Taxidermy.Net Forum

Beginners, Training & Tutorials => Tutorials => Topic started by: michael p. on January 23, 2008, 03:12:29 AM

Title: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: michael p. on January 23, 2008, 03:12:29 AM
I remember a while back there was some discussion on reattaching cut in half Elk forms. I figured I would post how I do it, not saying it is the wrong way or the right way, but it works fine for me & takes all of 15 minutes. I know it's a lot of pictures, but just wanted to make sure I covered all bases.

As I said, this may not be somebodys right way, but I have NEVER had a problem doing it this way & it is pretty much stupid proof



I start by taking my form & placing heavy paint dots all around

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4693.jpg)

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4696.jpg)

I then align & set the top onto the bottom & pull off which gives me a template for paddling out all my holes.

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4697.jpg)

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4698.jpg)

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4699.jpg)

I then take a paddle bit & drill holes in each of the dot's I have made & then take an air compressor & clean out the residue thoroughly

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4700.jpg)

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4701.jpg)

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4702.jpg)

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4703.jpg)

I then take TWO 1/2" X 36" THREADED rod, sharpen one end on the grinder (notice bottom point) and check for depth & alignmenth on the side of the form. This gives me the idea of which angle to run it.

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4704.jpg)

I then use the paddle bit to drill two counter sink holes in the back part of the skull plate

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4706.jpg)

Then load the first THREADED rod into one of the drills (I know, I look like a dork sooooo be nice ;) no need to remind me :) )

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4707.jpg)

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4708.jpg)

I then mix up about 3/4 can of BONDO & spread it on both sides of the forn & getting it fully into as many of the holes as possible, after spreading the BONDO, I allign the form & stick together. At this time I also put 4-6 temporary screws in to hold it together

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4709.jpg)

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4710.jpg)

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4711.jpg)

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4712.jpg)

At this time, I take the two 1/2" X 36" THREADED rods & proceed to drill them in starting at the head where I had also drilled the two counter sink holes. I run them in as deep as possible & if you had only stuck approximately 3/4" of the rod into your drill, it will counter sink the rod along with the head of the drill into the two previous holes you had drilled.

The reason for the THREADED rods & sharpening of one end is that they will self tap through the foam creating a VERY strong hold.

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4719.jpg)

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4715.jpg)

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4718.jpg)

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4721.jpg)

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4722.jpg)

Both of your rods will become automatically counter sunk with out hammering or tapping in if you follow this procedure. This will allow not only non-interference with your Antler skull plate setting.

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4723.jpg)

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4724.jpg)

Onceyou have completed this procedure, allow the form to cure for an hour or two & then mount your form to the stand. I always like an engine stand cause tyou can roll it out of the way but yet still rotate the form side to side if you must. Be sure & attach one lag bolt firmly & then make sure both you stand & form at the eyes are level.

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4726.jpg)

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4725.jpg)

Then go ahead & attach the rest of your lag bolts

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4728.jpg)



I have read on here before how some have suggested carving out & running 2x4's among other things into an Elks neck for support. To me that is crazy. I have also read that Bondo is useless in the process....well to each there own. Like I said I am not here to say whether I am right or wrong but I have NEVER had ANY problems reattaching a cut Elk form this way.....NEVER. Not the day it left the shop or years later down the road & I have mounted some damn big elk. Now before anybody starts calling me a gasoline ass or anything else by saying this method is not structurally sound to stand up to the stress of a large elk horns weight, I have not only mounted the Elk horns on the form, but also strapped a 90% full 5 gallon bucket of hide paste onto the head as well adding easily 60+ more pounds of weight.

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4732.jpg)

(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/taxidermist_2007/120_4733.jpg)


Like I said earlier, this may not be the best way out there, but it works really great for me & is completely done in less than 15 minutes.









Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: crankin on January 23, 2008, 03:26:19 AM
nice job Michael, very similar to how i do mine also, i just run my threaded rods in thru the back. you didn't try out that cast lip for elk??
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: bassin on January 23, 2008, 04:25:01 AM
Hey Michael thanks for taking time showing tutorial
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: Rickey logan on January 23, 2008, 07:59:46 AM
I do the same without the rod, Looks stronger than it was before it was cut!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: cattrax on January 23, 2008, 08:12:41 AM
That's a pretty good bull for Texas ;)
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: krollh on January 23, 2008, 08:15:13 AM
I've done a couple the same way except I didn't go through the skull plate, I think because of the form had a hard turn in it. Next time I'll try for the skull plate.

