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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Taxidermy Discussion Categories  |  Deer and Gameheads  |  Topic: Airbrushing deer eyes « previous next »
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KBauman
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« Reply #15 on: October 17, 2006, 10:33:31 PM »

Hey, thanks Steve.  I wonder why that was not listed in the index available from the Breakthrough site?
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mcole
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« Reply #16 on: October 18, 2006, 07:33:02 AM »

KBauman....I don't recall the issue# but Ben did have a article in the breakthrough issue several years back.  I too have Yoxy's article and its a good one also.
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Doug Bridges
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« Reply #17 on: October 18, 2006, 08:16:12 AM »

I start by whiting everything out. Eyes, ears and nose all get white first.

Now before you start to hammer me on this. It is a technique that John Mathews presented in a seminar for the Michigan Taxidermist Association. And it works great! It allows the true color to come out in the paints.

Anyhow. I go from light to dark.
Flesh - on the lip line where the nose pad and the lower lip meet, inner ear and inside of the eye line and tear duct, and inside the nose (sorry I don't know those technical terms).

Light brown - around the nasal openings and nose pad, eyes and dusting in the ears.

A color called Hen Brown (looks like a dirty dull brown - blending around the nose and further out on the eyes and in the tear duct. Again, I dust some on the ears mainly around the edges. This color works great to blend any blemishes in the skin in the brown color hair.

Paynes Grey - Nose pad and lower lip, nicitating membrane and eye line (just to darken,, lite!!)

Warm black - just to dust some on the ears to make them look dirty.

I then use a tooth brush to brush out any over spray and the paint out of the ear hair.
I use water based paint but still use an exhaust fan in my shop.
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Becky P
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« Reply #18 on: October 18, 2006, 09:47:27 AM »

I follow Yox's paint schedule in Breakthrough and adjust as necessary for each deer. I used to use oils, then I switched to airbrushing. I usually use Hydromist, but sometimes Lifetone, whichever one I decide to grab that day.
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JohnW.
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« Reply #19 on: October 18, 2006, 11:40:37 AM »

 I use hydromist paints by lifetone,but the art of painting the deer eye or any critter is not too much-just a hint of colors is where the natural look will be achieved.
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Bill Yox
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« Reply #20 on: October 18, 2006, 03:29:44 PM »

This has been a popular topic since we have had forums to share it on. I do things a bit different then some, but we all seem to arrive at the same end result. First and foremost, make sure the skin arrangement is correct, or no color will look natural. I start by going to a base, like white, then adding a flesh or pink value. Then I go with a light shadow of scale detail black...I know, it sounds backwards, but try it. Then I highlite with black umber, and then, as needed, with a chocolate brown, or transpar brown. I switched to Polytranspar quite a few years back, and my finish work improved dramatically. I prefer lacquers, theyre easier for me to clean the hair. My eye membranes turn out surprisingly light colored, in spite of the dark colors used.
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KBauman
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« Reply #21 on: October 18, 2006, 10:12:41 PM »

I found both articles and read both again as a refresher course.  I must say, I am thankful for taxidermists like Ben and Bill who are always willing to share their award winning knowledge.  Great articles.
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Bobbi Meyer
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« Reply #22 on: October 18, 2006, 10:42:48 PM »

I started out using oil paints and a brush, then decided that I just HAD to get an airbrush, I just knew it would be so much easier!
Well, needless to say, by the time I mix all my paint and set up the airbrush, I can already have both eyes painted with the brush. I do use Hydromist paint though instead of the oil now though since I'm always in a big rush and oil takes to long to dry.
I paint the eyes and nose with the brush, but do still use the airbrush for the inside of the ears since it seems I can't get a realistic look with a brush, and it's much easier to just mist them lightly with varying shades of flesh colored paint Wink
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NickyG
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« Reply #23 on: October 19, 2006, 03:41:25 AM »

I like to use LIFETONE PAINTS, which are available from Mc Kenzie....I use a building up of color (burnt umber) over a base coat of natural flesh....   Best of luck!!
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Nicholas R. Glorioso, Owner of Glorioso Wildlife Mounts, Vermont (802) 733 2590 CELL Professional taxidermist of 12 years.
Jaz
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« Reply #24 on: October 19, 2006, 08:01:34 AM »

I took a 3 day class with Bill and let me say his finish work is amazing!  Spend a few bucks and go see him or at the very least folow his advice and you will see some neat results.
God Bless,Eric
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Bill Bechtol
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« Reply #25 on: October 19, 2006, 06:12:15 PM »

There have been a lot of good suggestions on color schedules posted. I'd like to know when a color is spec'd and then a " add thinner, retarder and clear gloss" At what percentages??
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Jhawk
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« Reply #26 on: October 19, 2006, 11:22:07 PM »

Meder teaches finishing with a brush. With a little practice and remembering, to tint rather than paint, the results are better and it's much easier for me than using an airbrush.
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btaylor70
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« Reply #27 on: November 03, 2006, 11:26:25 AM »

There are several diffrent methods to finish work. I use lacquer, i lay a base coat first natural flesh in the ears, eyes ,tear duct nose pad,inner nose. Then i darken it up with mars red.On the eyes I use rich brown, dark brown,black umber and burnt umber using the wash method folllowed up with a stiff brush to clean up the over spray. Then I use mod podge to texture the nose pad and around the eyes, buff and seal.This method will take some time to master but the results are outstanding and there is the final touch of applying liquid TeX to the eyes,lachrymal crease, bottom lip and you can apply it to the long chin hairs(optional) give this a try it Will make your mounts come a life.
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