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31
For Sale / Tanned Whitetail Cape
« Last post by Wilderness Taxidermy(AL) on Today at 03:06:10 PM »
Cape#3401
$100.00
7x17
Pro 1 Tanned
Late December Alabama Cape
Standard Shoulder Cape
32
Beginners / Re: How to get brains out of the nasal cavity
« Last post by 3bears on Today at 02:58:49 PM »
You never mentioned degreasing of any form did you? There is often bits and pieces left in a skull no matter what method used to clean. Those final bits usually get removed or dissolved in the degreasing process.
33
Deer and Gameheads / Re: Sending green capes out for commercial tan?
« Last post by tazzymoto on Today at 02:32:39 PM »
The only thing I ever shipped frozen was turkey heads, and that was always overnite. My salted hides
I will drop off at my tanner.
34
For Sale / Lifesize Desert Bighorn Ram hide **horns not included
« Last post by Taxidermyvik on Today at 02:16:48 PM »
Lifesize Nelson Desert Bighorn ram (horns not included).  Hide is currently frozen raw, must be shipped salted (as required by Nevada Dept of Wildlife).  14.5" bases, scored about 161", taken in late November 2015 in Southern Nevada.  Only photo available is this field photo from client; hide was not originally intended to be sold, hence the lack of photos.  Since hide is raw and frozen, additional pictures will only be taken for serious inquiries only.  Original selling price was $3,100, reduced to $2,200 o.b.o. - buyer pays shipping, not included in sale price.  Please send PM or email admin@wernerfamilytaxidermy.com only. Thank you



35
Deer and Gameheads / Re: Upcoming Deer season
« Last post by tazzymoto on Today at 02:15:30 PM »
I hate tic's, and warm openers.
36
Beginners / Re: How to get brains out of the nasal cavity
« Last post by FiFiAintAPunkName on Today at 02:04:57 PM »
Here are the photos for the post.
37
For Sale / Re: wolf skulls
« Last post by RJ skulls on Today at 01:58:15 PM »
Do you have pictures and what do you think shipping to mn would be? I'd like both of them
38
Beginners / Re: How to get brains out of the nasal cavity
« Last post by FiFiAintAPunkName on Today at 01:53:44 PM »
Thanks everybody for the advice! I really do appreciate it!
So I tried out the air boiling technique mentioned and it seemed like a good idea so I ran with it. It worked mostly, but didn't work all the way.
Also, again, super new, didn't know I could add photos, but maybe this will help give more visualization to my problem I'm stuck on.

So this is the spot I'm trying to get out. I'm not even actually entirely sure if it's brain but smells like the rest of the brain did, and I realize now it's more in the eye socket than the nasal cavity kind of (again, sorry, brand new to this).

The next photo is the same spot from the front, you can see that there is this honeycomb like structure of bone. I can't penetrate it even with a toothpick so I'm unable to scramble it going through that way. You can also see how dark it is on the side with spot compared to the other side that cleared out completely when I first macerated it.

Next photo is from the back of where the brain stem/neck would have been, it's my main opening for looking into the back of the skull. you can see through (sorry it's blurry) to where the dark spot is, especially compared to the symmetrical side that cleared, and you can see that from that side there is another wall of honeycomb like bone so I can't go in and scramble it that way either.

Those were all taken the day before I asked for help on here, and the last photo is after I tried the air boiling technique. You can see that it did work, and some of it dissolved through the honeycomb bone, but there's still a lot of it on either side, and of course the smell is still there since it is still trapped in there. I only did five hours because I didn't want to do any more than that, you can tell from the photos I am no professional and this is my first take and I accidentally damaged it a bit in my original process. And since the air boiling post I saw said doing a skull that was more covered than this I was afraid I was doing something wrong since I couldn't just get that little bit out after a full five hours. After the air boiling, since I don't have a pressure water gun or anything, I just took the jet setting on my hose and tried to wash it out but really to no  avail, it didn't take out anything more than what was taken out in the air boiling.

I'm still dealing with that last little bit stuck in there and the smell, I'm afraid I might have to drill a hole through the eye socket and scrape it out and destroy the honeycomb bone in the process if I can't get it out any other way, and I'm honestly scared to try boiling it again because as I said, I'm obviously no professional and it's my first time and the skull really is damaged.

But really, any more advice would be GREATLY appreciated because the last advice got me this far which is more progress than I was making on my own!
Again, thank you all!
39
Beginners / Re: Tips and Tricks to make your job easier
« Last post by Jkostella on Today at 01:38:20 PM »
Found a way to get the skin on a fish mount to be nice and straight,  I use latex chalk with a very large needle and syringe, either cut or inject the chalk into the  areas that are sunken in before the fish starts to dry.  If you get a lump of chalk just smooth it out under the skin, when the mount dries you will have a clean straight body that will look great!  Also any chalk that oozes out can be wiped with a damp cloth to remove.
The latex will dry and not shrink like fish filler or paper mache.

Love this one as I'm having issues with it!
40
From old posts about muskies (as per DougP) I must say I'm really surprised many/any fishermen are taking the risk of verbal  and possibly even physical assault to keep a musky for a skin mount. Musky C&R extremists have received publicity for "no holds barred"  criticism directed  against fellow fishermen who dare to kill a musky.  Where are the muskies coming from that you are taking in?
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