Thanks for taking the time to share. Great job explaining the details.
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: olky on January 23, 2008, 09:16:06 AM
thanks michaelp good job.
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: CHT on January 23, 2008, 10:33:56 AM
I hope that's going to be a pedestal , because I don't think the antlers will clear the wall ?????
How deep do you drill the holes on the blue dots?  5-6 inches?
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: shaneb on January 23, 2008, 10:48:58 AM
Nice job michael, im sure this will really help lots of people, newbies and experienced.
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: Michael Butler on January 23, 2008, 11:07:19 AM
LOL.. In the one pic, you look like the pedaphile on Prisonbreak..The one that lost his hand!.. J/K.. Thx for sharing..

Where did that bull come from? It is a frikkin toad!
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: George Roof on January 23, 2008, 11:21:55 AM
Michael, michael, michael.  What would you say if I showed you a method that only took 20 minutes, used NO DAMNED BONDO, no thread stock, no aligning with dots, nada?

With heavy antlered game, the simplest way to do them it with a 2x4 and foam.  With a chisel, you cut a hole in each piece about 12 inches deep.  Oversize it all you'd like. Then slightly dish out the mating surfaces of the manikin.  Create at least a half inch "dish" so that the subsequent steps will work. Set the 2x4 cut to length in the bottom and fit the top half down till the splits are flush.  Then with your spade bit, you drill a one inch hole on the top centerline of your manikin at EACH END of your chiseled out slot.  Now, install the 2x4 and align the manikin.  With the 6 inch grabber screws sold by WASCO,  alternate from side to side every 3 or 4 inches all the way around the manikin.  Make sure you cast lines are aligned properly.  Mix up 6 ounces of 2 part foam (3 oz of "A", and 3 ox of "B").  Mix with a bent wire until the foam is tapioca colored completely and quickly pour half in one hole and the other half in the other.   Pick up the manikin and tip it on the nose and then on the base so that the foam gets into the dished out area as well as down both sides of the 2x4.  Then set it down with the sprue holes up.  You'll know very quickly when it starts to kick off and are likely to have a geyser of foam.  Still, the 2x4 is now imbedded into the manikin and the dished out area has been effectively WELDED the two halves together.  This is the cheapest, least labor intesive, most structurally sound method of reattaching any foam manikin.  It's how the "old" guys always did it before Bondo became the cure all for the gasoline asses of the industry. (In a back issue of Breakthrough, you need to see how they reattached an ELEPHANT lifesize manikin.  Hint:  no Bondo)
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: shaneb on January 23, 2008, 11:32:09 AM
 I do it like mikeP, without the rods,Drill some holes, mix up some bondo, Done. It takes approx 2 minutes, and I could ride the form like a mechanical bull that sucker aint coming apart!
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: michael p. on January 23, 2008, 12:00:11 PM
I love your reply George....I was hoping sooooo bad you would use the term "Gasoline asses" ;D LOL

I've used the foam method & this, this is half the work & 1/10th the MESS with just as much stength IMO although Georges way does work great!!



Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: Mike108 on January 23, 2008, 12:02:57 PM
Where are those bright white shoes Mike? Did you get in trouble last time you wore them to do a tutorial???
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: michael p. on January 23, 2008, 12:29:51 PM
Where are those bright white shoes Mike? Did you get in trouble last time you wore them to do a tutorial???

It's too damn wet & muddy around here to be wearing the K-swiss to work :) LMAO
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: bullwhacker on January 23, 2008, 12:35:15 PM
I do it the same way, but I don't worry about lining up the holes on each side of the cut. I just make a bunch on each side and go from there. Looks really strong the way you do it.
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: Yeager1 on January 23, 2008, 12:38:28 PM
Michael, Post a pic of you and the Lil' Mexican sitting on the elk form and I'll be sold. ;D LOL
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: michael p. on January 23, 2008, 12:41:39 PM
Michael, Post a pic of you and the Lil' Mexican sitting on the elk form and I'll be sold. ;D LOL


Give me till about 9:00P.M. tonight & you got it Perry!!

