Broken Antler Main Beam Repair Tutorial
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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Beginners, Training & Tutorials  |  Tutorials  |  Topic: Broken Antler Main Beam Repair Tutorial « previous next »
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Author Topic: Broken Antler Main Beam Repair Tutorial  (Read 33898 times)
Uncle Harley
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« on: April 13, 2008, 12:06:03 AM »

Here is a list of the items I used to repair this rack

1)   apoxie sculpt
2)   1/4in. threaded rod
3) 5 min. Epoxy
4) toothpick

Paints used:

All paints are Folk Art acrylic paint except seal coat

Med grey
burn umber
yellow orchre

Krylon #1311

Ok here is what I started with a broken main beam and busted off brow tine.

You can see that they don't quite fit together, probably from drying after broken.  This is ok

Drill both halves and epoxy the rod into the half that is less busted up.

While that is setting up I will use the 5 min epoxy again and to re-attach the browtine. As you can see this doesn't quite fit right either, just get it as close as you can.

Once this has set up I will mix additional epoxy and place it down in the crack with a tootpick and make sure I fill all the voids

Front view once epoxied.

Back view once epoxied notice the red circle there is a little piece that isn't flush with the rest of the antler

Go ahead and grind that flush with a dremel

Next, I will build a little damn in the side and bottom of the main crack so epoxy won't run out.

Then I will fill voild with additional 5 min epoxy just like the brow tine.

Next, rough your apoxie sculpt in and fether the edges real good with a wet thumb.  Take a tooth pick or finger nail and put deep grooves into your epoxie sculpt try to follow the grooves naturally found in the horn, and try to make it random.

After the epoxy sculpt sets up about 45 min.  come back and soften the grooves with a stiff brush wetted with water.  At this time you can also work on fethering you edges even futher.      You are looking for a soft look at this point.

Go watch tv for a couple of hours.

Ok now we are ready to paint.

For my base coat I mix  white, med grey and camel  acrylic paint by Folk Art.  Start by adding grey to the camel and then a little wite at a time untill you get fairly close to the lightest color you will find.  Sometimes you need a little more camel, sometimes you need a little more grey. 

I thin this paint with rubbing alchol and run it through my airbrush.  I pretty much white out the  repair and fade it onto the un repaired part  (  notice red circle)

Now make the unrepaired side to match.   ( I don't fight blending paint untill it matches perfectly, so this is key to getting it to look "natural" )

sorry about the white out from the flash

At this point any flaws in your epoxy sculpt will stick out like a sore thumb.  To correct wash paint off with a damp rag and hot water and once dry touch up any needed epoxy work.   If satisfied seal with Krylon #1311

Do this by applying 1 to 2 very thin coats.   Allow at least 30 min to for the krylon to dry before moving on to the next step

Ok now we are ready for some color.

For the top coat  I use  raw umber, medium grey and a touch of yellow orchre.  Some times you might want to add a touch of clay red or something, but in this case I did not.

This color get applied by thinning in rubbing alchol in a cup and brushing it on building up the color .

see there isn't much paint in the cup  ( about 1/2 in of rubbing alchol)

Now notice the side of the cup this is how thin you want it.  It's hard to tell from the pic, but you will be able to see tiny specs of paint and when brushed on and the alchol allowed to evaporate will add nice random color.   

Here is a close up of the repair.  ( little washed out from the flash)

and Finally here is the a shot of the entire rack.

Now here is the important step...... Walk this case I'm going to bed.  Tommorow I will look at it again to make sure I am satisfied.   If I am still satisfied in the morning I will seal this color in with another VERY thin 1-2 coats of the Krylon #1311

I hope everyone has enjoyed this post and I hope some of you may have learned something with it.  It has been fun buy I'm going to bed!!

« Last Edit: April 15, 2008, 08:33:03 AM by Uncle Harley » Logged

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« Reply #1 on: April 13, 2008, 12:23:43 AM »


Russ of V.O.W.T
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my Ken Edwards moment

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« Reply #2 on: April 13, 2008, 12:25:21 AM »

good post harley, alot of people will be able to use this and benefit from it, Russ


Visions of Wildlife Taxidermy Studio
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« Reply #3 on: April 13, 2008, 11:14:07 AM »

Muchos gracias, good tutorial Uncle Harley .  8).



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« Reply #4 on: April 13, 2008, 11:52:00 AM »

Nice job, thanks for the info, very helpful.:)

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deer city time

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« Reply #5 on: April 13, 2008, 12:22:42 PM »


i wana hunt
Ron Elkins Taxidermy
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« Reply #6 on: April 13, 2008, 12:52:56 PM »

Nice job Harley!

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Shootem Up Taxidermy
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« Reply #7 on: April 13, 2008, 01:22:28 PM »

yea thanks harley they look great
its been good doing buisness with you i cant wait to mount them thanks agian

Leslie J.
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« Reply #8 on: April 13, 2008, 01:27:31 PM »

Thanks for posting this Harley.  I've only repaired broken tips before, never something so major and this will help for future repairs :)

Beaumont taxidermy
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« Reply #9 on: April 13, 2008, 01:37:15 PM »

thanks big guy

When you finally figure out that you do not need to figure it all out, you are finally getting your $hit together.....

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George Roof
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« Reply #10 on: April 13, 2008, 02:34:02 PM »

NICE JOB!, Harley.

If the truth offends you, then by all means, avoid it.
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« Reply #11 on: April 13, 2008, 03:49:36 PM »

Great post! Love these tutorials...really helpful!
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« Reply #12 on: April 13, 2008, 04:38:42 PM »

good post

Whitetailed Visions, LLC.

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« Reply #13 on: April 13, 2008, 04:44:21 PM »

Good post! Thanks! This will help me fix the busted replica rack that I have.

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« Reply #14 on: April 13, 2008, 07:46:11 PM »

Harley; that is really amazing and time consuming, but finished up very good for the condition it was in before.
          I had one of my whitetail deer heads mounted from a shop in Montana 1993 and the taxidermist fixed one of
          the horns that was broken off. He used another deers horn and set it with a screw and waxed it over.
          Now that I have seen your method Harley, I would think this buck I have here would look better to redo
          it's bad point/horn as shown in red circle. At the time, I thought it was great, but now it is quite noticeable.
          There are so many good ideas coming from this forum on ways to make things look much better. Taxidermist
           are defenitely getting better these days I think doing all they can to please so many hunters etc.


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