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Alum tan vs knobloch liqua tan cost wise
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Topic: Alum tan vs knobloch liqua tan cost wise (Read 361 times)
bull and bear man
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Posts: 36
Alum tan vs knobloch liqua tan cost wise
«
on:
December 18, 2011, 12:00:40 AM »
im 30 years in the buiss and 20 in tanning .I may do the most bison shoulders in the country .For ever ive been using sulfuric and alum and been skipping the neutralize process just washing good beyween steps oops!.Ive had no problems doin and use knobloch oil from jonas.My tanner that helps me some when i need a large order of twenty done fast told me his tan was his oil.My skins dont get soft or turn white until they hit the alum .Perhaps if i neutralize they will plump up so i can shave easier .I do 175 bison a year and 100 bears mainly heads and shoulders cant get what the rugs are worth anymore .Im a whoesaler but anyway.I figure i could oil tan 10 capes minus head.with a gallon of oil. at 60.00 bucks where alum is 40.00 for 50lb bag and would make 5 or 6 tans in a 100 gallon tank and each doing 20 capes before dumping so why would my tanner friend use oil.He must be using something cheaper .ANY INPUT i think ill start neutralizing again but i havnt done it in five years and had no problems.I just dont see oil tan over alum HELP
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bull and bear man
New Member
Posts: 36
Re: Alum tan vs knobloch liqua tan cost wise
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Reply #1 on:
December 18, 2011, 12:07:56 AM »
By the way i think knobloch has great products .just trying to understand a little better.All my animals are mounted using the wet tan process .Thanks I know im gonna get a call from dale oh crap!
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muscle20
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Posts: 1289
Re: Alum tan vs knobloch liqua tan cost wise
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Reply #2 on:
December 20, 2011, 03:01:00 AM »
Man I do not know whether you fully understand what you are doing to all these skins, I do not want to seem rude, but are you saying that you use H2SO4(sulphuric acid) in your pickle, then submit your skins to alum, or just subjecting your skins to alum as alum dissolved in water is converted into basic aluminium sulphate + sulphuric acid, so you are saying that you do not neutralize?? Wow! It is a good thing that you are only wet tanning, its a disaster as it is, could you imagine the disaster if you dry tanned!! Along with the alum tanning methods are archaic as H2SO4 is added to the skins, making there shelf life very limited in most cases, even after a short storage if the conditions are right the sulphuric acid will come alive and your skins will tear just like wet tissue paper.
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