severe arm injury) when he asked me show him how I deepen my deer form nostrils.  He then proceeded to “blow my mind” – his words -- with this simple, but extremely effective process of adding a septum to a customer’s mount … a process that can take all of five minutes.  Five minutes worth of form prep that can “ooh and ahh” your customers, for just pennies.  See … we all learn from someone … somewhere!  I have since taken this method to other gameheads and the lifesize versions of those gameheads as well, including African game!

1.  The blackened area shows where the nostril will be opened or hollowed out.  The form used for this mount is a Joe Coombs Classic upright, left turn, #087.  I pretty much use Joe’s forms exclusively.  They have a very “whitetail” look about them, are available in many styles and sizes and the foam is a perfect density.

 
2.  Use a straight-edge and mark a straight line down the center of the muzzle.  Note: the seam line of a form is not always centered!  If you can’t find the center of the muzzle, simply measure the width with a calipers and divide it in half.

 
3.  A small keyhole saw or similar saw is used to cut a straight slot.

 
Side view of slot cutting.  The tape measure gives an idea of how far down you should go.  Notice the blade is not fairly level.

 
4.  Hollow out he nostril with the modeling tool, going in level along the bottom of the nostril.  Sometimes the foam is very tough and the initial cutting can be done wit ha thin bladed knife or an X-acto knife.  Continue working around the nostril, hollowing it out as anatomically correct as possible, using good reference casts and photos.

 
5.  The tool is used to pop and pick the trimmed foam out of the nostril.  Done properly – with practice – the excess foam will pop out in one piece.

 
6.  The point of the modeling tool is showing the rearward directing angle of the front of the inner nostrils as well as showing the opening going all the way through.

 
7.  I like to clean up the slot with my little saw.

 
8.  A riffler file is used to clean up and further shape the nostrils a bit more.

 
9.  The septum(s)-yes, plural!  A plastic gallon milk jug can yield up to 6 areas for septums, providing there are no imprinted numerals or words in any areas.  Notice the reference casts and various markers for applying veins.  Large deer require a large area of textured milk jug.  Here, I’m marking it off.

 
10.  After cutting out this portion of the textured milk jug, it is folded in half, lengthwise, and the fold is pressed flat.  Next I’m using the handle of the scissors for this purpose.  The plastic is folded with the heavy “pebbling” effect – the outside of the jug – on the inside of the septum fold; the smoother “waxier” appearing surface on the outer surface of the septum.

 
11.  The final shape of the folded plastic is cut out to form the septum.  The fold of the plastic is the rear of the septum.

 
12.  The septum is opened for coloring.  If veining is desired, markers are used to draw them in place on the inside of the folded plastic … onto the heavy pebbled surface.

 
13.  Veining or not, the inside is sprayed over with a medium/heavy spray of either Lifetone Dusky Pink or Polytranspar Flesh Lacquer Paints.

 
14.  This shows the outer surface of the septum, and the right side has had the veining enhanced.  The left side was not only to enhanced, but lightly sprayed over, which is what I prefer.


15.  The re-folded septum is being inserted into the slot.  A modeling tool is gently used to ensure the septum lies below the line of the form, and is bedded in the floor of the inner nose area.

 
16.  This is how the form’s nose appears, and then how it looks lit with a flashlight …

 
… and finally, this is how it looks when a light is shown through the nostril!


I know it's hard to see into the nostril here -- I never lit the inner nostril for photos before, as there was no Internet to post pictures on, so there was no need -- my customers would grab a flashlight and look in there "in person"!


There you have it!  Using milk jugs for nose septums is not only good, but the milk is good for for you!  Good luck!

John.

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Jared Adams
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« Reply #1 on: March 20, 2009, 12:50:50 PM »

Excellent tutorial John, Thank you Wink
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Bobbi Meyer
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« Reply #2 on: March 20, 2009, 01:01:23 PM »

cool tutorial John...I enjoy learning everyones different methods. I use the milk jugs too, but put them in differently than you do.
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Schmitty
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« Reply #3 on: March 21, 2009, 06:55:03 AM »

Great, I have been looking for a tutorial on this. 
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JE
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« Reply #4 on: March 21, 2009, 08:13:34 AM »

cool tutorial John...I enjoy learning everyones different methods. I use the milk jugs too, but put them in differently than you do.
OK Bobbie, how about showing us your method , it always helps to have anther way of doing things, nice job LordRusty
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Bobbi Meyer
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« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2009, 11:12:32 PM »

it's on here somewhere.
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JE
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« Reply #6 on: March 22, 2009, 09:38:05 AM »

Found it Bobbie, just need to go to the end of the thread, thanks
http://www.taxidermy.net/forum/index.php/topic,132177.15.html
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brushwolf
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« Reply #7 on: March 22, 2009, 10:55:57 PM »

I learned this Method through a Breakthrough magazine of using a  clear thin plastic and painting it for small mammals like squirrels, and raccoons and such, it works great for them as well. Great tutorial John.
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