How much hide paste & why.
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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Beginners, Training & Tutorials  |  Tutorials  |  Topic: How much hide paste & why. « previous next »
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Author Topic: How much hide paste & why.  (Read 27691 times)
michael p.
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« on: April 01, 2008, 12:35:21 AM »

I have seen a lot of people saying how they do not use hide paste, yada, yada, yada ::)   In my opinion that is STUPID, do not listen to these reccomendations!!!   I am not the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I even know that by not using a good hide paste you are setting yourself up for total & complete failure as a Taxidermist..  Your hide paste is a basic principle to use so that in the drying process or near future you do not have drumming through the entire deer. Also while drying whether you are using a tanned, DP, Krowtan, McKenzie tan, what ever kind of cape YOU WILL endure some amount of shrinkage.

I'm not saying mine is the best way or the right way, but it works ;)  I put my glue on after I put my cape on, I pull the head down over the face and apply the glue, slide it back over & sew it up. I then ROLL the hide up on the mannikin & apply the rest of the glue. I do this because I am a very messy person & would have glue all over the hair if I personally tried to put it on over the glue. Also I tuck my lips & roughly set my eyes & nose and then bag it till the next day. Once again, that is just me, the bagging is not a reccomendation. I just find the hide paste, skin & clay all more suitable to my tastes for setting the next day.

I cover the entire form with tacky hide paste, this allows me to taxi my skin & leave it. No pins, no needles, no screenwire, . I let the paste take the place of all pins, needles & screen wire.  This is just an example of how I use my hide paste, but the point I am trying to drive home is all these pics were taken with in an hour of each other. If you notice the detail in the muscle, that will still be there tomorrow when I show up to work....once again notice....no pins, no needles, no screenwire holding these definitions in place, only hide paste.













If I have to adjust anything on my mount in the morning, I will not need to remove any or all pins, needles & screen wire to do it, I will simply TAXI any skin needed in place & it will stay.  The only pin I have stuck in is where the bullet hole was.
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Outwoods Taxidermy
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« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2008, 03:16:13 AM »

yes no need for all them pins when using a good glue, is that buckeye your using or your own stuff you make up... :)
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Bobbi Meyer
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« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2008, 06:52:15 AM »

wow that hide is really pink?
Your shop looks about like mine, only you have a lot more room.
I do it just like you, keeps the hide paste off the hair.
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turkeyjim
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« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2008, 07:27:30 AM »

Michael
What do you use for a tann. That cape looks raw. Never seen a cape that pink after tanning. I'm not doubting your abilities, or process, I've seen your postings, your work looks great. just curious.
Jim
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Curt
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« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2008, 08:20:27 AM »

Yep that is the method I have used for years. Works great. Thanks for the post Michael I know a lot of people will find that very helpful...
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michael p.
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« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2008, 09:50:15 AM »

That is a cape that has been dry preserved, & then Stop Rotted till wet & then frozen. Nobody knock it till they try it ;)  It in some experiments I've done has kept shrinkage to a minimum in using D.P. with smallet deer such as this.
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Spent my whole life lookin' back
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 Doin' what was expected of me
 Kick my shoes off so they can't trace me
 Leave no forwarding address
 Before they all drive me crazy
 And I leave 'em all in a bloody mess
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huntswnm
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« Reply #6 on: April 01, 2008, 02:10:03 PM »

Michael,
So, is this a short or long incision?  I am trying to imagine the process, without extra pictures :)  So you put hide on dry manikin, pull face skin up as far as possible and apply paste then pull skin back down into place.  Are the antlers already attached, or do you attach them after the skin is in place?  I would assume the antler but clay is put it before sewing?  Then you are sewing your incision, whether it is long or short, and then pulling the back skin up towards antlers as far as possible?  As a tube?....applying paste then rolling skin back over manikin and securing?
Sorry, this question pretty much turned into a whole process rather than just applying paste.

I appreciate you taking time to show this though.  I have been looking for a new way to apply the paste, I am slow at sewing so it always seems that the past near the back of the form, especially the arm pit areas, are almost dry before I get the sewing done.  I usually have to go back and add some fresh past before I attach the hide to the back of the form.

Jeff
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Kenny
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« Reply #7 on: April 01, 2008, 06:06:34 PM »

Just curious as to which hide paste you use?
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Marathon Freak
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« Reply #8 on: April 01, 2008, 06:24:19 PM »

michael p have you ever used the super paste on earlinners
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michael p.
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« Reply #9 on: April 01, 2008, 06:35:17 PM »

I put my hide on the mannikin and then pull the head back down over the nose, re attach my horns (which have been pre set) and do all my eye clay work & put on my hide paste & then pull the short y back up over the nose. I then sew it up, rough set my eyes, ears nose, etc., bag it & thenstart on the rest.


I use clay based wall paper paste (dynamyte111) mixed with Joe Coombs dry hide paste as a mixture for my glue. I have never tried it with ear liners as I am a proud Bondo man ;)
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Spent my whole life lookin' back
 Not lookin' ahead to see
 Trying to keep my feet on track
 Doin' what was expected of me
 Kick my shoes off so they can't trace me
 Leave no forwarding address
 Before they all drive me crazy
 And I leave 'em all in a bloody mess
C.C.
Jerry H
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« Reply #10 on: April 01, 2008, 06:41:35 PM »

Michael seeing that deer with a bag over it's face reminds me of ---------- oh nevermind
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fatrooster77
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« Reply #11 on: April 01, 2008, 07:36:03 PM »

Michael, I am sorry to be a pain because I really appreciate the help...  I am having a hard time visualizing the face, some others have asked the same question.  Might you be willing to take a couple pictures of that area the next time that you do one, a little more step by step? :-\  I am assuming that your ears are all done and that you would be setting the ear butts but...
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michael p.
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« Reply #12 on: April 01, 2008, 07:57:37 PM »

Michael, I am sorry to be a pain because I really appreciate the help...  I am having a hard time visualizing the face, some others have asked the same question.  Might you be willing to take a couple pictures of that area the next time that you do one, a little more step by step? :-\  I am assuming that your ears are all done and that you would be setting the ear butts but...

Not a problem, I'll be leaving town til next week, but have a couple to do next Monday where I can show you.
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Spent my whole life lookin' back
 Not lookin' ahead to see
 Trying to keep my feet on track
 Doin' what was expected of me
 Kick my shoes off so they can't trace me
 Leave no forwarding address
 Before they all drive me crazy
 And I leave 'em all in a bloody mess
C.C.
brushwolf
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« Reply #13 on: May 22, 2008, 09:15:39 PM »

i got some buckeye hide paste ( 1 quart for tanned skins and 1 quart for dp skins) and a 5 pound bag of McKenzie dry hide paste .... so just wondering can i use the dry hide past for dp skins
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Becky P
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« Reply #14 on: May 22, 2008, 09:27:57 PM »

I do pretty much the same. Just pull the cape on just like you would any other time, then I flip it all upside down, roll the hide back, put paste on form, pull the hide back over it, line up brisket/armpit skin, staple, turn right side up, set antlers (I don't pre-set, I check the fit and set them now), then I use a paint brush to put the hide paste on the face going through the incision and through the mouth. I have my eyes set and basic clay work done before I ever put the cape on the form.
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