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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Taxidermy Discussion Categories  |  Deer and Gameheads  |  Topic: Hide Paste « previous next »
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Grueby
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« on: November 04, 2006, 06:36:25 PM »

 Im just wondering what everyone else uses?
   With Epo grip epoxie turning to rock if ya dont use it all Im thinking of changeing.
  Any suggestiongs?,
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mr.T aka mr. friendly
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« Reply #1 on: November 04, 2006, 07:32:15 PM »

buckeye supream forever.
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Greg Waite
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« Reply #2 on: November 04, 2006, 07:44:46 PM »

I like the McKenzies Paste, it gives more working time than Buckeye.
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AndyO
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« Reply #3 on: November 04, 2006, 09:08:58 PM »

I like the McKenzies Paste, it gives more working time than Buckeye.

How much working time (on average) are you getting Greg? Was thinking about trying the McKenzie brand.
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Matt
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« Reply #4 on: November 04, 2006, 10:04:22 PM »

Buckeye Supreme is the way to go. Won't sag on you like epo-grip, no matter how thick or thin you apply.
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Bubbas
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« Reply #5 on: November 04, 2006, 10:10:50 PM »

We use the WASCO hide paste. Works well doesnt dry out in bucket and we get good working time.
Kim
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Dwayne & Kim Collins
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« Reply #6 on: November 04, 2006, 10:21:09 PM »

Buckeye Supreme gets my vote.
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bw
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« Reply #7 on: November 04, 2006, 10:28:19 PM »

The powdered Paste you buy from McKenzie.  Its a dextrin based glue.
If your cape fits the form right...you will have no drumming.

I think the new catalog has it listed for $25 for 25 pounds.   I get a deer per pound.  So you can do the math.  

Ive used Buckeye Supreme too.   And it worked great.  But not any better than the Dextrin.  I could get 10 or 11 deer out of a gallon of that stuff.  Havent priced it in a while but it seems like its about $35 a gallon.

So I can pay approx. $1 per deer or $3.50 per deer.  If the results are the same........Ill stick to the Dextrin
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hunterray2002
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« Reply #8 on: November 05, 2006, 11:33:07 AM »

I'm another BUCKEYESUPREME diehard fan.   
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hunterray2002
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« Reply #9 on: November 06, 2006, 03:06:37 AM »

Buckeye supreme just started using it and will probably never change now.  I have found that I no longer have to pin.  IT'S AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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paul e
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« Reply #10 on: November 06, 2006, 07:56:32 AM »

well epo epoxy is all i use
ive never had a problem with it getting hard
i keep the lids clean
and i store in plastic bags with the lids secure
ive used all the waterbase stuff
imo epo epoxy is the step forward not the step backwards
i mix it in steps and never look back
have a blessed day
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using stop-rot up front makes everything else go better
and somewhere off in the distance a deer grunted
George Roof
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« Reply #11 on: November 06, 2006, 08:14:49 AM »

DEXTRIN?  Lord help us. There's still someone out there using flour and water.  I'm glad to hear that it's cheap, but it's cheap in more ways than costs. 

For those of you who don't know or haven't heard this diatribe before, dextrin was all there was once. It is made from wheat flour usually and mixed with warm water to form a paste.  You could make it thick enough and go ahead and make bread out of it if you'd wanted.  With the old paper forms, it worked sufficiently as the water soaked into the paper and allowed the glue to form some type of colloidal bond.  You got plenty of work time as the moisture was trapped between the hide and the form and only the wicking of the moisture through the form into the hollow center allowed it to dry out.  Since the hide dried from the outside in, this allowed what measly bond there was to hold the hide in place.  Still carding, pinning, and nailing were not only common, they were mandatory.  With the advent of fiberglass forms, it was quickly learned that dextrin wasn't going to cut it.  Foam forms are much the same.  If you open any old form where dextrin was used, you're likely going to find the green mildew that formed between the skin and form as the wheat flour makes a great Petri dish for finding cures to diseases.  I wouldn't use that crap again if they gave it away.

Epo-Grip Epoxy is the only glue capable of holding dry preserved hides to forms.  If you're using tanned hides and you don't use enough epoxy to eliminate the problems Grueby describes, either order smaller quantities or try their water based adhesive that goes on MUCH thinner than the other water based pastes and gives you a great lead time on drying.
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Jumbo
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« Reply #12 on: November 06, 2006, 12:21:07 PM »

And what happens if you don't use hide paste?  I've never used hide paste and haven't had any trouble so far.
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George Roof
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« Reply #13 on: November 06, 2006, 01:04:12 PM »

Jumbo, you've had problems, you just failed to recognize them.  Hide paste allows you to form detail that is impossible otherwise,  The hide "drums" across any crack or crevice in a form if not held down by a good hide paste.
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If the truth offends you, then by all means, avoid it.
jumbo
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« Reply #14 on: November 06, 2006, 02:47:37 PM »

I beg to differ George.  I used dp and then stapled/pinned the hide down in all of the little crevices until it was dry.  And they held.  I got a 91 at state competition with the only one I've entered in a competition.  Oh Yeah!
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