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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Taxidermy Discussion Categories  |  Lifesize Mammals  |  Topic: What do you use to cover and stamp bear paws. « previous next »
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Big Country
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« on: January 04, 2012, 11:15:38 AM »

 I am working on my first bear, and I want to cover the stitches on the paws. I wanted to know what does some people use to get that pattern thats on the paw? Can anyone please help. thanks
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freeze_1
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« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2012, 11:40:33 AM »

I use all game  to cover the stitches and feather it out. While still workable, scribe in any creases and sculpture the pad and texture with a medium to stiff brush. After it cures, spray sealer on it then paint.
  This also helps to lock all stitches, an added benefit.
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Appalachia Taxidermy
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Kerby Ross
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« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2012, 11:46:47 AM »

Also, next time you get a fresh bear in just take some silicone (GI 1100) and make a mold of the pad.  And then later use it as a press on your apoxie sclulpt.

Smiley

Kerby...
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I'M NOT A TAXIDERMIST, BUT I PLAY ONE ON THE INTERNET
freeze_1
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my buiness manager 1489 Nauvoo Road, Morris, Pa.


« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2012, 12:22:12 PM »

Also, next time you get a fresh bear in just take some silicone (GI 1100) and make a mold of the pad.  And then later use it as a press on your apoxie sclulpt.

Smiley

Kerby...
Kerby,
  Speaking of the next fresh bear....... Have you ever tried cutting the relief cut on bear paws about a 1/2" on one side or the other inside the hair line, thus saving from cutting up the center of the paw pads them selves. Stitching inside the hair line later can be hidden, and you have pretty much eleminated the paw pad recreation.
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RTtaxidermy
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« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2012, 04:13:15 PM »

Also, next time you get a fresh bear in just take some silicone (GI 1100) and make a mold of the pad.  And then later use it as a press on your apoxie sclulpt.

Smiley

Kerby...
Kerby,
  Speaking of the next fresh bear....... Have you ever tried cutting the relief cut on bear paws about a 1/2" on one side or the other inside the hair line, thus saving from cutting up the center of the paw pads them selves. Stitching inside the hair line later can be hidden, and you have pretty much eleminated the paw pad recreation.


That's how I do it too
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nitt
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« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2012, 06:41:47 PM »

Cut around paw hides stitch n no damage to paw in long run less overall work time guaranted
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murph
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« Reply #6 on: January 12, 2012, 05:51:55 PM »

Exactly what I do..... cut around it and let the hair hide them stitches ,,,, Saves a lot of time in finish work...
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Lance Murphy
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« Reply #7 on: January 12, 2012, 06:40:01 PM »

X2
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George Roof
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« Reply #8 on: January 12, 2012, 10:44:15 PM »

LOL  "Less time"Huh?  I don't think so.  I split mine right down the center (I don't have to use the Braille system to align the support rods that way).  Then I use my 1/4 upholstery stapler to staple the pad back together.  The staples imbed into the pads.  I let it dry and then take my scalpel and shave down the puckered edges.  I use black Apoxie Sculpt and cover the entire pad.  I let it set for an hour and then I take a terrycloth towel and press it into the curing Apoxie.  Now I'm sure some purist would be able to tell where I'd repaired, but I've never found a customer who every questioned it.
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Bill Yox
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« Reply #9 on: January 13, 2012, 05:37:51 PM »

I prefer to go inside the hairline too, and cut across once I learn where the rods will be needed. But sometimes it really doesnt matter, then its right up the middle! In fact, if its an exposed paw on the desired pose, Ill usually cut the rod right off so theres no additional repair or relief cuts needed.
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JL
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« Reply #10 on: January 14, 2012, 02:18:12 PM »

WOW....I can't believe I'm disagreeing with old George. I cut around the bear paw and I like to cut along the bottom side of the paw when viewing and along the front between the pad and the toes. This makes it easier to skin and flesh and the stitches are never seen. Best part is that there is never any repair work to do. As for the placement of support rods through the pad...simply measure the location of the rod and cut a relief hole....then slide the pad over the rod before stitching. Work smarter....not harder!!!  JL
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Jim B
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« Reply #11 on: January 15, 2012, 09:29:00 AM »

I do them very close to what George describes.It saves a lot of sewing and pads often have to be repaired anyway.If you don't like the terry cloth texture,make a texture pad as Kerby mentioned.If you want a real good blend,surface the entire pad,feathered to the edges,then texture.It goes very quickly.
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George Roof
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« Reply #12 on: January 15, 2012, 12:56:39 PM »

Thanks Jim

JL, that's about the only time we've disagreed, so I guess that's not bad for two old farts (even if you are MUCH older).  I found sewing close to the pad.  The pad will not take a lot of cinching thread and any puckers will be visible if you don't stay after it.  But I've never been a big fan of sewing when I don't have to.  This is one of those ideal situations where I can staple and cover without worrying about what might show.
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Bill Yox
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« Reply #13 on: January 15, 2012, 03:49:43 PM »

George, with many of the bear forms I build up the bottom of the foot already, so to me, staples arent an option. I just cut inside the hairline, BECAUSE that pad edge doesnt hold stitches very well.
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