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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Taxidermy Discussion Categories  |  Tanning  |  Topic: hide softness « previous next »
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Author Topic: hide softness  (Read 1284 times)
paule
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Location: harvey.LOUSIANA
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« Reply #15 on: December 21, 2011, 07:19:02 AM »

Pope try Old shavers stuff
now I'm mainly talking for mounts but I'm sure the backhide stuff is even better

i know how to thin
and when i switched to Old shavers paint on the hides were softer
and had less pull when drying

and the backhides or excess that ends up being trimmed after test fitting after tanning were softer
some scraps were not thinned down far and are not super limber but are definitely softer than i was use to with lutan or easy 100
now the only difference was the tan and it was a paint on

good stuff
ESPECIALLY FOR A GUY NOT THINNING GOOD ENOUGH YET!
and Oldshaver i use a brine\5.5 pH. stop rot super saturated  most of the time

you need to get a wheel to get things done properly but Oldshavers stuff helps

A early but Merry Christmas to all
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stoprot takes care of the unknown
clifftax
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« Reply #16 on: January 06, 2012, 06:46:50 AM »

Spending 15 minutes, with a small plam sander, the kind you just stick on the round sand paper, will DO WONDERS to soften a back skin.

This is exactly what I do for deer & beaver hides.
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Southland Taxidermy
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« Reply #17 on: January 06, 2012, 08:07:50 PM »

I am working on a deer skin that I have Krowtanned and applied the McKenzie leather oil to it and am on day 3 of breaking the skin as it dries. As of now the skin is not soft enough to give back to the customer. I did shaved the skin before the oiling process should I use a sander on it? Tumble it? re apply oil?
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clifftax
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« Reply #18 on: January 08, 2012, 03:53:20 PM »

Southland Taxidermy, I dont know if I would use Krowtan for garment tanning. As far shaving the skin down, that should have done prior to tanning. Have you tried the hand sander method mentioned above ?
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Southland Taxidermy
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« Reply #19 on: January 08, 2012, 04:28:05 PM »

havn't yet but am going to
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