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Hi! I've browsed the web for badger reference photos and found some, and I've done a search here and read almost every link pertaining to badger that popped up, but I haven't been able to find what I am looking for.

I came across a fresh roadkill badger a week ago and am in the process of de-fleshing him and prepping for maceration (severe skull damage...should be interesting)...in the process, I accidently threw out his baculum with the organs..............I am still mad about that. I will have to find one online, but my question is...where is the approximate location of said baculum in reference to the rest of the skeleton? All the photos I could find were baculum-less...

My apologies if this is somewhere on this forum, after the last 2+ hours of reading "badger", I couldn't come up with anything 

Hi there!! I'm the new girl on the block! I've been reading through the forums for a couple of weeks and I've already learned a ton. I do have a question though:

None of you really talk about doing any hand-work on the bones after maceration/beetles/simmering/whatever-method-you-prefer. I spend a ridiculous amount of time scrubbing each bone (which, with a snake is INCREDIBLY tedious) before I degrease/whiten. Is this because I'm being too impatient and not letting the bones soak long enough? (My usual methods are maceration if I'm not in a hurry, and simmering if I'm in a rush.)

I fear my impatience has also meant that I've cut some corners on degreasing. Might not be letting my bones soak in acetone long enough. I generally only soak for a week.

I realize there's no real way to speed up the bone cleaning process, but it's often very hard to make people understand that I can't turn something around as fast as they'd like. However, this has now gone beyond a hobby and I need to make sure I'm doing it RIGHT - not fast. Both sure would be nice though...

Thanks for posting John.

This has been on my mind for awhile and I finally tried. I have had a great result in dyeing rabbit fur. I used a scrap from an old garment-tanned hide and used the remainder of my black hair dye after I was done putting it on my head. I let it sit for about half an hour, did a shampoo/rinse/condition/rinse and let the hide dry. I fluffed with a hairdryer also. I am thinking that there are many possibilities for dyed pelts in store for me. Here's a pic of the dyed, dry scrap; it measures about 8 inches by five.

A question: do you guys think that it'd have made a more supple hide if I had added an oiling step prior to drying? It is pliable but not exactly just as soft as it had been pre-dye. The tan did not wash out though. I am guessing that it was chrome tanned. Was a typical gift-shoppe rabbit hide.

No problem and thanks.

Yea They have a flathead listed also, but not the size you need. Might call them and see . I deleted those links after I went and reread the sizes you were looking for. Good Luck!!!

Haha its getting late...i was on the lake country website right before i made that post and couldnt find the blue cat for the life of me then you point it out and i dont know how i missed it. Im going to call them next week and ask about the ones they have thanks.

Yes Sir.
Your buddy always
Ty Weaver

I would like to see the pingpong ball trick work for the first pic. I like the brisket on the second deer also.

The float switch is a good precaution. Just be sure it's rated for the amps being drawn by the heater. The switch shown is rated for 15 amps, which should be fine for a 1000 watt bucket heater, but it would burn out with a 2000 watt water heater element.

The packing peanuts look like a good idea too. In another thread someone suggested using heavy duty ping pong balls, but those would need to be cleaned from time to time. The packing peanuts are free and disposable. Be sure you don't include any of the "biodegradable" packing peanuts. Those turn to goo when place in water.