Molding and Casting Artificial Bird Heads
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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Beginners, Training & Tutorials  |  Tutorials  |  Topic: Molding and Casting Artificial Bird Heads « previous next »
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Author Topic: Molding and Casting Artificial Bird Heads  (Read 77418 times)
jeremy
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« on: September 12, 2007, 12:39:33 PM »

Good Morning from OR. I thought I would post a primer here on casting heads using bondo. I know some of this is old news to some and a waste of time to others but for those that still have questions this maybee helpfull. I know its a heck of alot cheaper to cast your own heads than to buy them and its kinda fun. Plus if your still using the skull and peanut method, this will be a step up as your are putting the correct anatomy back into the birds skin that came out. Plus the bill detail and longevity is a real plus. a word on casting compounds. I still think something like smoothcasts products are a bit better than Bondo for detail and will use them on open mouth cast due to its ability to run almost like water {SMOOTHCAST 300} is what Ive been using. But bondo seems to work well for commerical mounts. By the way I'm not a expert and am still learning myself but I think this may help some on here. So here goes.



Here are 2 frozen heads {Redhead & Bluebill} with eyes injected with water. Been in the freezer for 5 hours. A note on feezing the head, be sure everything is where you want it. { my first duck head had a crooked lower mandible that I didn't notice until it was too late and molded }, also spray with a release agent on the bill or the silicone can stick and cause issues.



Squirting the silicone on trying to avoid as many air bubbles as possible.



Smooth silicone with a latex glove and dip your fingers in soapy water to keep it from sticking on glove. Work out any trapped air pockets. Use clear for this so you can see through it. Keep it as thin as possible so it will dry quickly.



 Here it is 22 hours later completely dry and ready for the reenforcement coating.

 I may have to pick this up on a 2nd post, sorry.
« Last Edit: January 23, 2009, 03:46:08 PM by jeremy » Logged

jeremy
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« Reply #1 on: September 12, 2007, 12:47:43 PM »

 Ok, I'm back.



 Mix silicone with any color acrylic paint



Move quickly this will set up with in 5-10 mins. at least to the point you cant work it any more. Scoop it on.



Smooth it on with latex glove and soap water. [ Get your minds out of the gutter] :o



Here it is 2 hours later, The silicone sets up that fast with the paint. The head has been removed, the mold washed with hot soapy water,acetone and blown dry with compressed air, Next I like to squirt synlube in it for X-tra releasing ability but its not a must as silicone wont stick to any thing now that is dry, except more fresh silicone
7.photobucket.com/albums/t61/uplanders/100_1921.jpg[/img]

« Last Edit: December 21, 2008, 04:47:55 PM by jeremy » Logged

jeremy
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« Reply #2 on: September 12, 2007, 01:01:58 PM »

Last Post



Next I mix 50/50 bondo/fiberglass resin with both hardeners so it is pourable. The benefits are that it cost 1/3 the price of smooth cast,and no shipping cost as I can get here at any one of 4 auto supply stores. {I hate paying shipping >:(}.Anyways be quick and as I pour it in I am setting the mold on my bench grinder to move the air bubble to the top. Starbucks optional but will help you to move faster ;)





 There it is, I will still need to sand it, grind out the eyes and fill the rough areas. When it looks good you have the option of making a Rtv mold out of this head. That has most of the finished work done on it.



Here is some of the other stuff I been working on. The white casts are smoothcast. The light pink mold is a rtv mold. I just label the molds and weigh the heads so I know the app amount of material to use next time I pour one and minimize wasted compound. I will make rtv molds of birds that I do alot like woodies and mallards and such. I hope this helps some one get the confidence to step it up. Thanks to some of the guys like jknuth, bw,J Parish, my mother and producer for sharing there info to help me achieve this great state of bird consciousness. Jk out
« Last Edit: December 21, 2008, 04:50:20 PM by jeremy » Logged

daniel
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« Reply #3 on: September 12, 2007, 01:06:08 PM »

thanks jeremy but looking at the last pic it is difficult to keep my mind out of the gutter  ;) DANIEL PS ON THE THIRD PIC YOU SAY KEEP IT AS ??? POSSABLE I THINK THERE IS A WORD MISSING THANKS AGAIN  ::) ::)PPS MIGHT TRY A PUFFINS HEAD LOOKS GOOD
« Last Edit: September 12, 2007, 01:16:48 PM by daniel » Logged
jeremy
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« Reply #4 on: September 12, 2007, 01:34:32 PM »

Fixed it Daniel, thanks.
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Moose5222
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« Reply #5 on: September 12, 2007, 02:03:01 PM »

Jeremy,

Very Helpful and easy to understand...thanks for the pics!  I love the $ saving tips as well.... ;D
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Jknuth
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« Reply #6 on: September 12, 2007, 02:10:20 PM »

Fantastic! Thanks for doing tho photo essay.
I am glad It is working good for you. It appears your success rate is up there as well :D
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Nil sa saol seo ach ceo, Is ni bheimid beo, ach seal beag gearr.

List of available blanks
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BeckyBird
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« Reply #7 on: September 12, 2007, 08:03:04 PM »

Awesome post! I too am tired of the lousy peanut-head method! And I am too cheap to purchase artificial heads, so making my own heads is going to be the answer. What a great tutorial.
P.S. Thanks for the good laugh!
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SteveP
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« Reply #8 on: September 12, 2007, 08:24:06 PM »

Yes, Thanks Jeremy! I've had the stuff sitting here waiting for me to get up the nerve. I'm one step closer. ::)
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"What other people think of me is none of my business."
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jeremy
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« Reply #9 on: September 12, 2007, 08:28:33 PM »

Your welcome all, lord know Ive gleaned alot from this site.
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rnviper3
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« Reply #10 on: September 12, 2007, 08:36:52 PM »

thank you Jeremy.  i too have been wanting to try making my own heads for fish, but haven't had time to go catch my own.  i wont experiment on customer work.  i guess ill have to find time to suffer getting out to catch some.  woe is me.
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wigeon whacker
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« Reply #11 on: September 12, 2007, 09:02:46 PM »

 really love to do that, my question is do you need to inject that eyes if you took them out could you mold it like that? and have them already out so you could just put the eyes in there?
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jeremy
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« Reply #12 on: September 12, 2007, 10:20:59 PM »

Ethan you could go that route and it should work out. If you fill your eyes when you freeze it and then mold it you can then dremel out eye sockets, but before I do this I take my small dremel bit and make a slight horizontal and vertical refernce line on the skull for both sides of the eyes, so when it goes into the rtv mold your eye sockets are molded in with slight eye reference lines. But like I said Im not the expert so give it a try you might like it and all it will cost is 1.00 worth of silicone.
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wigeon whacker
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« Reply #13 on: September 12, 2007, 10:24:39 PM »

thanks  ;)
id love to do this i cant spend all my money on those artificial heads anymore
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bw
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« Reply #14 on: September 13, 2007, 09:49:50 AM »

you have come a long way jeremy.  when you first brought this up several weeks back...we told you how easy it really was.  even though its intimidating at first.....and now look at you.

that was also a grand effort on your part to take everything that you have learned from weeks of post from all of us and forming it all into a tutorial complete with pictures for everyone else that is scared to try it.  now they can see what is really involved.  it wont be long and all the suppliers will be wondering why they cant sell cast duck heads for $10 a piece anymore.
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