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Fish Taxidermy / Re: In search of a Sea Raven blank
« Last post by Tims on Yesterday at 09:38:37 AM »
coast to coast in CT prob has one.
Tutorials / Two Questions: Lacquer Thinner s & Airbrushes
« Last post by Bluenose Moose on Yesterday at 09:08:50 AM »
Ive got 2 questions and neither are related!!  :o Bet I fooled ya with that title though  8)

First, I use bond ears but I hate using lacquer thinner, its potent.  Is there a way to degrease ears by another way or a product that is not as harsh?

Second, I would like to transition over to water based paints like I used years ago.  Problem is they seem to be gumming up in the air brush, something I didnt ahve a problem with back in the day. 

My theory is that the paint is drying out in the nozzle before it even hits the surface of the animal.  Is there a product that can slow down the drying time long enough for it to stop gumming up the airbrush?

Or perhaps its something to do with the PSIs?

Thanks guys!!
Tanning / Has anyone used the Circular Knife Sharpener?
« Last post by Iowan on Yesterday at 09:05:24 AM »
Just deciding if its worth the $100 investment. 
Any help would be appreciated
Beginners / Re: Thawing a deer head?
« Last post by Bluenose Moose on Yesterday at 08:59:27 AM »
I bought a used fridge.  In my experience, a frozen head will take 3 days in the fridge to thaw enough to skin.

If I need to skin one out within 24 hours for whatever reason, I usually will leave them on the shop floor and turn off the heat for the night, or if its a big animal with lots of meat, I leave it in the unheated basement and check on it every few hours.

I also have a meat hook hanging from the beam over the fleshing table for stubborn capes.  I hook it into the meat of the frozen neck and just start working that skin back.  It can take a while but Id rather work with a partially frozen head and take my time than to rush the job on a fully thawed head and risk slipping.

Ive yet to have any trouble with my capes and our deer are pretty thick furred.

But thats my experience.  ;)
I've done the same as mentioned before.I always take the body out in sections and that seems to help.I've soaked them in alcohol and covered them in salt.Both worked.I use salt the most.The biggest thing is being careful while handling the skin until it's mounted.
For Sale / Zebra and baboon
« Last post by mmtaxi on Yesterday at 08:22:12 AM »
Wet tanned zebra stallion cape and older LS dry tanned baboon (probably not mountable) ..zebra is in excellent shape, big stallion..Baboon is free bee for whoever gets the zebra.. . Text for pics. 814-720-7498 $800 plus 25 shipping
Lifesize Mammals / Lifetone Hide Paste
« Last post by pir^2h on Yesterday at 08:11:27 AM »
Looking for opinions.  My fingers are getting old and tired!

Has anyone used the Lifetone hide paste?  In the description (Research Manikins catalog) they say it  Works on clean unsanded right out of the box polyurethane forms without any kind of manikin prep material.  Just curious what your results were and if the claim was true.  If it iswhat a savings of time of having to scratch/sand forms and all the tedious places on the face! 
For Sale / Re: coyote shoulde/pedistal capes and full life size coyotes also
« Last post by Bob Wendt on Yesterday at 07:56:38 AM »
Bird Taxidermy / Re: Any tricks for fixing this?
« Last post by joeym on Yesterday at 07:45:13 AM »
Agreed that double rinsing isn't sufficient.   Birds needs to be soaked in rinse water for 15-30 minutes.  Pour it off, drain bird, then immerse in fresh water.   I do this 6-8 times on all birds.   Spraying off will not work.   They need to be totally immersed.   I have several Rubbermaid totes that I use to expedite this process.   It takes half a day, but I do multiple birds. 
For Sale / Coyote furs
« Last post by New Jersey bone on Yesterday at 07:40:28 AM »
Hey guys I have 6 coyotes for sale $50 each they are mountable and ready to be tanned also I have 3 large red fox for sale 20 each wall hangers please message me for pictures 732 439 7559
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