Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial

[michael p.]

I remember a while back there was some discussion on reattaching cut in half Elk forms. I figured I would post how I do it, not saying it is the wrong way or the right way, but it works fine for me & takes all of 15 minutes. I know it's a lot of pictures, but just wanted to make sure I covered all bases.

As I said, this may not be somebodys right way, but I have NEVER had a problem doing it this way & it is pretty much stupid proof



I start by taking my form & placing heavy paint dots all around





I then align & set the top onto the bottom & pull off which gives me a template for paddling out all my holes.







I then take a paddle bit & drill holes in each of the dot's I have made & then take an air compressor & clean out the residue thoroughly









I then take TWO 1/2" X 36" THREADED rod, sharpen one end on the grinder (notice bottom point) and check for depth & alignmenth on the side of the form. This gives me the idea of which angle to run it.



I then use the paddle bit to drill two counter sink holes in the back part of the skull plate



Then load the first THREADED rod into one of the drills (I know, I look like a dork sooooo be nice no need to remind me )





I then mix up about 3/4 can of BONDO & spread it on both sides of the forn & getting it fully into as many of the holes as possible, after spreading the BONDO, I allign the form & stick together. At this time I also put 4-6 temporary screws in to hold it together









At this time, I take the two 1/2" X 36" THREADED rods & proceed to drill them in starting at the head where I had also drilled the two counter sink holes. I run them in as deep as possible & if you had only stuck approximately 3/4" of the rod into your drill, it will counter sink the rod along with the head of the drill into the two previous holes you had drilled.

The reason for the THREADED rods & sharpening of one end is that they will self tap through the foam creating a VERY strong hold.











Both of your rods will become automatically counter sunk with out hammering or tapping in if you follow this procedure. This will allow not only non-interference with your Antler skull plate setting.





Onceyou have completed this procedure, allow the form to cure for an hour or two & then mount your form to the stand. I always like an engine stand cause tyou can roll it out of the way but yet still rotate the form side to side if you must. Be sure & attach one lag bolt firmly & then make sure both you stand & form at the eyes are level.





Then go ahead & attach the rest of your lag bolts





I have read on here before how some have suggested carving out & running 2x4's among other things into an Elks neck for support. To me that is crazy. I have also read that Bondo is useless in the process....well to each there own. Like I said I am not here to say whether I am right or wrong but I have NEVER had ANY problems reattaching a cut Elk form this way.....NEVER. Not the day it left the shop or years later down the road & I have mounted some damn big elk. Now before anybody starts calling me a gasoline ass or anything else by saying this method is not structurally sound to stand up to the stress of a large elk horns weight, I have not only mounted the Elk horns on the form, but also strapped a 90% full 5 gallon bucket of hide paste onto the head as well adding easily 60+ more pounds of weight.






Like I said earlier, this may not be the best way out there, but it works really great for me & is completely done in less than 15 minutes.

[crankin]

nice job Michael, very similar to how i do mine also, i just run my threaded rods in thru the back. you didn't try out that cast lip for elk??

[bassin]

Hey Michael thanks for taking time showing tutorial

[Rickey logan]

I do the same without the rod, Looks stronger than it was before it was cut!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[cattrax]

That's a pretty good bull for Texas

[krollh]

I've done a couple the same way except I didn't go through the skull plate, I think because of the form had a hard turn in it. Next time I'll try for the skull plate.

Thanks for taking the time to share. Great job explaining the details.

[olky]

thanks michaelp good job.

[CHT]

I hope that's going to be a pedestal , because I don't think the antlers will clear the wall ??
How deep do you drill the holes on the blue dots?  5-6 inches?

[shaneb]

Nice job michael, im sure this will really help lots of people, newbies and experienced.

[Michael Butler, a.k.a. artwildcreate]

LOL.. In the one pic, you look like the pedaphile on Prisonbreak..The one that lost his hand!.. J/K.. Thx for sharing..

Where did that bull come from? It is a frikkin toad!

[George Roof]

Michael, michael, michael.  What would you say if I showed you a method that only took 20 minutes, used NO DAMNED BONDO, no thread stock, no aligning with dots, nada?

With heavy antlered game, the simplest way to do them it with a 2x4 and foam.  With a chisel, you cut a hole in each piece about 12 inches deep.  Oversize it all you'd like. Then slightly dish out the mating surfaces of the manikin.  Create at least a half inch "dish" so that the subsequent steps will work. Set the 2x4 cut to length in the bottom and fit the top half down till the splits are flush.  Then with your spade bit, you drill a one inch hole on the top centerline of your manikin at EACH END of your chiseled out slot.  Now, install the 2x4 and align the manikin.  With the 6 inch grabber screws sold by WASCO,  alternate from side to side every 3 or 4 inches all the way around the manikin.  Make sure you cast lines are aligned properly.  Mix up 6 ounces of 2 part foam (3 oz of "A", and 3 ox of "B").  Mix with a bent wire until the foam is tapioca colored completely and quickly pour half in one hole and the other half in the other.   Pick up the manikin and tip it on the nose and then on the base so that the foam gets into the dished out area as well as down both sides of the 2x4.  Then set it down with the sprue holes up.  You'll know very quickly when it starts to kick off and are likely to have a geyser of foam.  Still, the 2x4 is now imbedded into the manikin and the dished out area has been effectively WELDED the two halves together.  This is the cheapest, least labor intesive, most structurally sound method of reattaching any foam manikin.  It's how the "old" guys always did it before Bondo became the cure all for the gasoline asses of the industry. (In a back issue of Breakthrough, you need to see how they reattached an ELEPHANT lifesize manikin.  Hint:  no Bondo)

[shaneb]

 I do it like mikeP, without the rods,Drill some holes, mix up some bondo, Done. It takes approx 2 minutes, and I could ride the form like a mechanical bull that sucker aint coming apart!

[michael p.]

I love your reply George....I was hoping sooooo bad you would use the term "Gasoline asses" LOL

I've used the foam method & this, this is half the work & 1/10th the MESS with just as much stength IMO although Georges way does work great!!

[Mike108]

Where are those bright white shoes Mike? Did you get in trouble last time you wore them to do a tutorial???

[michael p.]

Where are those bright white shoes Mike? Did you get in trouble last time you wore them to do a tutorial???

It's too damn wet & muddy around here to be wearing the K-swiss to work LMAO