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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Beginners, Training & Tutorials  |  Tutorials  |  Topic: Molding / Casting a Fish Head in a Cup Mold « previous next »
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Author Topic: Molding / Casting a Fish Head in a Cup Mold  (Read 8366 times)
Dondi
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« on: August 06, 2009, 05:25:33 PM »

MOLDING:
 I use (1) 2.8 lb. kit of OOMOO 25, (mold shown was made from Smooth-sil, but I recommend OOMOO 25. NO de-gassing needed),to mold an average size fish head for an 18-20" trout.
Remove the head from the fish. Fill the back of the fish with Play-doh. Make a small wood pad with a spike or Nail thru the middle of the pad. Place the pad in the cup, glue to the bottom of the cup, (the cup can be made with flexible clear plastic). Then place the fish head in the cup onto the spike to secure.

 Open the mouth to desired position. Then mix the OOMOO 25,  1:1 ratio and pour into cup allowing the material to overflo the top of the kype. Let it harden, then carefully remove the mold and head from the cup. (In most cases, you will have to carefully cut apart the cup.)
 Next, turn the mold upside down and trim the hole to remove the head. Then remove the head and clay, clean the mold
and you are ready to cast...works great.

CASTING:
 Spray (aerosol), a little Universal Mold Release agent, into the cup mold.
Then use mix Ratio 1:1 for Smooth cast 300 or IE3030. Pour 1/4 oz. of part A and 1/4 oz. of part B into a small mixing cup. Stir well then pour directly into the mold.
Now take an acid brush or small brush,and brush the smooth cast 300 all over the interior of the mold until it begins to kick. Clean off your brush and place it into a cup of Acetone to soak. Now wipe the brush off and do the same over agin. Re-using the brush. You will want to make (3) layers inside the mold this way.
 I also will mention that I like to brush for a min. or two, then roll the mold on a table top, between my hands,until it kicks. This allows the centrifigal force to push the material into the mold cavities.  After 3 layers, carefully take pliers and grab a hold of the cast on the flashing side, and begin to pry it free from the mold. Then rotate 180 deg. and do the same thing. Always grabbing the flashing only.
 Once the cast comes out of the mold, you can trim the flashing and grind the inside of the wall thickness of the head, when doing a test fit up to the body of the mount. Then you can sand the top of the head to blend into the body smoothly.
The last picture shows the cast head on a replica brook trout. I used this mold / procedure for the 2009 OTA State Champion Skin mount brook trout as well.
Good luck,
Don


* brk.hd.1a.jpg (18.08 KB, 355x266 - viewed 3992 times.)

* pour.jpg (49.47 KB, 711x533 - viewed 3979 times.)

* brush.jpg (50.95 KB, 711x533 - viewed 3999 times.)
« Last Edit: September 05, 2009, 06:39:13 AM by Dondi » Report to moderator   Logged

Don Patton
N.E., Ohio
dondi10@roadrunner.com
Dondi
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My Grandson's Bluegill


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« Reply #1 on: August 06, 2009, 05:28:00 PM »

some more pics..



* roll.jpg (49.36 KB, 600x533 - viewed 4052 times.)

* pull.jpg (57.59 KB, 711x533 - viewed 4034 times.)
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Don Patton
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dondi10@roadrunner.com
Dondi
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« Reply #2 on: August 06, 2009, 05:29:29 PM »

some more..



* pull2.jpg (49.75 KB, 711x533 - viewed 4010 times.)

* hollow.back.jpg (35.54 KB, 711x533 - viewed 3997 times.)
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Don Patton
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Dondi
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« Reply #3 on: August 06, 2009, 05:32:53 PM »

more...



* hd.flash.jpg (42.12 KB, 711x533 - viewed 4019 times.)

* head.back.jpg (54.19 KB, 711x533 - viewed 3995 times.)
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Don Patton
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Dondi
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« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2009, 07:32:49 AM »

pic of cast brook trout head correctly fitted to body of fish.



