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1
Tutorials / Critter clay
« Last post by part time on August 22, 2018, 11:47:01 PM »
What is the best way to keep critter clay from setting up. and can it be softened after getting hard? Thanks.
2
Tutorials / getting the smell out of a tanned deer hide.
« Last post by Tom Mayer on January 28, 2018, 10:33:48 PM »
One of my freezers went belly up on me with out me noticing. I have four freezers so I don't get into them all every week. I have a beautiful Mule Deer cape already tanned and prepped that was in the freezer. Everything else is lost. My question is how do I get the smell out of the Mule deer cape? Can I get the smell out?
3
Bird Taxidermy / Re: Let's Never Flesh Another Peacock Train
« Last post by joeym on January 22, 2018, 07:21:04 AM »
Awesome tutorial!   Very creative, and a beautiful mount!   Thanks for sharing!
4
Fish Taxidermy / Re: DNR visit
« Last post by joeym on January 22, 2018, 07:14:52 AM »
Never had a visit, and don't expect one today, since they are probably sitting at home with the gov't shutdown.
5
Fish Taxidermy / DNR visit
« Last post by Monty Artrip on January 22, 2018, 02:40:30 AM »
Well, like most of us I've had a few checks over the last 25 years and wasn't too surprised that my number came up last week. I have to say that the two officers that showed up were exceptionally nice and professional. I've never really had a problem with the visits in the past but was pleasantly surprised. Anybody have experiences good or bad??
6
Bird Taxidermy / Let's Never Flesh Another Peacock Train
« Last post by allis on January 22, 2018, 01:43:02 AM »
So, I'm sure someone out there has been doing this technique or something like it, but I had to do a Peacock rather quickly recently and also wanted to improve on cleanliness. In my experience fleshing trains on Peacocks, the skin inside the back pallet and the feather follicles are so inundated with fat that they can never be truly rid of it. So, I decided to de-construct it.

This method took me about an hour and a half. 

First, remove the back pallet and the actual tail. (If you haven't done a Peacock before, I refer you to this tutorial on doing a removable train. It has photos of the areas I'm talking about. http://www.taxidermy.net/forum/index.php/topic,247326.0.html)

Now, some geometrey:
The train is a grid of feathers roughly 13-17 rows and about 10 columns that window each other. Each feather follicle enters the skin on a pallet of fat. The pallet looks kind of like this graphic I made here:


Start from the bottom row and use a sharpened wire to thread through the quills below the skin line.



Now, cut the above fatty quill / follicle off. Yes, you'll loose a tad bit of length, but the pest prevention and time save is worth it.



Label them by number and which side is the underside or top of feather. Hang them:


Do the same threading method for the tail. Then, cut a piece of wire mesh to create a tail base and cover in bondo.



Insert tail exactly where it would go on the body. This (and the gap from the back feathers) will help you figure out a size for your back-pallet mesh. You could also trace it first, however the pose of your peacock can effect that. Dont attach the mesh yet, just make sure the shape and the size are accurate.



Hang the wire mesh up and start attaching the wires with the feathers on them. You can window the feathers some as you go, but they will slide on the wire. This is good because it makes the train still 'groomable'. You could bondo the feather butts like the tail if you want to create a very specific train look that is permanent.



Attach to your peacock with wire, screws or even foam/bondo. I leave my trains removable by setting with upholstery pins hidden throughout.


My client ended up wanting the peacock on a higher base at the last minute. I was able to completely change the train very easily because it was just wire and mesh. Took me 5 minutes.


I hope this is helpful. Again,  I just kind of thought about it based on necessity. I'll may make some slight changes, but I couldnt be more pleased with the time I saved fleshing & drying and the cleanliness.

-allis






7
The Taxidermy Industry / Re: Shark tank question
« Last post by Cole on January 22, 2018, 12:30:19 AM »
It's a bad example because taxidermy isn't really an invest-able business. That being said, I agree most taxidermists wouldn't even know where to begin in putting together the proposal.
8
Bird Taxidermy / Re: gift birds SCAUP
« Last post by dwall on January 22, 2018, 12:18:17 AM »
Are they drakes and are they lessers or greaters?
9
Wanted / looking for tanned taxidermy quality coyote
« Last post by goldenboy on January 21, 2018, 11:58:06 PM »
looking for a fully tanned taxidermy quality coyote. holes in the leather are no issue, weak/damaged leather is no problem either. lips and eyelids must be split, ears turned, and preferably a thick winter coat. can be wet or dry tanned, I have a budget of around $150-170 but i can go over. Post will be updated as closed once I find something. can email at [email protected]
10
Tanning / Re: formic / safety acid
« Last post by Bruce Rittel on January 21, 2018, 10:36:57 PM »
Go to your local Grocery Store and buy some cheap White Vinegar (it's an Acid) and add it to your Formic Acid solution mix. Get 2 or 3 Gallons of it. If anything it will bring your mixture down to at least a 2.5 pH (used by itself for a Pickle) - and protect your pickled skins. It contains Acetic Acid. Adding the Safety Acid, if you have already ordered it - will work but again at the higher price for it, you will have add quite a bit - the White Vinegar is cheap but you still might have to add quite a bit to your Formic Acid Solution already mixed to reach the required pH of your Pickle. A 2.0 pH or less.
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