Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
May 25, 2012, 05:32:57 PM

Login with username, password and session length
Search:     Advanced search
1342118 Posts in 139427 Topics by 36716 Members
Latest Member: Stina
* Home Help Help Search Calendar Login Register
Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Taxidermy Discussion Categories  |  Skulls and Skeletons  |  Topic: Why do some thing rot faster then others?? « previous next »
Pages: [1] 2 Print
Author Topic: Why do some thing rot faster then others??  (Read 1021 times)
rasorbackq
Silver Member
***
Location: Just outside Halifax Nova Scotia Canada
Posts: 419


« on: April 02, 2010, 05:53:19 PM »

I ve started to macerate a few skulls.  Normally I just simmer  but always have  problems with the meat not coming off easly. I have been watching this group and have a few questions .  Over 3 weeks ago I put a cow skull no horns, otter, fox ,yote and coon  in a 30 gallon bucket outside with a aquarium heater set on 90 The smaller items have been in open zip lock bags. Today I pulled the cow head out and the bottom jaw has some stuff that runs inside the jaw still left the neck has lots on it still but moving along nicely. The stuff in the bags the coon is almost done but the other look like they haven't even start to rot.  An ideas as to why.
 How can 10 lbs of cow head rot off and not even an ounce of fox?
Report to moderator   Logged
Toxic
Platinum Member
*****
Location: Cusseta Georgia
Posts: 2154


Jim


WWW
« Reply #1 on: April 02, 2010, 07:28:35 PM »

thats one sly fox you got there dude....LOL, no idea man, was the fox head under water or was it floating ? the maceration pro's will chime in shortly
Report to moderator   Logged

I carry a gun, because a cop is too heavy
skulley
Silver Member
***
Location: pacific northwest
Posts: 265



« Reply #2 on: April 02, 2010, 07:33:42 PM »

not really qualified to answer this but since i cant keep my mouth shut here is my uneducated opinion.  meat type, some more tightly packed/developed v/s stringy?  and placement of one skull v/s another being in the hot zone by the heater?    Huh
Report to moderator   Logged

you said it would only hurt a litlle!!
Head Hunting Iowan
Platinum Member
*****
Location: Fort Dodge, Iowa
Posts: 1692



« Reply #3 on: April 02, 2010, 09:12:09 PM »

Most of my smaller animals are done in 4-5 days.  I've had 13 heads in one bucket and almost all of them were done by that time, think I had 2 or so that needed 2 more days.  I'll guess in Canada, being outside, you're losing most of your heat unless you have it insulated.  If the cow was near the warmer water and the smaller ones were near the outside of the tank that would explain it.  Its the only thing I can think of.
Report to moderator   Logged

The statement below is true.
The statement above is false.
rasorbackq
Silver Member
***
Location: Just outside Halifax Nova Scotia Canada
Posts: 419


« Reply #4 on: April 03, 2010, 12:08:23 PM »

 The hot zone kind of makes sense. The cow skull was from bottom to top  and its realy nice from nose to about eyes. The back of skull is on the bottom is rotting but not like the rest  But it is rotting at the same rate as the skulls in bags . Most must be on the bottom where the water is cooler.
Report to moderator   Logged
rasorbackq
Silver Member
***
Location: Just outside Halifax Nova Scotia Canada
Posts: 419


« Reply #5 on: April 10, 2010, 12:57:30 PM »

 Should I leave these skulls in longer  or do I have to assist the back of the skulls along?. Should all the canals through the skull be clean or do they require assistance also?



Report to moderator   Logged
Guus
Silver Member
***
Location: Sweden
Posts: 261



WWW
« Reply #6 on: April 10, 2010, 02:19:57 PM »

The difference in rotting time between skulls (or skeletons) puzzles me as well. Lately I cleaned some bird skeletons and some of them looked untouched while others were perfectly clean. So far I have experienced that certain birds are easier to clean than others, cormorants and gannets are for example very easy to clean, while parrot skulls can be a real pain.

The amount of tendon at the back of the head is definitively of importance, as you noticed yourself. If you leave the skulls long enough they will rot away at last, but some cutting and pulling might speed things up. It also helps to increase the heat the last couple of days when the skulls are nearly clean.

Sometimes it seems that the wrong bacteria take over and nothing happens. Then it can be helpful to change the water from a maceration tank that is already going strong.
Report to moderator   Logged
rasorbackq
Silver Member
***
Location: Just outside Halifax Nova Scotia Canada
Posts: 419


« Reply #7 on: April 10, 2010, 02:42:54 PM »

I cant increase the heat as Its maxed out at 90. These skulls have be in over a month . Today I took them out and the heater had a lot of stuff burnt to it  Was at least 1/8 all over. I had the heater in a  pvc pipe so as not to burn the skulls.
 Seems the fox and yote skulls have a more sinew on the back of skulls and lots on the cow skull  Coons and otter are are almost done.
Report to moderator   Logged
benjhind
Silver Member
***
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 425



« Reply #8 on: April 10, 2010, 10:15:24 PM »

You can wait ages for some of the tendons to rot away, but I just snip them off and start degreasing... degreasing can help loosen some of the last bits of flesh and if ligaments make it all the way until the whitening stage, just scrape them off when it has dried.  Just do your first couple of degreasing water changes in a well-ventilated area, as it will be funky.

