Field Care/Preservation
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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Taxidermy Discussion Categories  |  Tanning  |  Topic: Field Care/Preservation « previous next »
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New Member
Posts: 13

« on: September 15, 2006, 01:53:32 PM »

I have a client that will be traveling 12 hours away and hunting for Antelope for 5-6 days.  He has told me that there is no guide service available on this trip, and no butcher shop available to freeze any hides.  Since this person is not skilled at caping out an antelope, fleshing, and salting, what can I recommend to keep this hide safe until it reaches my shop?  And is this possible?
Platinum Member
Location: Elk Grove, Ca
Posts: 7015

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« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2006, 02:02:35 PM »

When we hunted out of state and we prepared our hides for transporting back home or to the procesors, we would skin out the deer/elk, and I would salt the hide as best I could then I placed it in a plastic bag inside an ice chest with ice. THe plastic bag kept the cape away from any melting ice (water) and also kept the capes from drying out. We take ice chest along specifically for the capes. Back then we left the heads  ON the cape so you have to have a fairly good size ice chest. or a snow bank.  If they can cape the hide it would be better as you wouldnt have to try a stuff a big ole rack into an ice chest LOL.
  Now if its snowing there and alot of times we do hunt in the snow then I would salt it and wrap it good and place it somewhere other animals cant find it in the snow.
  Another guy that hunts with us totally dries his by salting it real good and letting it air dry. His come out looking like a piece of cardboard, but both ways have always resulted in nice capes when we had them mounted.
  I have never lost a cape doing the ice chest method. or snow bank method.  No hair slippage etc.
  Just my 2 cents :)

My name is Rae :)
 I'm located in Elk Grove, California
Specialize in mammals.
c bowen
Bronze Member
Location: yadkinville, nc
Posts: 62

« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2006, 02:07:30 PM »

Have you considered bringing him in to your shop and giving him a few lessons?  You have to give the guy credit, if he's willing to take off to unknown areas and hunt on his own he should at least be able to cape a hide.  It may not be exactly perfect but he could probably hold his own.  Bring him in and coach him through a few heads, show him how to rough flesh, salt, and hang it for draining.  Then just give him a list of supplies that he'll need to take with him. 

Besides it will give him an even greater sense of accomplishment in his trophy!!!
Silver Member
Location: Texas
Posts: 284

« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2006, 02:24:39 PM »

get one of the small box freezers from wal-mart coleman power inverters (same place) and pug that works real good. weaver
Silver Member
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 203

« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2006, 02:49:41 PM »

Ummm... STOP-ROT.  I (and other people) us this stuff upfront on everything!  Rough cape the goat (whack it off at the neck or skin the head out), treat the outsides of the ears, eyes, nose, and lips as well as the flesh side of the whole skin.  If the head is still in, treat the entire head (hair side) with STOP-ROT.  It will give you the extra time you need.

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