Well got 2 deer to mount this afternoon......TTYL tonight :)
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: Outwoods Taxidermy on January 23, 2008, 01:37:45 PM
look behind you'' the football is on tv. :)
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: mooser on January 23, 2008, 02:58:27 PM
Good idea but I feel it is an overkill also.  Puncture both sides of the form, Bondo, and screw.  10 min done.  IMO I feel the rod is a waste of time.  When the cape is mounted and dried, that is all the strenght you need.  So far I have not had any bondo seam break.  The have held any antler I have mounted so far.  I have done a few 370-380 bulls, no problem.  Michael P, it's good you did the tuturial, I just think the hole alignment and rods are a little over kill, that's all.  Time is money.
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: shaneb on January 23, 2008, 04:25:44 PM
"Michael, Post a pic of you and the Lil' Mexican sitting on the elk form and I'll be sold.  LOL"

Michael its too bad you dont have any of those bull nutt sacks left for Miranda to wear ontop that form. Then I would be sold too. ;D ;D ;D
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: mimes on January 23, 2008, 04:34:54 PM
I kinda want to see Cutie Pie too......not you mike.....riding the mannikin....it would be pretty cool and show your method off.
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: michael p. on January 23, 2008, 04:39:48 PM
Good idea but I feel it is an overkill also.  Puncture both sides of the form, Bondo, and screw.  10 min done.  IMO I feel the rod is a waste of time.  When the cape is mounted and dried, that is all the strenght you need.  So far I have not had any bondo seam break.  The have held any antler I have mounted so far.  I have done a few 370-380 bulls, no problem.  Michael P, it's good you did the tuturial, I just think the hole alignment and rods are a little over kill, that's all.  Time is money.

I semi agree with you Mooser.....overkil  ::) yeah a litte...maybe ???  ....but the security out weighs that for 5 extra minutes of time. I guess my fear is somebody hanging the elk on a 12-16 foot vaulted ceiling and if it fell due to their negligence it splitting the seam with out the extra support.

The way I feel is this, 5 minutes of extra time=$10, 2 rods=$5, the insurance & security of knowing it will never split under ANY circumstances-PRICELESS

"Michael, Post a pic of you and the Lil' Mexican sitting on the elk form and I'll be sold.  LOL"

Michael its too bad you dont have any of those bull nutt sacks left for Miranda to wear ontop that form. Then I would be sold too. ;D ;D ;D

That could very well be arranged also :) :)

I know the lil'mexican reads this from work, so bay if you are get ready to model tonight......the Taxidermy community is counting on you!!! LMAO


BTW, anybody got any other ideas for the lil'mexican ??? (ooooh this coud get good!! ;D )
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: George Roof on January 23, 2008, 06:14:58 PM
For all of you Bondo fans, you know that epoxy would work WITHOUT all the drilling.  The reason you have to drill is to provide a "tooth" for the Bondo.  If you use a wisk broom and brush all the dust off both pieces, trowel a thin layer of epoxy on both sides of the form, place it together and index it with long screws, it will be much stronger than it was before it was ever cut.  No holes, no Bondo, no 2x4's, no threadstock.  The only time I use threadstock is when I order a lifesize form without rods so that I can alter it and then I imbed the threadstock OR I'm mounting the bighorned sheep of the world and I want to fortify that skinny neck.  Works great for that.
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: CHT on January 23, 2008, 06:26:42 PM
Like a mule kick in the Head    George makes a very good point!!
Geeeze   George your going to make me start hating the bondo fumes to  HA HA


Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: Frank from PAA on January 23, 2008, 06:31:53 PM
Thank you MP for taking the time to share. I use Bondo and the hole method, but I do not match up the holes. Frank
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: michael p. on January 23, 2008, 06:54:33 PM
For all of you Bondo fans, you know that epoxy would work WITHOUT all the drilling.  The reason you have to drill is to provide a "tooth" for the Bondo.  If you use a wisk broom and brush all the dust off both pieces, trowel a thin layer of epoxy on both sides of the form, place it together and index it with long screws, it will be much stronger than it was before it was ever cut.  No holes, no Bondo, no 2x4's, no threadstock.  The only time I use threadstock is when I order a lifesize form without rods so that I can alter it and then I imbed the threadstock OR I'm mounting the bighorned sheep of the world and I want to fortify that skinny neck.  Works great for that.

