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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Taxidermy Discussion Categories  |  Molding and Casting  |  Topic: reproduction mule deer antlers « previous next »
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Author Topic: reproduction mule deer antlers  (Read 596 times)
jazz_fan1
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Location: Wyoming
Posts: 154



« on: November 14, 2011, 03:12:47 PM »

After over a year of study, I finally got into trying my first set of reproduced antlers. Holy buckets was it a lot of work! I think they turned out good though. Not a single bubble anywhere in them. Nice story to go with them too.

19 years ago a female hunter shot this deer and her nephew asked if he could tag it and enter it into his high school big buck contest as his own. She agreed. Small town, and big lies dont go together. He took the buck and won with it and then refused to ever give the antlers back. She was heart broken. She has hunted a few more times over the years but never killed anything mature since. When she told me this story I asked if I could contact her nephew. Long story short, now they both win.

I just need a cape.


* DSCF6159.jpg (31.89 KB, 450x338 - viewed 282 times.)
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jazz_fan1
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Location: Wyoming
Posts: 154



« Reply #1 on: November 14, 2011, 03:48:10 PM »

after some painting


* DSCF6164.jpg (45.68 KB, 450x338 - viewed 279 times.)

* DSCF6163.jpg (38.22 KB, 450x338 - viewed 279 times.)
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jazz_fan1
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Location: Wyoming
Posts: 154



« Reply #2 on: November 14, 2011, 03:49:52 PM »

I am not happy with how much shine I see. They have dulled a little since the picture was taken but not much. Anything besides matte finish clear spray?
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marshell-with-an-e
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Location: Jacksonville, Arkansas
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« Reply #3 on: November 14, 2011, 05:55:27 PM »

you got to shake the can for at least 2 minutes to get the flatting agent off the bottom.
I won't work over the gloss look, that is make it look flat. you could strip with laquar and redo it.
Good Luck,
nice job!
Marshell
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antlerman
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Posts: 8047



« Reply #4 on: November 14, 2011, 06:20:05 PM »

Well, Marshell is a humble man and an overall good guy with tons of experience, so listen to him. But what he didn't tell you that I will is this. He has a paint system that works well for uerothane pours. Get with him and get his paint system. It will help your finished product a lot. Good Luck and yes a ton of hard work. Welcome to our world!  LOL
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jazz_fan1
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Location: Wyoming
Posts: 154



« Reply #5 on: November 14, 2011, 07:14:04 PM »

Thanks guys and I am certainly all ears on any of this process.

I used a mix of acrylic paints, all applied with airbrush and some rub on/ rub off stains. I set the layers several times as I went with the matte finish spray can. I thought it turned out well. Now you guys have me thinking its junk. haha. Just humble enough to bow to experts at my own expense I suppose.

Would you start over? I have read that you can take something natural, like juniper branches and rub some of that "off the shelf" look away. In this case I imagine much of that acrylic paint might try to rub off too easily. I can produce better pictures of the originals if that helps. Mule deer are hard!

Good thing hard work feels so rewarding.
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antlerman
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« Reply #6 on: November 15, 2011, 12:09:59 AM »

Oh PLEASE don't misunderstand. We feel your Pain. All of us have had to go thru huge learning curves to find what works for us. NONE of us do things the same way. No it's not junk at all. It's your first and you should feel accomplished. Just making a mold is an accomplishment. Just trying to steer you in a direction that will help save your sanity. I personally use a polyester based concocsion and use oil paints to color. Many others use the two part resins and find ways of coloring that works for them. There is no set rule on how you do it. I just offered Marshell's paint system as something that you may find workable for you. But then again, everyone's techinques are unique to the individual.

Don't start over. Just pour another cast and try something different. I probably did 25 molds and casts just experimenting until I landed on what works best for me. You will find your way, If you stick with it.  GL
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Shedfreak88
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« Reply #7 on: November 15, 2011, 12:23:54 PM »

They look great man nice job! painting is a pain to figure out but eventually you'll find whats easy for you and works best. What material did you decide to use to pour your cast?
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jazz_fan1
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Location: Wyoming
Posts: 154



« Reply #8 on: November 15, 2011, 03:46:01 PM »

Its smooth cast 320. I bought the pint kit twice and have only a very small amount left.
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antlerman
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Posts: 8047



« Reply #9 on: November 15, 2011, 03:53:24 PM »

If you are playing with smooth on products, you might want to talk to Doug Bridges on here. He' a smooth-on rep and I'm sure has some tricks up his sleeve as well. Plus, he's a good guy and will be glad to offer help.
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