tanning with krowtann - using fleshing machine & bench grinder
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Author Topic: tanning with krowtann - using fleshing machine & bench grinder  (Read 27080 times)
oldterryr
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« on: December 20, 2007, 02:44:16 PM »

 ;D ;D

i have had so many people pm me about this exact questions that i am posting it for everyone (especially beginners ) - sorry if it bores you or goes against what you believe -  ;D ;D ;D
this example is for a shoulder mount deer but could just as easilly be a pine marten cause i do everything the same no matter what the animal - we are assuming i have already caped the skull and taken carcass measurements which are 7 x 20(right behind ears) but have done nothing else - no pre salting necessary

here goes:
1) turn ears - no attempt is made to get to the very edges - i probably turn to about 3/8" still on edge
2) cut off chunks of meat on ear bases
3) turn lips all the way - if there is a big chunk of meat you can get to cut it off
4) split septum and take off big chunks of cartilage
5) turn nostrils as far as possible - most of this i do later with bench grinder
6) if there are obvious chunks of meat on face (especially corners of mouth) take them off
7) i dont do anything to nose pad yet
8) i dont turn eyelids until after tanning
9) take off big chunks of meat from all over skin
10) mix up krowtann per instructions - most deer capes take 1 1/2 to 2 gallons
11) let set in kt mixture for 3-4 days - i tan mine in an unheated garage - you can leave in mixture forever - agitate every day so that there are no folds where tan does not reach - i just physically pick up skin and let it back down in - i do not hold it down with milk jugs - tan will leach in to areas at top of liquid
12) tanning is complete now that 3-4 days has gone by
13) rinse in clean water
14) mix up 3-4 gallons of clean water and dump in 3-4 ounces of bakin soda all at once - this is not following kt instructions
15) let set for 30 minutes
16) take out of neutralizing solution and wash in soapy water with whatever detergent you have on hand - i use dawn or arm and hammer
17) rerinse in clear water
18) hang to drip dry of spin water out if you have a washing machine
19) flesh hide with fleshing machine as far forward as possible - i can normally go to almost back of nose
20) thin antler bases and y cut or you wont be able to push a needle thru them
21) i pay special attention to thinning neck area cause this is where any problem getting the form to fit will be
22) i have already ordered a form by this time and i order the exact carcass size cause i know i will be able to get that size back
      a) if form wont fit i will reshave neck area
      b) oil skin overnite
      c) i never had one this wouldn't cure and a,b,c happens about 1 out of 20 mounts so its no big deal
23) i continue to use fleshing machine of face but have reset depth to very shallow and work very slow
24) shave off big chunks around eyes with fleshing machine
25) i am now going to bench grinder coarse wheel - i do not use wire wheel
26) holding lips tightly between my fingers i 'shave' flesh off - more like it just rolls ahead of wheel
27) i continue with wheel and do nostrils and nose pad proper
28) at some point in time i use a scalpel to finish up nostrils - i trim nostrils where hair stops
29) thin around eyes and tear duct with wheel - i put my hand behind so i can feel if i am applying too much pressure
30) split eyelids and take out fatty deposits - this is a must and i have seen more than one taxidermist leave these in
31) double check everything and make sure it is thin enough
32) turn ears to the very edges - i use a sharp knife (not scalpel) and my fingers to do this - i check that they are turned to edges by turning them right side out and running a darning needle along inside edge - it is a quick check and will show you if there is more turning to be done
33) rough up ear cartilage and clean with lacuqer thinner
34) mix up angel hair bondo and fill ear - shape ear and make sure edges are thin - as bondo starts to kick gently tap edges with hammer to thin them even further
35) sew up any holes you made or bullets
36) mount deer in your chosen fashion

hope this helps - if i have left out a step I AM SURE SOMEONE WILL TELL ME
« Last Edit: April 19, 2008, 07:01:52 PM by oldterryr » Logged

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BMan40
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« Reply #1 on: December 21, 2007, 12:30:11 AM »

Thanks for taking the time to write that up.
Are you saying you use the grinding wheel (rock) instead of the wirewheel for fleshing?
I dont have a flesher and was going to use the grinder but I had understood others to use the wire side to thin the cape......

