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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Beginners, Training & Tutorials  |  Tutorials  |  Topic: Attaching a whitetail skull to a plaque « previous next »
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Author Topic: Attaching a whitetail skull to a plaque  (Read 5018 times)
Da Greek Yooper
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« on: March 31, 2009, 09:50:08 PM »

I have seen alot of different ways people have been attaching there skulls and am dumbfounded as to why they are putting that much effort into it. I will demonstrate the way I attach skulls and it will only take 5 min. For this skull I spray painted the bolt ahead of time, but you can leave it natural if you like. Some people use a similar method using toggle bolts, but I have found this method to be stronger with less opportunity of mechanical failure.

First you need to buy some 1/4"-20, 2 1/2" flat head slotted bolts. I buy the 2 1/2" size because they are big enough for most skulls and can be cut down if needed. For the skull in this tutorial I had to trim it down to 1 3/4".


As you can see in the picture, mark a spot on the bone and use a 1/16" drillbit to make a pilot hole.


I use brad or pilot point drillbits. Use a 1/4" bit to drill straight through the bone into the braincase.


Make sure you drill straight Grin


Using tweezers or needle nose pliers feed the tip of the bolt through the hole inside the braincase and pull until the bolt is seated.


I make my own plaques so during the machining phase I pre drill a centered 1/4" hole for attaching the skull. On the back of the plaque I use a 5/8" spadebit to mortise out a spot for the locknut to sit flush with the back. Set the tip of the bolt in the hole and use the needle nose pliers to grasp in between the plaque and skull and push it through the hole.




Thread a 1/4"-20 locknut on the bolt.


I align the skull on the plaque and use the end of a slotted screwdriver to keep the bolt from twisting while tightening the locknut with a 7/16" socket.


The finished product, a doe that became a muzzy moment.......and it only took 5 min.  Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin





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bulldog4949
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« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2009, 10:59:18 PM »

that is the exact spot i attach also.  I screw a screw through the back of the plaque into the skull not piercing the top of the skull.

Nice job though, I think several will find this helpful.
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jward
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« Reply #2 on: April 06, 2009, 08:24:31 PM »

Did you ever use and anchor in the skull with the bolt fed thru the bottom and if so what do you think makes the way in the tutorial better.  I only ask because I talked to a local guy that uses the anchors, but I think I am going with the way you described in the tutorial.  Just didn't know if there was a down side to the anchors.
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Da Greek Yooper
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« Reply #3 on: April 07, 2009, 08:18:35 PM »

jward,

I have tried toggle bolts with the toggle in the braincase. I personally don't like the fact that when you look at the toggle portion, it has a very small piece of metal that the bolt threads into. I'm a carpenter by trade and would never use a toggle bolt to hold anything with seroius weight other than a picture through drywall. With the nut and bolt there are no mechanical parts to fail. I wouldn't risk a clients elk or deer falling from a failed toggle. As far as time frame between the two methods maybe a minute. Hope this helps.
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jward
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« Reply #4 on: April 08, 2009, 07:11:49 PM »

Hey thanks for the tip I am getting ready do hang a whitetail skull and I am going to use the method you shown us all.
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Leapin
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« Reply #5 on: April 13, 2009, 04:20:49 PM »

The plaque is good looking.  Do you sell any that you make?
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Da Greek Yooper
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« Reply #6 on: April 13, 2009, 09:11:56 PM »

Yeah, shoot me a pm with what you want as far wood species and wether you want flat wall, table pedestal or wall pedestal. I'll send you the prices. Thanks, DREW
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Gobblingfever
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« Reply #7 on: April 15, 2009, 10:17:51 PM »

Gonna change How I do mine now. Toggle bolts or a wood dowel in cavity with decksrews
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Arrowed lungs
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« Reply #8 on: August 04, 2009, 08:38:43 AM »

changing my way too thanks for the tip
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DTSkulls
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« Reply #9 on: December 15, 2010, 09:17:59 PM »

exactly what i was looking for. thanks
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7-Point
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« Reply #10 on: December 16, 2010, 09:43:51 PM »

Man that looks easy. And very cool skull!
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ABG
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« Reply #11 on: April 27, 2011, 11:03:40 AM »

There was mention of not wanting to risk a cliets elk on a toggle type attachment... I want to use this tutorial method on an elk, I was just wondering if you have tried it on an elk... I have a 340 class and I don't want it falling off the wall and I am evaluating my options. 
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Troy Rose
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« Reply #12 on: May 16, 2011, 09:57:56 AM »

I insert a 1 1/4 hardwood dowel (smaller diameter for deer) into the brain cavity. You might have to sand it a bit to get it to fit into the canal opening.  I cut a slight angle to the end that I insert so it does not twist.  I leave about 4 inches sticking out that I will cut off after the foam sets up.  I remove the dowel and fill the brain cavity with DOW EnerFoam Professional Foam Sealant. This stuff works awesome and it sets up in 5-10 minutes.  I then cut the piece of dowel protruding from the skull parallel to the angle of the teeth. There is usually a few inches sticking out when done.  I paint this white as it can not be seen once it is hanging on the wall.  I then use a couple of long #8 self tapping star headed screws and attach it to the plaque from Walnut Creek Hardwood [http://www.walnutcreekhardwood.com].  Make sure your screws are long enough to go through the bone and clear into the dowel and then some.  I use a full Noose hanger on the back for extra security. Good Luck!!!


« Last Edit: May 16, 2011, 10:34:32 AM by Troy Rose » Report to moderator   Logged

vetanddamnproud
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« Reply #13 on: May 23, 2011, 11:08:08 PM »

Very nice Euros Terry Rose They look great!!
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« Reply #14 on: May 28, 2011, 03:15:17 AM »

Very nice Euros Terry Rose They look great!!
x2
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