WING"TIPS" #12 artificial head attachment
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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Beginners, Training & Tutorials  |  Tutorials  |  Topic: WING"TIPS" #12 artificial head attachment « previous next »
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Author Topic: WING"TIPS" #12 artificial head attachment  (Read 16972 times)
wingman
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« on: May 04, 2007, 11:41:18 AM »

Hello!, I took several pics of how I grind and attach artificial heads so I thought I'd post them up while I had a bit of time. I use AH "thats short for artificial heads :)'' on all my waterfowl but use the real skulls on all others here's how I prefer to attach them to my excelsior neck. I rigged up a grinding/station where I ran a shop vac through the edge of my countertop, it;s attached to a foot pedal rheostat so when I run the grinder the vacuum automatically kicks on also. Just grind away and all the dust ends up in the vac instead of all over you and the shop. Anyway I grind out the nasal cavity with a fine bit then change to a kutzall bit and I dremel the back of the skull area to accept my neck. Remember to always make your neck about 3/4 of an inch longer to fit into the back of the AH. I also grind out the entire preset eye area just because I can't stand being limited in where or how I set the eye for expression etc, PLUS doing this allows me to pin the eye if desired. The pics below are from the Canada I used in Wingtips 11 I chose to not pre-paint the head as its' basically ''black against black'' BUT I do pre-paint most all other AH before mounting.The pics basically explain the rest by themselves I do use hot glue to attach the head with great results but bondo certainally works well also. GOOD LUCK
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wingman
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« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2007, 11:43:49 AM »

And heres the final three!
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Darrell
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« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2007, 11:47:31 AM »

Nice job very clean union.  I enjoy your wing tips.
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ludvik
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« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2007, 02:34:12 PM »

thx for sharing wingman :)

ludvik
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hambone
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« Reply #4 on: May 04, 2007, 03:23:42 PM »

Wing Man I look forward to your tips I find them very helpful I was wondering if you will be doing something on carding the wings ?
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Cuts75
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« Reply #5 on: May 04, 2007, 03:36:07 PM »

Hey Wingman, Nice photos. Do you like to install the eyes before or after you pull the skin over. I also noticed the black tape on the neck. I haven't used it on my necks but I've noticed it is hard to taxi the skin when you use calking. I know now that the tape would be a good way to go. Haven't done a goose yet but have a couple guys hitting me up. That heavy support wire you use is it the soft annealed stuff?  Thanks, Pat
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robertf
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« Reply #6 on: May 04, 2007, 03:37:20 PM »

wingman, i take it you can get a really severe bend in the neck at the head? like in you white winged scoter for example and not have anything pull apart? robert
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wingman
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« Reply #7 on: May 04, 2007, 04:38:27 PM »

Pat, I install the eyes after I pull the skin over MOST times but not always personal preference The support wire is best to use non annealed as it's stiffer and you want that support. Robert.  Usually I have my pose in mind before I attach the head to the neck on standing birds you want to dremel some of the ''gulular'' are away so the neck can properly bend into postion, BUT when properly attached with hot glue you can change the attitude of the head quite a bit without pulling or splitting away from the neck/head junction. Carding the wings would be an easy one to post sometime as it;s somthing done weekly for sure, Good Luck
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SteveP
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« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2007, 07:10:52 AM »

Thanks again WingMan. As always, I'm very much appreciative of your help and dedication to making us all better bird taxidermists. I can see now that I haven't been doing enough modeling with my "AH's".

Steve
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Jhawk
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« Reply #9 on: May 05, 2007, 10:00:11 AM »

Wingman,
Thanks for your great posts! Your efforts are really appreciated.
Maybe you have answered this before, but why don't you use AH on all birds where they are available?

Thanks again
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wingman
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« Reply #10 on: May 06, 2007, 12:34:15 AM »

Jkawk, I use the AH's on all waterfowl mainly because of shrinkage BUT also to make fleshing easier AN inverted neck/head say on a goose is much easier to wheel than one that isn't. Also the pre-painting is big to me, On say pheasants grouse etc where I do not use cast heads there is little to no shrinkage and I can usually invert the neck and head completely, NOT to mention I  used a cast head on a pheasant once and swore I would never go through all the hassles involved again.In the time involved in properly skinning and re-attaching a pheasant AH I think I could get an entire bird mounted with the real head. Personal preference is the real answer I guess, I like to keep it real as long as it looks fleshy and alive in the end product. With waterfowl unless you do a lot of rebuilding they look shrunken and shriveled but with a pheasant or a hawk the main ''bill/beak stays good with maybe minor re-sculpting on cere's etc.Thats it!
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kirkp
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« Reply #11 on: May 06, 2007, 02:57:24 PM »

Wingman,

A couple of questions for you.

What brand of head is that?  Also, I see that you grind out the eye which I assume is to allow flexibility in locating the eye?

Thanks, Kirk
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Gscaup
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« Reply #12 on: May 06, 2007, 03:31:33 PM »

HEY guys...just a little something extra to add...if your neck wire pokes out the end of the neck and through a hole drilled in the head,your attachment is much stronger...give it a try.
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wingman
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« Reply #13 on: May 06, 2007, 10:40:27 PM »

Kirk, I make most of my heads myself BUT I think that particular head was a caruthers head, His new heads are very nice.
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                 Philippians 4:13
bon
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« Reply #14 on: May 07, 2007, 08:08:50 AM »

Wingman, you are "DA Man" Your willingness to share your knowledge and experience is very gracious.
I have been doing bird taxi as a hobby since "95" and just recently started me-own business. You along with many others on this site have made this transition for me much easier and allot more fun.
Keep up the great "tips"

thx Bo--->
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