WING"TIPS" # 31 Real head artificial ''method''

[wingman]

Hello! Here is another wingtip on another method of using a real skull in conjunction with artificial head methods, I found myself with a hen squaw head removed and then I realized I did not have an artificial bill SOOOO I used the real head, Actually I have used this method before on hybrids etc where I wanted to use the real head BUT I hate not being able to invert the entire neck skin, sewing up the head incision etc etc. Anyway I know there were other options but this method takes me about the same amount of time as it takes me to pour a head,dremel it out etc so there is not much difference in time, Here is the process. Remove the head,completely remove all the flesh, wash and dry,Then I mix up a bit of sculptall fill the bills sinus area,rebuild the entire head leaving the brain cavity area open, Later I will dremel out the eye sockets to accept clay. One other thing I do is to lay a fine edge of superglue to the skin edge of the bill as this seems to ''stiffen'' up the  the skin edge which  gets glued to without shrinkage later on. On this particular head it sat overnight and I painted it the next day before mounting, All thats left is to proceed as normal as if using an artificial head. I do insert a small amount of cotton into the nasal area until dry to reduce shrinkage and when mounting I clay up the head over the skull . The following photos show some of the method, GOOD LUCK!

[wingman]

more

[DropTine]

Thanks Wingman. Can you do the same with a Pheasant. Mark

[SteveP]

Thanks again Eugene! Excellent birds again. The pictures are great. I'm always afraid to remove that much bone. I don't know why, once the two part compound and the clay hardens, it isn't going anywhere. Plus, getting that inner bone material out of the way will only speed up the skull cleaning. Did you use anything to fill wrinkles in the bill after drying, or was it not noticable?

Keep 'em coming,
Steve

[kevin scott]

Thanks Wingman ,I really enjoy your posts, always very informative !

[wingman]

Mark, I think it would work on a pheasant BUT I dont really see the need as pheasant bills shrink very little AND the head can be inverted without an incision I prefer the real beak myself on everything but waterfowl

[Tereza Revis]

Wow, Eugene to pull something like that, you trully know bird anatomy.  Thanks for sharing.
Tereza

[Jeff Hunter]

I don't suppose you have posted anything on your mounting process from start to finish have you? I'm just starting out with taxidermy, but I think your birds look like a million!

[wingman]

Featherhorn, LOL If you go back through ALL the 31 wingtips I think the entire process ''of sorts'' is there Always open for suggestions as time allows.

[bzb_1]

Wingman.  Just wanted to say thanks.  I am a rookie and your posts are always very very helpful.  People like you make this a great site.  Thanks again.  Ever thought of offering one on one training you seem like you really enjoy helping others out?

[Jubela]

very informative, and the birds turned out great!

[cast_n_blast]

Thanks again.  I just started a woody that is a immature.  the head is a lot smaller than my cast, so I was going to have to cast the head,  I think I will try this method.

[mimes]

I have started this method on a comp. duck. Thanks for the post.

[rainbound]

Thanks Wingman. That is a great technique and certainly a nice product. Nice action pose and very clean work. Did you make the rock? Cheers

[Jaffery]

Hi Wingman, I have done some waterfowl with almost the same technique. The area of the skin that is glued back with the head is always loose and requires alot of adjustments. Thus I cant get nice and clean look. What should be the problem