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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Taxidermy Discussion Categories  |  Habitat and Exhibit  |  Topic: Tree tutorial « previous next »
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mvernelson
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« on: May 11, 2007, 11:11:48 AM »

Regarding the previous photos of the tree I posted, its hard to give a breif description of the method because as with anything it takes practice. Duhhh, right! The real secret to trees is the material in which the final texture is created. 90% of the trees I do are textured with a product called Polly-gem or Polli-gem cant remember the exact spelling. This epoxie is actually designed for this type of work. They have several different grades the one used for trees is poly-gem 307. It can be pre colored using powdered pigments. If the tree is indoors I dont bother pre coloring.  The epoxie is mixed with a walnut flour filler to get the desired consistency. Its mixed like bread dough by kneading. I use a Hobart mixer "used in restauraunts" but they are expensive. Depending on the sise of tree I use anything from rebar & lathe down to p.v.c. for armature. Thin walled drain pipe works well because it is easily shaped with a heat gun. You can make cuts or whatever in the p.v.c. and cover them with masking tape because the fiberglass over it is where you get your strength from. The epoxie is spread out about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick depending on your desired effect or tree species. water on your gloves will aid in pre shaping and smoothing with your hands. The final textures are created with large & small brushes, brooms, and most importantly latex embossing skins "bark molds". One has to understand that to acheive quality results you must plan on putting in a little time and charging well for it. There is alot of hand sculpting. It is a sculpture! I will have almost 3 weeks into this particular tree & habitat base. It will be accompanied with one of Phil Soucy's leopards. The cost to the cliente for the tree & basework was a little over 13,000 dollars. Point being is that there is no "fast" way to create a museum qualiy tree, but keep in mind that the satisfaction of your artwork is well worth the time and effort spent.

Mike.
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Keith. C
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« Reply #1 on: May 11, 2007, 04:10:31 PM »

Mike where do you buy the Polli-gem from?
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mvernelson
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« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2007, 08:49:09 AM »

I dont have their number here. Website is www.polygem.com
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AndyO
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« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2007, 10:06:59 AM »

Thanks for taking the time to post this information. It's funny you mention polygem. I have a planned visit to their production facility in West Chicago this coming week. They seem to have great products.

As for the armature, do you coat the steel lathe with fiberglass (or plaster) or do you apply the 307 straight to the lathe? Do you cast the bark separately then apply to tree or do you apply the epoxy to the tree and stamp with the latex mold?

Thanks! Andy
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A person does not become old until their regrets start to take place of their dreams.
mvernelson
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Location: Adirondacks
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« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2007, 10:58:02 AM »

The lathe is covered with at least 2 layers of fiberglass. The epoxie is applied then embossed with the pads. The epoxie is extremely strong but it has weight to it like plaster, so keep your armature light as possible. Forget about plaster and maches when doing trees they are obsolete. You'll never get the detail. You can get free  samples of the epoxie from them. Play around with it especially creating different consistencys. You'll find that creating innerwood, rotten wood, bark, etc may require firmer or softer mixes. Good luck!
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bill@hogheaven
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« Reply #5 on: May 12, 2007, 03:10:02 PM »

Thank you for the valuble information....Bill
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