Tine Repair - My quick painting method
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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Beginners, Training & Tutorials  |  Tutorials  |  Topic: Tine Repair - My quick painting method « previous next »
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Cole
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« on: December 23, 2011, 07:21:12 PM »


I use Fix-It by Aves for making my tines. I do this over 10ga. - 12ga. wire with hot glue on it. (the glue gives the epoxy an irregular surface to grab)



I color my tines with oils, using burnt sienna, burnt umber, yellow ochre, black, and white (not pictured)




I start by spraying a light coat of burnt umber Polyranspar lacquer paint.




I steel wooled it just a touch to lighten it. If you don't get it too dark this isn't necessary.




A mixture of yellow ochre, burnt sienna was painted on by brush in a thin wash. I use lacquer thinner to thin the oils way down. Mineral spirits doesn't dry quickly enough for me. The secret is go thin. This isn't the final color, you can always add more later. Dry brushing on a tiny bit of white is sometimes helpful after this step.




With a small brush stipple on some un-thinned burnt umber. No need to be accurate.




Using a large, clean dry brush go over your stippling and blend to your liking. Don't blend it too much, because you are going to do this again later.




Being a little more precise with your markings, do it again with burnt umber, as well as some black stippling. Using VERY little paint is the key.




Dry brush it again. I only did this twice, but the more you do it the darker the tine will get.




Seal it with Krylon Matte finish and you're done.



Another angle.




Always check your customer comments first. I just noticed this was to be a split G-2...CRAP. I'll be adding the split now. Oh well, this is it before I start drilling again. LOL
« Last Edit: December 23, 2011, 08:03:06 PM by Cole » Logged

     
Cole Cruickshank
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« Reply #1 on: December 23, 2011, 07:31:53 PM »

Great Job ! You are a true artist, that blends in perfect !
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TMALONE
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« Reply #2 on: December 23, 2011, 08:19:54 PM »

marking
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Matt
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« Reply #3 on: December 23, 2011, 09:25:23 PM »

Looks great Cole, now get back to work and finish the split!(LOL) Don't feel bad, I have done the very same thing!
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mountin man
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« Reply #4 on: December 23, 2011, 09:31:40 PM »

Marking


Outdoor Hub mobile, the outdoor information engine
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0islandson
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« Reply #5 on: December 23, 2011, 10:35:36 PM »

marking
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antlerman
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« Reply #6 on: December 23, 2011, 11:56:02 PM »

Nice Job Cole.
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Donnie C.
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« Reply #7 on: December 24, 2011, 11:11:18 AM »

Good job Cole. That sounds like something I would do! Lol
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Ron Elkins Taxidermy
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« Reply #8 on: December 24, 2011, 11:19:57 AM »

It is an unwritten rule in taxidermy tutorials/seminars, that you must NOT have clean hands, and trimmed fingernails. Didn't you get the memo? I suppose you are wearing clean clothes, too?
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KBauman
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« Reply #9 on: December 24, 2011, 11:26:26 AM »

Very nice Cole.
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Timber Ghost
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« Reply #10 on: December 25, 2011, 09:36:51 AM »

Nice Work

Oil paints are the medium to use, if you work at it there are no limits with oils, on color and detail you cannot accomplish
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kyddm
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« Reply #11 on: December 25, 2011, 03:34:18 PM »

Always check your customer comments first. I just noticed this was to be a split G-2...CRAP. I'll be adding the split now. Oh well, this is it before I start drilling again. LOL

Cole, I have always wanted a droptine buck. It may not be so hard to get one now. LOL!
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paul e
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« Reply #12 on: December 29, 2011, 01:59:28 PM »

very nice Cole!
i love the oil paints also
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using stop-rot up front makes everything else go better
and somewhere off in the distance a deer grunted
little fred
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« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2012, 03:12:37 PM »

AWWWWWWWSOME      you don't get any better then that.....


freddy
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BOWFISH
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« Reply #14 on: January 05, 2012, 09:00:57 AM »

the paint is a very good match but was that tine really that long or fat?
 the reason i ask is it looks skinny at the base.
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