Detatchable Antlers on a shoulder mount Moose
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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Beginners, Training & Tutorials  |  Tutorials  |  Topic: Detatchable Antlers on a shoulder mount Moose « previous next »
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huntersdream
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« on: December 10, 2012, 09:13:16 AM »

need help with the best way to mount detatchable antlers on a shoulder mount Moose??  I found in the McKenzie catalog 38 page 641 ( shed conectors) part number  Vscmo. The moose I am needing to have the anlers removable has a 55 in spread and will not fit through a standard door opening.I have not ever needed to do this before so I am in need of help on the best method. any help would be greatly appreciated thanks and happy holidays.   Hunters dream
« Last Edit: October 02, 2013, 11:41:48 AM by Ken Edwards » Logged
jkmitch
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« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2012, 09:24:28 AM »

McKenzie sells detachable antler kits...I make my own I go to lowers and buy square tubing ,then go to a hardware store and get a piece of key stock that will,slide inside snug. You can do a search on here and find a tutorial on it. Just make sure that the bondo or what ever you use to secure the tubing and the stock it completely cured before younputmthe antler on or it will twist from the weight of the antler.  Been there done that
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dihard
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« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2012, 12:06:10 PM »

i start by drilling a large hole threw the skull .this allows me to aline a smaller drill bit straight in the antler then i cut the antlers off and drill further if needed .then use shed connectors ..on my most recent moose i drill the holes but never cut the antler and got lucky the mount  fit threw my door ..having the antlers already drilled will be easy to make detachable latter on ..i was thinking of drilling 2 holes and using round bar one small and one big one for strength and one to ensure proper alignment ..
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huntersdream
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« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2012, 12:13:22 PM »

thats a great idea!!  thank you !   I like the idea of both holes to ensure the antlers are were they should be .  thanks
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jkmitch
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« Reply #4 on: December 10, 2012, 12:22:40 PM »

Two  bars probably be better there is a lot of weight there. And they want to twist.
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dihard
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« Reply #5 on: December 10, 2012, 12:47:59 PM »

it will be hard to have both holes at the same angle so keep one bar short so it will slide off easy.. you guys might laugh at me but i might drill a 1/8in hole on the top back side of the antler (you will never see it ) for alignment kinda marked it in picture of shed connectors
« Last Edit: December 10, 2012, 12:59:15 PM by dihard » Logged
Hoytman
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« Reply #6 on: December 10, 2012, 03:15:25 PM »

Drill a small hole as pictured from inside skull cap up into antler.. keep increasing bit size.. On a moose I go roughly 8 inches or so up into the horn and use a 5/8" bit

Mix up 2 part cast all sold from research.. I coat the 1/2" key stock with a release agent or vasoline.. Pour the resin into the hole.. insert square key.. Leave until hard.. Flip over and do the other side.. (I drill both sides first).. Once the other side is done I leave em for 24 hours so its fully cured.. use vise grips to remove the Key...

Sawsal and cut right at the antler base.. you have a square hole and a square hole.. LOL..

When I mount the skull cap, I put the Long side of the key stock in the skull cap, Bondo and secure everything to the form leaving the square key sticking out of the skull cap the correct length.. once mounted.. insert the antler on the key.. isnt going anywhere..
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Lone Wolf AK
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« Reply #7 on: December 10, 2012, 05:02:53 PM »

My technique is very similar to Jesse's (Hoytman).

I'll try to attach a series of pix that explain it.

First I drill a pilot hole into each antler from the underside of the skull cap, then use a spade bit to enlarge it for the square stock sleeve.
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Lone Wolf AK
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« Reply #8 on: December 10, 2012, 05:07:26 PM »

Make sure you follow the axis of the antler so the bit doesn't come too close to the outside of the antler and create a thin spot.  Next, I use a sawzall or file to notch the inside of the hole to serve as an additional guarantee against possible unwanted keyway rotation later.  Once the keyway sleeve is inserted in a bondo/fiberglass resin mix, it will not spin.
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Lone Wolf AK
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« Reply #9 on: December 10, 2012, 05:10:45 PM »

This shows the notches in the hole.  I also score the edges of the sleeves so they will be secure in the bondo/fiberglass mix as well.  Tape the ends of the hollow sleeves so they won't fill with bondo/fiberglass when inserted into the antler.
« Last Edit: December 10, 2012, 05:42:02 PM by Lone Wolf AK » Logged
Lone Wolf AK
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« Reply #10 on: December 10, 2012, 05:14:32 PM »

After mixing up a bondo/fiberglass resin mix, I squeeze some down into each hole, then slowly press the sleeves into each antler.  Wipe off the excess that is squeezed out of the hole, then let the mixture fully cure (24 hours is a good time to let sit)
« Last Edit: December 10, 2012, 05:42:41 PM by Lone Wolf AK » Logged
Lone Wolf AK
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« Reply #11 on: December 10, 2012, 05:19:55 PM »

After cured, use a sawzall to cut off each antler.  Since the keyways are permanently attached to the antler BEFORE you cut it off from the skull cap, it is perfectly aligned and there's no guesswork involved in getting the proper angles.

The steel pins slide into the sleeves as shown. It doesn't hurt to put a thin layer of vaseline on the pins to make sure they don't rust and will separate easily when it's time for the client to move.
« Last Edit: December 10, 2012, 05:43:26 PM by Lone Wolf AK » Logged
Lone Wolf AK
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« Reply #12 on: December 10, 2012, 05:25:55 PM »

I then install the skullcap on the form, and build up with Apoxie sculpt and mache. 

I insert the pins the proper distance as shown.
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Lone Wolf AK
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« Reply #13 on: December 10, 2012, 05:28:26 PM »

I mount the moose, and glue the skin around the pedicles so the antler burrs will match perfectly when seated.
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Lone Wolf AK
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« Reply #14 on: December 10, 2012, 05:32:21 PM »

Finished
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