Deer Chief Nephew NIB, here's your girl in progress.

[Glen Conley]

First time using the new computer for photos.  The shots were under exposed, so I used Photo Shop to lighten.  I also wanted to reduce the kb size for faster dowm loading.  It's amazing as to how much the memory can loose with no use.

Any hoo, here she is set up on the molding jig.  I'll take another shot or two, or three once I make the flange dam for the damn flange.

[SCT]

Sheesh Glen, looks like you've been working your arms off. Very nice upright pose on the doe form.

[dipper]

what's the measurements on that baby?

[Glen Conley]

Steve, you're pretty close to right.  Here awhile back, I was going to have these occupational therapists help me restore hand and arm function.  I told them, "You don't seem to understand, my hands and arms stay in constant motion from the time I get up to the time I go to bed.  You aren't doing me a bit of good".  Doing "my thing " has allowed Nature to run it's course, hands and arms are working just fine.

Thanks for the compliment on the pose.  I want body language to show on all my sculptures to the point that even the uninitiated can see the animal is signaling something, even if they don't know how to read the signal.

Dipper, she is a 6 1/2 x 12 1/2.

I've had a 7 inch n-e head done for some time.  I just need to make a mold off of it and I can turn out some sevens.  That time is getting closer.

[Glen Conley]

Nephew NIB, this is a good sign, the dam to create one side of the flange is in place.  It’s down hill now.

The round things are the keys, or pins that keep the mold lined up for production.  Those are just wooden beads like kids make jewelry out of that have been stripped of their paint, and then split.  The drilled hole half in the middle of the bead fits up to a screw driver pretty good, makes it easier to take the beads out of the polyester resin when done.

The square things with a strip of clay leading to them are metal.  These metal squares will be embedded in the flange when done.  After the mold is made and split open, these strips of clay can be removed to give a clean shot to the metal.  A standard screw driver blade fits into the slot created and it makes for easy opening of a mold.

A retainer dam made from clay that will be on the back board still has to be done.

[Glen Conley]

To get that nice thin seam line, a feller has to be in brain surgeon mode.  The union of the clay and sculpture needs to be as close to a right angle as possible, and the clay needs to continue on  a level plane going away from the sculpture.  This level plane is also the foundation for the other half of the flange.  The perimeter of the whole sculpture has to be done like that to get that better than professional end result.

The next two photos are macro shots of the bottom jaw line and the brisket.  This is a good part of getting that minimal leak seam line.  For those of you that don’t know, a poorly made mold will leak at the seam line like a sumbeach.

[Glen Conley]

The clay is a modeling clay that has been made in strips especially for dam making by the Klean Klay company.  The strips are 1/2” thick, 3” wide, and 11” long..  The object of the game is for the clay to be self supporting when the sculpture is set up to the vertical.  But I’m doing this stuff by hand, and I want to do the horizontal.  I was going to cut rods for support and in a conversation with Steve Tait he suggested I use #12 finish nails.  They work beautifully.

Our secretary came in right after I had sunk a bunch of nails into the sculpture, and had some clay on it.  She said “All those nails and holes in that beautiful sculpture, will you be able to fix them?”  I assured here that I could, I just didn’t tell her that this particular sculpture will more than likely be sacrificed when pulled from the mold.  It is Roma Plastilina over urethane foam, and in spite of multiple coats of primer and lacquer, I expect it to stick to the mold cavity Big Time.

[SCT]

Beautiful seam lines Glen. You are Mr. Perfect when it comes to mold making. I bought 20 lbs. of the 1/2" kleen klay slabs for molding ears and I can see why you like it. I paid $1.80 per pound, did you get a better price from your source??

Do you use a chisel to pry the mold apart at the iron squares?? Is that process an industry standard or is it your idea??

Again, beautiful work, Steve

[paul e]

nice Glen
good job!

glad to see your getting close  to full steam

[Brian Jones]

The doe is looking great, Glen. I can't wait to get it. I tanned the cape Yesterday and am ready for the mannikin. Thanks for the update. If I can get someone to PM me this post, I will add pics of the mounted deer here, when finished.

[racksandriverstaxidermy]

Nice

[Shane R.]

Glen, that is a great looking doe form. The size you are making is the exact size I have been looking for......tough to find! How soon might these be available. Btw, just starting out, very new to the game!

Shane

[oldboar]

Very nice...impressive

[Wayne R]

Glenn, always nice to see your creative mine at work.

[Glen Conley]

To get that nice thin seam line, a feller has to be in brain surgeon mode.  The union of the clay and sculpture needs to be as close to a right angle as possible, and the clay needs to continue on  a level plane going away from the sculpture.  This level plane is also the foundation for the other half of the flange.  The perimeter of the whole sculpture has to be done like that to get that better than professional end result.

The next two photos are macro shots of the bottom jaw line and the brisket.  This is a good part of getting that minimal leak seam line.  For those of you that don’t know, a poorly made mold will leak at the seam line like a sumbeach.

The pressures of expanding foam are unreal.  If there is a mold leak at the flanges, or at the backboard, it could possibly cause a shift of the line-up and produce a distorted manikin.

I bought 20 lbs. of the 1/2" kleen klay slabs for molding ears and I can see why you like it. I paid $1.80 per pound, did you get a better price from your source??
 

I’m supposed to have a wholesale account with the factory.  I buy direct, they are only about ninety miles from me.  A buck eighty per pound is what I just paid for one hundred pounds.

Do you use a chisel to pry the mold apart at the iron squares?? Is that process an industry standard or is it your idea??
 

Nope, just about any size standard screwdriver.  The bigger blades will have the mold opening before you ever get to the metal.  The metal and channel was my idea.  I ran it past a couple of people and they told me that it wouldn’t work.  Notice I didn’t pay much attention to their “opinions”.

nice Glen
good job!

glad to see your getting close  to full steam

Deer Step Nephew Paul; this is the guy that was written off as dead, then when I didn’t die, the prognosis was changed to he’ll never walk again.  I’m alive and walking, but I’ll be some kind of cripple once everything is all said and done.  The steel in my back where I once had a vertebrae and discs limits my lifting capabilities.  One thing about being a human guinea pig, you don’t know what to expect.  Full steam will never happen.

Glen, that is a great looking doe form. The size you are making is the exact size I have been looking for......tough to find! How soon might these be available. Btw, just starting out, very new to the game!

Shane

I wouldn’t think it to be too hard to find, that’s a fairly common doe size, but  around here it is a yearling or two year old.

Keep an eye on this thread and you will have a good idea as to when it will be available.  It’s going to be pretty soon.  The forms will be made and distributed by Quality Taxidermy Supply of Kinston, North Carolina.   You can order one ahead of time, just call and tell Terry or Tammy that you want one of my new doe forms sent to you as soon as the mold comes in,  They’ll do it for you no problem.  Their toll free is 1-888-527-8722.

The rest of you guys, thanks for the compliments.  Nephew NIB, stay tuned.