Drying a tanned, case-skinned raccoon

[WillinghamsTaxidermy]

 I've tanned my case-skinned raccoon (with McKenzie Tan) and it is now hanging up to dry. The instructions for McKenzie Tan say to let the tan absorb into the skin for 4-5 hours, then mount or freeze to mount later. However, I'm not planning on mounting this coon, its a wall-hanging skin. What is the best way to dry it completely after the 4-5 hours of letting the tan absorb in?

I've tried before to just leave skins hanging or lay them flat on a shelf to dry. This works fine when the hides are flat-skinned, but I've never had much luck doing this with cased skins, as they stay too wet inside for too long and I've had problems with mold growth and occasionally hair slippage.  If I try to dry them flesh-side out, the hair inside stays too moist, and again, I get mold or slippage.

So, what is the best way to quickly dry a cased skin? any help would be greatly appreciated!

[russch]

I am far from an expert, but let me tell you what I did recently.   I had a case skinned Otter.  Same scenario as what you describe, fur facing in.  As the hide side dried, the fur side remained wet.  After about two days of drying, I started to stretch the skin and break it.  I put a small dowel (pencil) through the eye holes and attached a string to this to hang the hide tail down.  At this point the face area was also partly dry so the face did not pull from being hung in this way.  Cant hang this way right away or the face will stretch.

Our portable dehumidifier has a fan mode which blows straight up.  I placed the dehumidifier under the case skinned Otter and blew the air straight up and through the inside of the Otter.  The inside was totally dry in about 8 hours.  I continued to periodically stretch the hide as it dried.

This seemed to work well.  Any fan moving air through the inside should work fine I would think.