Brian
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oldterryr
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« Reply #2 on: December 21, 2007, 09:54:24 AM »

i hardly ever use the wirewheel - if you are using the wirewheel you must wear eye protection EVERY TIME - the coars wheel takes a while to get used to and i still burn holes occassionally - just takes some time to learn like anything else - fleshing wheel learning curve is long if you havent got someone standing beside you to show how its done - always wear hand protection when using fleshing machine
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oldterryr
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« Reply #3 on: December 21, 2007, 11:14:50 AM »

i dont have time to baby-sit the neutralizing step like instructions say and i got where i just eyeball the amount of baking soda - i finally just started measuring via the swag (sized by wild a$$ guess) method and it has worked for about 3-4 years - dont think i'll change - for those wondering how long you can leave skins in kt - i just mounted a fox that that has been in kt for 3 years - kinda dried out and salt covered but neutralized and it is good as new
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snd
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« Reply #4 on: December 21, 2007, 05:35:55 PM »

In your instructions you don't salt, is salting  necessary.I don't and  wondering if I'm doing something wrong by not? I also shave the hide before I preseve, I use dry preservative before mount.
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oldterryr
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« Reply #5 on: December 21, 2007, 07:59:09 PM »

title of thread is tanning with krowtann - no salting necessary
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snd
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« Reply #6 on: December 21, 2007, 08:24:46 PM »

Sorry,great post, I'm going to give it a try. Just learning though,hope to get good results.Thanks
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Tenbears
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« Reply #7 on: December 23, 2007, 04:49:43 AM »

U DA MAN Terry?
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rock hunter
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« Reply #8 on: December 23, 2007, 09:32:09 AM »

I have both deer in  Kro right know, Two days left to tan. My ? will it rehydrate little patches that seem real hard. Like edges and patches on the forhead.
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oldterryr
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« Reply #9 on: December 23, 2007, 10:55:05 AM »

probably - else thin it with grinder on wheel b4 mounting
« Last Edit: December 23, 2007, 02:15:58 PM by oldterryr » Logged

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oldshaver
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« Reply #10 on: December 23, 2007, 06:57:55 PM »

Terry, I cant help but like ya, but, do you realise, your procedure, took at least 31 steps, until the ready to mount stage? You don't know it, but you have now become the spokes person for sending your skins out, to be tanned.

1. cape it, and freeze it. Let a fleshing service do all the splitting etc.
2. the flesher's, give the skin to the tannery, and it goes through the tanning process.
3.You get the skin back, and mount it!

You have actually lost money, if your time is worth anything at all. Your giving your time away, to save $15.00 to $20.00 dollars?

Your logic is flawed, and is not saving you any money, by tanning at home. The only thing gained here, is a quick turnaround time, for your mounts. The largest Taxidermist outfits in the US, realised this a long time ago. Their time is worth more, than trying to save a few bucks, by tanning skins in shop.

I appreciate your loyalty, to your methods, but they just don't add up.
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oldterryr
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« Reply #11 on: December 23, 2007, 07:28:15 PM »

i noticed that after i posted it but "pigs will fly gracefully" b4 i trust anyone (actually i know one but his turnaround is horrid) to do what i know i can control - if you allow any tannery to control your destiny you will get what you deserve -thats my story and i'm sticking to it - i would like to believe there is a good tannery out there like you are talking about - funny thing is i HAVE NEVER SEEN it mentioned in the tanning section - maybe one does exist...........but it is probably in OZ

this post was never meant as an argument starter or ender - i just got tired of typing the same thing out over and over and this post is linked from  my website so i dont have to do it again - you and i will never agree on this but i do respect your opinion on it
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oldshaver
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« Reply #12 on: December 23, 2007, 07:38:43 PM »

I still want to shake your hand Terry! I believe, you are a man of your convictions, weather they are wrong or right! Every member of most tannerys, can do anything you can do, but better, since they specialize in their areas. Turn around time is greatest, with the best product.
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oldterryr
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« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2008, 04:40:33 PM »

oldshaver its a good thing i didnt put up lutanf instructions - i might have used up all the bandwidth the site has
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Riverdale Taxidermy
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« Reply #14 on: January 15, 2008, 06:17:01 PM »

used some of your tips. Lots of help. Thank you.
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