My dad has/had told me that for years George but i'm very inpatient & bull headed ;)
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: coal39 on January 23, 2008, 07:13:47 PM
Michael it's great that you take the time to show by pictures how you do things. It's a big help for beginners and sometimes old farts to see how you do it. I also do it like that but without the rods. Keep up the good work
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: bullwhacker on January 23, 2008, 07:42:11 PM
I just use the claws on a hammer and knock the heck out of each side to make some holes for the bondo to bite in. I have used the rods and the 2x4 and foam method, but have always used bondo to hold the two halves together prior to doing either the foam or the rods.

I think the difference is the foam is now nearly $100 for the kit and the bondo is about $12 a gallon.
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: George Roof on January 23, 2008, 08:13:29 PM
Now Bullwhacker, it's been an intelligent conversation so far, so lets keep it that way.  Foam runs about $33 for a 2-quart kit while Bondo is $18 for a gallon.  With Bondo, a gallon is a gallon, but with foam 2 quarts end up being about a 3 foot cube of solid foam.  With a 2 quart kit (half a gallon), you have 64 raw fluid ounces.  With about 4 ounces of foam, you can fix the elk, but it's going to take you a good quart of the Bondo to do the same repair.  By using your cost analogy, you'll have to use $4.50 worth of Bondo (OR MORE).  With the foam, you'll use less than $1.50.  Additionally, you'll have "welded" the form together with the same material it's made of while creating a stronger brace inside with the 2x4 (and if you had to buy that, an 8 footer runs about $3 now, so with it cut in 4 pieces, that comes out to 75 cents for the lumber.  Total cost with foam= $2.25 or about half what you spent on Bondo).

Personally, I don't know how any taxidermy shop can exist without having foam on hand as well as Bondo.  I use both often, but I'm still "old school" in putting forms back together.  I know Bondo CAN work.  I just know that foam DOES WORK BETTER.
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: Yeager1 on January 23, 2008, 08:26:25 PM
George are you admitting you have a can of Bondo in your shop? ;D
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: George Roof on January 23, 2008, 08:34:36 PM
No Perry, I don't have a "can of Bondo" in my shop.  I ALWAYS have a CASE of Whitefill Body Filler under the counter.  That's 4 gallons and I use it extensively on making molds, making rocks, and setting antlers on manikins.  I can't imagine not having it around along with a few pounds of cabosil.
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: Rooster on January 23, 2008, 09:45:18 PM
Now michael did you fix your hair up all purdy like just for us lol
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: bullwhacker on January 23, 2008, 10:02:28 PM
I agree both methods work and have done it both ways, but I can do it faster with bondo and a rod. I rough up both sides with the claws on a hammer, and I mean gouge it up good. Then I thin bondo with resin, cover both halves, and screw them together. Once that goes off I screw a rod or two through the form.

