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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Taxidermy Discussion Categories  |  Skulls and Skeletons  |  Topic: beetle box « previous next »
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cook taxidermy
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« on: February 07, 2012, 04:26:26 PM »

this is my beetle box that i just finished today was wondering what y'all thought about it its framed up in 2x2s with ply wood sides the bottom i put white glass broad didnt know if i should put glass broad on all four sides thanks~Cook
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cook taxidermy
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« Reply #1 on: February 07, 2012, 04:51:26 PM »

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The Dog
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« Reply #2 on: February 07, 2012, 06:12:17 PM »

2 weeks
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cook taxidermy
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« Reply #3 on: February 07, 2012, 06:18:52 PM »

2 weeks
two weeks? i dont understand what you mean two weeks please explain thanks~cook
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backstrapfever
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« Reply #4 on: February 07, 2012, 07:24:32 PM »

I would imagine the larvae would bore through that particle board??
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RD Martin
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« Reply #5 on: February 07, 2012, 07:40:10 PM »

two weeks to chew through or two days to climb out.
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Toxic
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« Reply #6 on: February 07, 2012, 08:05:08 PM »

plus its not sealed against invasion from other beetles and ants. but it can be sealed and you can cover the inside with epoxy resin. the same as when you do fiberglass. this will keep the bugs from chewing through and then you can take the hinge off the doors so you can get some sort of rubber seal on it. you need to keep other bugs out and its going to be tough to do that with the smell that's going to be coming from the box.
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cook taxidermy
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« Reply #7 on: February 08, 2012, 01:54:47 AM »

thanks for all the help if i put the glass broad on all four sides would that help ? or epoxy resin be better off thanks~cook
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backstrapfever
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« Reply #8 on: February 08, 2012, 03:37:42 AM »

THey still will be able to climb and chew the frame boards.  I would use a glass aquarium or sterilite tub.  A big custom box would be good if you need a huge box.  I just do deer heads so they will all fit in my 40 gallon aquariums.  You can find aquariums cheap on craigslist sometimes.
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cook taxidermy
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« Reply #9 on: February 08, 2012, 03:55:24 AM »

ok thanks for info i really would like to have big custom box that you mentioned  cause i plan on doing big skulls thats why i decided to build one just trying to figure how to do it thanks~cook
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Toxic
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« Reply #10 on: February 08, 2012, 04:44:35 AM »

You can stop them climbing the sides with foil backed tape. the epoxy resin will keep them from chewing through. whats this glass broad (board) your talking about ? it may work to make a barrier for the bugs but it needs to have very small tolerance seams.
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cook taxidermy
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« Reply #11 on: February 08, 2012, 04:59:40 AM »

sorry i ment glass board its like what they have in butcher shop walls its bout a 1/4 inch think non wood sheet kinda like a plastic thats whats on the bottom of the box in the picture i posted i thought about putting it on all four sides and how hard is the epoxy resin to apply never worked with it all the help is greatly appreciated thanks ~Cook
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Alpinist
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« Reply #12 on: February 08, 2012, 05:01:45 AM »

You may also want to insulate the box to make it more efficient to heat. Here's an old post with some ideas that might help: http://www.taxidermy.net/forum/index.php/topic,96307.0.html
One thing I would avoid from that post is the screen on the top of the bug box. I think many mite infestations are caused by mites dropping off of bugs that have landed on top screens. I always vent my bug boxes on the sides. I also triple screen them with a layer of noseeum netting sandwiched between two layers of aluminum screen. (Determined bugs can chew through fiberglass screen.)

IMO, it's much easier to use a chest freezer than to build a beetle box. You can probably get a big old broken chest freezer on Craigslist for free. Put in a ceramic reptile heater and thermostat. Cut holes in the sides for adjustable vents. If it gets hot and humid where you live you will also a need to install a small exhaust fan. Total part should cost less than $75. Here are some links for freezer mods and other beetle enclosures:
http://www.taxidermy.net/forum/index.php/topic,233386.0.html
http://www.taxidermy.net/forum/index.php/topic,60043.0.html
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cook taxidermy
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« Reply #13 on: February 08, 2012, 07:02:53 AM »

You can stop them climbing the sides with foil backed tape. the epoxy resin will keep them from chewing through. whats this glass broad (board) your talking about ? it may work to make a barrier for the bugs but it needs to have very small tolerance seams.
the glass board is like a vinyl board thats about 1/4 thick thanks~cook
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cook taxidermy
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« Reply #14 on: February 08, 2012, 07:06:01 AM »

You may also want to insulate the box to make it more efficient to heat. Here's an old post with some ideas that might help: http://www.taxidermy.net/forum/index.php/topic,96307.0.html
One thing I would avoid from that post is the screen on the top of the bug box. I think many mite infestations are caused by mites dropping off of bugs that have landed on top screens. I always vent my bug boxes on the sides. I also triple screen them with a layer of noseeum netting sandwiched between two layers of aluminum screen. (Determined bugs can chew through fiberglass screen.)

IMO, it's much easier to use a chest freezer than to build a beetle box. You can probably get a big old broken chest freezer on Craigslist for free. Put in a ceramic reptile heater and thermostat. Cut holes in the sides for adjustable vents. If it gets hot and humid where you live you will also a need to install a small exhaust fan. Total part should cost less than $75. Here are some links for freezer mods and other beetle enclosures:
http://www.taxidermy.net/forum/index.php/topic,233386.0.html
http://www.taxidermy.net/forum/index.php/topic,60043.0.html
thanks for all of the info i wish i had chest type freezer but ive been looking for one for the last couple months and havent had any luck finding one thats why i decided to make one or build one any other advice is greatly appreciated~Cook
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