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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Beginners, Training & Tutorials  |  Tutorials  |  Topic: Whitetail Deer Eye Setting and Eyelid Sculpting « previous next »
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Author Topic: Whitetail Deer Eye Setting and Eyelid Sculpting  (Read 23956 times)
mntduks-tx
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« on: March 19, 2008, 01:16:11 AM »

i spent time resizing the pics, but i was having computer user issues, so i do apologize for the pic sizes and also please excuse the photography alot of the pics are blurry, but i think you can get the idea of what i am trying to achieve with my claywork for eyes.


the first step is to level the form vertically. pic 1

second step is to level the form horizontally.  i do this by placing a level in front of the eyes lining up the front corner.  pic 2

third step is to place a level horizontal line across the eye orbit.  this is for two reasons.  reason one, it helps line up the eye pupil, and secondly, the line at the back of the orbit is used as an idicator to keep me from dropping my top eyelid too low.  pics 3, 4 and 5.

















after my eye is set into the eye orbit, i roll a piece of clay into a blunt point about the size of a pen, and apply it to the front corner of the eye and laying it to the back of the eye, right on the edge of the white scleral band and iris.   i then smooth the clay out onto the form.  pics 6,7 and 8.










i roll out another blunt roll of clay for the upper lid about the size of a pen.  i lay it on the top eyelid by pressing and blending the clay into the front of the eye and following the eye up and then angle it back towards the back of the eye making sure to go below the pencil line.  i then pinch the excess clay off at the back of the eye and  blend the clay to the form into the brow area.  pics 9, 10, 11 and 12













the final steps are to check reference , kenneth bauman had an excellent series in the last breakthrough, and use a brush to sculpt the final shape you want for the expression you are trying to achieve.  pics 13, 14 and 15.










there are so many variances in this business and this is just one of many.  hopefully it will help.  any other questions let me know and i will try to help if i can.

andrew
« Last Edit: April 22, 2008, 05:38:49 PM by Ken Edwards » Logged
visions of wildlife taxid
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« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2008, 01:45:27 AM »

i am with 4000 on this one, that is the same way i do it, good post, Russ
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Lisa M
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« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2008, 01:48:37 AM »

I nominated it for the soon to be coming "Tutorial Category" mtn.  Thanks for taking the time.  ;)
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Monkey Man
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« Reply #3 on: March 19, 2008, 09:41:38 AM »

Nice Tutorial.  Thanks.
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Jon
coreyponder
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« Reply #4 on: March 19, 2008, 09:03:35 PM »

thank you so much for posting that.  this should help out a lot
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Corey Ponder
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« Reply #5 on: March 19, 2008, 11:37:56 PM »

Good tutorial thank you.
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deerstuffer
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« Reply #6 on: March 28, 2008, 10:25:08 AM »

What kind of clay are you using here?
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michael p.
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« Reply #7 on: March 28, 2008, 10:46:03 AM »

Great job mntduks-tx!!!

What kind of clay are you using here?

Looks like he is using "critter clay"
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Rick Carter
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« Reply #8 on: March 28, 2008, 03:08:06 PM »

Good job. nice and simple.
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mntduks-tx
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« Reply #9 on: March 28, 2008, 06:55:39 PM »

coreyponder... i havent forgotten to send you a pic of tucking and "cutting" in the eyelid,  i have been swamped.


the clay is critter clay, it is dry enough to sculpt with water and a brush without getting too wet and distorted.


thanks for the comments.

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rice194
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« Reply #10 on: March 29, 2008, 09:56:20 AM »

mntduks-tx which issue of breakthrough are you talking about.
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GaryDubya
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« Reply #11 on: March 29, 2008, 02:59:55 PM »

Just seeing this is worth the price of admission!!Thanks
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George Roof
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« Reply #12 on: March 30, 2008, 10:55:20 AM »

Maybe I'm in left field on this one.  I noticed  this "level" bit.  I stopped "levelling my forms years ago.  To level a form, you must accept that the sculptor and the manikin manufacturer, had it right. DON'T!  Next, you have to accept that if the backboard is "level" then the antler cap will be.  DON'T! Then "levelling" the eyes. If you've assumed all those other things, why wouldn't the eye sockets be level?  And to install the eyes with a level still requires you to "eyeball" whether they match your "level line".  Why not just trust your eyeballs anyway?  Stand out front of the nose of the manikin.  LOOK AT THE EYES.  Are they looking at you?  Or are they looking where the rotation of them intends?  No level line is going to help you there.  IN MY OPINION, this is a practice we started when we bought into the gimmicks of the foam forms. Our "art form" depends on the eye pleasing qualities so why not use the eye to insure it's right.  (If you have any doubts, mount a Dall sheep or a game farm goat.  Those "level" eyes simply never seem to cut it.)
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mntduks-tx
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« Reply #13 on: March 30, 2008, 11:22:53 AM »

rice194....  i have that issue of breakthrough at my office.  i will look at it monday and post or send you a pm.

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coreyponder
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« Reply #14 on: March 30, 2008, 01:40:12 PM »

coreyponder... i havent forgotten to send you a pic of tucking and "cutting" in the eyelid,  i have been swamped.


the clay is critter clay, it is dry enough to sculpt with water and a brush without getting too wet and distorted.


thanks for the comments.


no problem
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Corey Ponder
weavercreektaxidermy
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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Beginners, Training & Tutorials  |  Tutorials  |  Topic: Whitetail Deer Eye Setting and Eyelid Sculpting « previous next »
 



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