I haven't set my wife on the head of one yet, but we'll see how this turns out later.
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: Schmitty on January 24, 2008, 10:09:00 PM
Nice tutorial, sounds like a great method, I used George's method and that worked great too. I am hoping to post a pic of my finshed elk in a couple days
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: rocky don on January 24, 2008, 10:11:38 PM
well at least we know you actually do something in your shop!!!! oh and i love the stoney shirt!!!!!
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: jcrosstaxidermy on January 25, 2008, 10:19:37 PM
I have also mounted some big elk, always just bondoed two halves back together, never had a problem, suppliers dont suggest using rod,  just bondo ----if it works,  it works sems a little much to me--sorry.
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: Jay Parke on January 26, 2008, 04:15:39 PM
I had to try it this morning. I ran the rods through while the bondo was still not set . I really liked the way the rods pulled the two pieces together . It was a lot tighter than the 5" screws could ever get it. Great info. Thanks
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: deerstuffer on March 28, 2008, 10:14:14 AM
Am I mistaken or does the McKenzie catalog just show them putting a thin layer of bondo on both sides and then screw it together?  No drilling, hammers, or rods. It's been a while since I looked at that but that is what I remember anyway.
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: Red stag on March 28, 2008, 10:44:38 AM
Allways used the foam method. Works great. Here in Norway bondo are too expencive, about 20 dollar for 1 kg. Thanks.
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: Rick Carter on March 28, 2008, 03:06:28 PM
Gorilla glue and grabber screws. This usually takes about 5 minutes and costs about $1.50.  Do it today and mount it tomorrow. I do the Mikey P. method if I turn the head or something. I do the G.Roof method If I am out of Gorilla glue. You can have it done in less time than it takes to go to the store and buy the gorilla glue. There have got to be a million ways to do this. PS. That mannikin should have been cut at an angle and not straight across.
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: Jolt on March 28, 2008, 03:39:46 PM
Michael P thanks for taking the time to do this.   I just have one question, maybe I should be asking George... what in heaven's name is a "gasoline ass"?!   ???
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: George Roof on March 28, 2008, 04:21:11 PM
Gasoline asses got their name from an OLD joke.  Two boys working in the yard with a mower when the cat came by.  One boy grabbed the cat and took the gasoline and poured it on the cat's ass.  The cat went wild and ran in circlers around them until finally it fell over.  The other boy was terrified and said, "You killed the cat".  To which the other replied, "Nope, it just ran out of gas."   That's what happens to gasoline asses.  They run in circles and end up falling over without having accomplished anything.  Now you know.
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: lee, tees valley on March 28, 2008, 04:38:27 PM
 ;D :D ;D :D ;D ;)
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: michael p. on March 28, 2008, 07:52:21 PM
Am I mistaken or does the McKenzie catalog just show them putting a thin layer of bondo on both sides and then screw it together?  No drilling, hammers, or rods. It's been a while since I looked at that but that is what I remember anyway.

Yes, and McKenzie also sells a $295 cape stretcher, that doesn't mean that it's the only right way to stretch a cape. :)

PS. That mannikin should have been cut at an angle and not straight across.

Well call Mike Gillis & get on his ass for me LOL  I was pissed when I picked it up anyways, that was one of the reasons I drove over to the wharehouse, I had placed about a $1,200 order & figured I would save shipping & not have to glue the elk form together, but as we saw only one wish came true :)
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: George Roof on March 28, 2008, 07:57:58 PM
You know Michael, that's a great point.  Just as soon as the form comes out of the mold, some gofer runs it through the bandsaw so that it will fit their shipping boxes.  If that's the reason it's done, then why in the hell hasn't some rocket scientist there figured out that they could CAST THE FORM IN TWO SEPARATE PIECES.  I know that Tom Ray's bears come that way so they can be plugged together.  A straight cut isn't nearly as good to work with as one cut on a wedge, but dammit, it seems like they COULD get a big enough band saw to cut completely through the form.  I hate it when the spiral cut it and then snap it apard.  I don't know how you Bondo guys get through that.  It's easier with foam but still seem to have been avoidable.
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: Jolt on March 29, 2008, 01:03:42 PM
Gasoline asses got their name from an OLD joke.  Two boys working in the yard with a mower when the cat came by.  One boy grabbed the cat and took the gasoline and poured it on the cat's ass.  The cat went wild and ran in circlers around them until finally it fell over.  The other boy was terrified and said, "You killed the cat".  To which the other replied, "Nope, it just ran out of gas."   That's what happens to gasoline asses.  They run in circles and end up falling over without having accomplished anything.  Now you know.

LOL!  Thats great!
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: Jerry Huffaker on March 30, 2008, 07:56:30 PM
We've been using straight bondo on everything, Elk, Moose, large lifesize etc.. for 21 yrs and haven't had one single problem.
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: * on March 30, 2008, 07:58:28 PM
I chunk them out and foam them, heck of lot cheaper than bondo and MORE surface area that bonds to each side
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: ed150 on March 30, 2008, 08:00:28 PM
i have always used fiberglass,but the foam sounds like a good idea
Title: Re: Re-attaching cut in half Elk forms tutorial
Post by: Catgear on January 08, 2012, 07:25:29 PM
Thanks for the post, this site is quite a tool!