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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Taxidermy Discussion Categories  |  Molding and Casting  |  Topic: Repairing Antler Shed « previous next »
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Author Topic: Repairing Antler Shed  (Read 717 times)
darrickr
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« on: April 18, 2011, 10:58:01 AM »

I found this shed while turkey hunting but as you can see half the left side is missing.  I was looking for advice on how to create a mirror image of the other side, to complete the rack.  Another catch, if possible, I would like to have the repaired part be connected in a way I can remove it.  So I can see how the shed was when I found it, and then put on the repair as to what it would have looked like.  Any advice, tips, etc would be appreciate.  I will continue to search through the forum.  Thanks in advance


* antler_600x450.jpg (125.11 KB, 600x450 - viewed 274 times.)
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marshell-with-an-e
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Location: Jacksonville, Arkansas
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« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2011, 03:25:49 PM »

Ok it's not a shed, it's a dead deer's skull.
The pictures indicates that it has chew marks all over the deer's left antler.
you could repair the left chew marks,  mold it and then transfer it to the right side.
now to beable to remove it.
you would mold the end of the right side like it is. pour a cast of it. attach
the cast of the left side using a release between the two parts.
Some under cut may need to be made.
then use two strong magnets, inbed one in the real antler's right side
the put the other into the cast that you make earlier.
maybe it works maybe it won't
would have to see it up close.
That's my fix.

Marshell
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dc240nt
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Location: NW MN
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Lets Talk Big Bucks!!


« Reply #2 on: April 29, 2011, 01:08:20 PM »

Marshall, I am curious how you are going to turn a left antler into a right?
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marshell-with-an-e
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« Reply #3 on: April 29, 2011, 05:07:48 PM »

the rack in the picture, above, only needs 1/2 of the right side.
according to the left antler it's pretty much straight.
make a mold of the left side and attach the mold to the right, there might be
two inches of a turn that you will have to epoxy in.

here is a picture of a buck that was missing 32 inches, I molded the opposite side points and moved them over.



here is the finished copy.



I've got a floor full to repair.

Marshell
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dc240nt
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Location: NW MN
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Lets Talk Big Bucks!!


« Reply #4 on: April 29, 2011, 11:31:50 PM »

Thank you for the reply. I take it you are doing the beam without the G4 or 3 points? I can see the points being reversed, but I cant see the beam doing so with those points on there. Maybe I'm to blinded to see the whole picture. Nice work by the way.
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marshell-with-an-e
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Location: Jacksonville, Arkansas
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« Reply #5 on: April 30, 2011, 09:12:30 AM »

About the rack  I repaired: I did the main beam by itself .
the G-1 was missing, I did a reverse of the right g-1 and up it on the left side.
The forked g-2: came from the right g-2 point, the fork was larger on the left side.
The g-3 was molded off the right g-3 and moved over.
the G-4 was copied all the way to were the point rested on the main beam and was the last point to be repaired.
Now back to your question on replicating the whole side.
Think of the mold looking like a glove, the finger would be the points and the hole that you put your hand in would
 be the underside of the main beam, the pinky woudl be the main beam tip.
The mold is flexable and allows movement so alignment can be made.
Hope that helps.

Marshell
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