* brook3.jpg (86.53 KB, 711x533 - viewed 3822 times.)
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Don Patton
N.E., Ohio
dondi10@roadrunner.com
Speckled Trout
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« Reply #5 on: August 25, 2009, 09:12:47 AM »

How rigid is the molding material once it sets up? 

I'd be nervous about the cast hanging up in the mold.  With a speck, there's a lot to hang up around the jaws, much more than on your brookie.  The process looks simple and worth a try, though.  I would like to practice on a different fish and see what happens.  Where do you purchase the OOMOO 25?

Thanks-Mike
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Triple R
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« Reply #6 on: August 25, 2009, 09:19:43 AM »

The OOMOO 25 is a Smooth On product.
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ROLL TIDE!!!
Dondi
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« Reply #7 on: August 25, 2009, 09:43:52 AM »

Mike,
 Shown below is some technical info. on OOMOO 25, from the Smooth-on web site.
 Hope this helps.
It is flexible, but does not require a mother mold, for this application. No de-gassing as well.

OOMOO® 25 & 30 are easy to use silicone rubber compounds that feature convenient one-to-one by volume mix ratios (no scale necessary). Both have very low viscosity for easy mixing and pouring, and vacuum degassing is usually not necessary. Both products cures at room temperature with negligible shrinkage and have good tear strength.
OOMOO® 30 has a 30-minute pot life, with a six-hour cure time. OOMOO® 25 is a faster version, with a 15-minute pot life and 75 minute cure time. OOMOO® 25 & 30 are suitable for a variety of art-related and industrial applications including making molds for sculpture and prototype reproduction, casting plaster, resins and wax.


OOMOO® 25 - Shore 25A hardness
OOMOO® 30 - Shore 30A hardness

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Don Patton
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Ross Vogler
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« Reply #8 on: August 25, 2009, 09:54:02 AM »

I'm kind of reluctant to say this, but it's pathetic that hardly anyone has responded with a great thank you for taking the time to show us this technique.

It's very generous of you to show us, Don................so thank you very much!! Very cool and will be trying this really soon.
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Kerby Ross
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« Reply #9 on: August 25, 2009, 12:05:27 PM »

You are right about the great tutorial.....also Dondi has answered some e-mails from me a couple of years ago about fish molding.

Smiley

Kerby...
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I'M NOT A TAXIDERMIST, BUT I PLAY ONE ON THE INTERNET
Dondi
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« Reply #10 on: August 25, 2009, 12:56:40 PM »

Marsh Masher & Kerby,
 Thank you for the kind words !
I know there are many ways to accomplish various tasks in Taxidermy. I like to offer an alternative to those that are interested. The cup, fish head molds have yielded many pulls, for commonly mounted fish...Taxi or reproductions.

Speckled Trout,
 I would also mention that I like to spray (aerosol), a little Universal Mold release agent into the mold before I begin to cast a new head. It helps in the release of the head cast.
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Don Patton
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dondi10@roadrunner.com
Joey Arender
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« Reply #11 on: August 25, 2009, 09:56:51 PM »

thanks. I will have to try the play doh ..I hate how I get my hi fiber all over the outside trying to get the head just right. then having  to wash it off and the hi fiber becoming to soft and the throat arear closing to much on me.   

I never though of just setting a smaller head in the cup either. I always have to hot glue the bottom edge of the cup,  since I cut the bottom out,  to my little board to keep rtv in. Learn everyday if you want to around here

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Life is a lot better when your outlook is positive!
Brando24
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« Reply #12 on: August 31, 2009, 06:40:45 PM »

Great post!!!!  I have got 5 Kings, a Sockeye, and a char that I'm getting ready to do. and wanted to cast my own heads.  This will be a great help, Because I have been looking for something like this.
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andy 27
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« Reply #13 on: December 19, 2009, 06:25:44 PM »

great job thanks for the instructions
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JerseyJays
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« Reply #14 on: February 28, 2011, 07:58:20 PM »

great info, thank you! im going to go order this stuff now and try it on a Porgy / Scup i have already done once with algenate and threw out LOL
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