JM2c
Report to moderator   Logged

One advantage to having buckets full of rotting skulls laying around is that decorating for Halloween is easy...
Head Hunting Iowan
Platinum Member
*****
Location: Fort Dodge, Iowa
Posts: 1692



« Reply #9 on: April 10, 2010, 10:27:17 PM »

Same as what Ben said.  If its all done but a few small pieces I just start degreasing it and use a brass brush on the spots until it all comes off.  Never had ligaments stay past 2 changes, and yes it will stink lol.  Prolly gonna have to help the canals along.  If you cant pull 90% of that meat off the bull I'd keep rotting it.
Report to moderator   Logged

The statement below is true.
The statement above is false.
rasorbackq
Silver Member
***
Location: Just outside Halifax Nova Scotia Canada
Posts: 419


« Reply #10 on: April 11, 2010, 06:38:12 AM »

 So I am at a degreasing stage. and hope that its smells better then the maceration stage.
Read on here where there is very little smell Holy Crap I cant go anywhere in the yard without smelling it.

  I will cut off the large tendon on the cow skull. I have searched but have not found any recipes for degreasing . Guys talk about Dawn soap, water, ammonia . Is javex  and ammonia the same? If not where does one get ammonia?  What is the ration for water to dawn and other ingredients. I will be heating the water to about 90 deg.  I would think that the Dawn would just float? Do you have to stir to get better degreasing?
Report to moderator   Logged
MoonSal
Bronze Member
**
Location: Eastern, KY
Posts: 145



« Reply #11 on: April 11, 2010, 07:50:57 AM »

So I am at a degreasing stage. and hope that its smells better then the maceration stage.
Read on here where there is very little smell Holy Crap I cant go anywhere in the yard without smelling it. ..LOL... Only if that were true..HAH

  I will cut off the large tendon on the cow skull. I have searched but have not found any recipes for degreasing . Guys talk about Dawn soap, water, ammonia . Is javex  and ammonia the same? If not where does one get ammonia? Lowes has it. And acetone as well.. What is the ration for water to dawn and other ingredients. I use about a 1/4 cup dawn per gallon of water at 90 degrees and change daily.. It seems to work good for me.. I will be heating the water to about 90 deg.  I would think that the Dawn would just float? Do you have to stir to get better degreasing? It's doesn't hurt.. These guys a pretty dang good with their bones on here, i'm  sure you will get all the help you need.. Sorry couldn't be much help.. Good luck.

Report to moderator   Logged
benjhind
Silver Member
***
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 425



« Reply #12 on: April 11, 2010, 09:35:42 AM »

Degreasing isn't rocket science, just pretend you're mixing up dish water...I don't bother with ammonia or acetone unless it is being very stubborn.  Stay far away from Javex as it will eat your skull.
Report to moderator   Logged

One advantage to having buckets full of rotting skulls laying around is that decorating for Halloween is easy...
rasorbackq
Silver Member
***
Location: Just outside Halifax Nova Scotia Canada
Posts: 419


« Reply #13 on: May 08, 2010, 10:27:15 AM »

Not quite sure what to look for as I degrease . In the small bucket I have a few coons skull an otter and yote. In the same location I have a cow skull . Seems the cows water is very cloudy with white stuff. All Skulls have been degreasing for a week.  They macerated for about 2 months.  I know the pics have a lot of shine  but what does oil being pulled from a skull look like . I see no oils on the surface  just a lot of white stuff buoyant in the water  for the cow and very little for the remainder.

 The smaller bucket is in with the bigger  and uses one heater set at about 90 deg .  It is not insulated.










Report to moderator   Logged
Head Hunting Iowan
Platinum Member
*****
Location: Fort Dodge, Iowa
Posts: 1692



« Reply #14 on: May 08, 2010, 03:02:47 PM »

You wont see the grease, its broken down.  Looks like its time for a water change, everything looks normal to me.  Oh the white stuff floating is meat.
Report to moderator   Logged

The statement below is true.
The statement above is false.
Pages: [1] 2 Print 
Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Taxidermy Discussion Categories  |  Skulls and Skeletons  |  Topic: Why do some thing rot faster then others?? « previous next »
Jump to:  


Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Contents © 2006-2012 Taxidermy.Net, LLC. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy.
Powered by SMF 1.1.16 | SMF © 2005, Simple Machines
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!