Black Crappie Replica Painting
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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Beginners, Training & Tutorials  |  Tutorials  |  Topic: Black Crappie Replica Painting « previous next »
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Author Topic: Black Crappie Replica Painting  (Read 7284 times)
Joey Arender
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« on: June 30, 2009, 04:33:20 AM »

This is one I struggle with on parts, but here is what I do when painting one ( most of the time)...

Again if someone can use parts to make theirs better then great...give me hints to make mine better great...just got finished reading how to do the fins. Wish I would have checked my email before starting this one..LOL Next time.  


well here goes

Started with one of my molds and had some breakage so appoxie to the rescue...anyhow here it is



Step 1. Super hide white appoxie areas and seams then cleaned eyes



Step 2. I used burnt umber with a pretty moderate coat



step 3.
Steel wooled being careful over appoxie areas.



Step 4.
Using my single action brush opened all the way and air at 60psi I use dark brown and barely press the trigger to get it to spit spots all over or as reference shows then steel wool a lot back off.




Step 5.
darkened back some with the dark brown just down to lateral line. more toned it in some.

Step 6. I change to my Detail brush and do all spots and fin markings.  DetailBrush I love...



Step 7.
I thin dark brown 50/50 with retarder an then pile up reference  and have fun trying to match nature(which I haven't yet)



Step 8
After I have it all done I steel wool it very very very very lightly...


steel wooled



Step 9.
Clean detail brush and drink a bottle of water letting eyes rest. ;D

Step 10.
Lightly sprayed super hide white on lower half of fish and head any where silver shows in my reference. Or flesh or white.


Step 11.
Cleanned eyes

step 12.
Chrome pearlescents every where white went( just don't do like me and get the white from step 10 on the fins ;D )

Step 13.
Iridescent Gold lightly, above the lateral line

step 14.
sealed with mist of lacquer spray.

step 15.
I wanted a slight greenish fish so I went with cadmium yellow as a light coat on top of head lips back and fading down side toward belly.
I use water base here after sealing in step 14. that way if I get greener then I want I can just windex the yellow off and do it again without messing up my detail work.



Step 16.
 sealed yellow with mist of lacquer

step 17.
 Payne's Grey  lightly top of head top of lips and down the back fading toward the lateral line



step 18.
painted the back side with the Payne's grey since this is a wall mount. I painted the buldge created by the mold where the eye is as an eye just playing around. Then steel wooled it some It will go to the customer this way. or as I tell them I can skip the detail work on the front and paint the back.. Most of the time I do put in two eyes but on replicas I am not anymore. especially when I paint the eye myself.




step 19.
sealed front and back after clean eye on show side.

step 20.
Scale detail green as I wanted a darker fish. Thinned with retarder and using detail brush and air at 12 psi. I sprayed lips top of head and down back lightly.


step 21.
Used same dark brown as before and touched up fins and spot on fish as well as between rays on pelvic and pectoral fins.


step 22. thought of using gold toner but decide fish wasn't to green

step 23.
sealed and installed fins



step 24.
thinned sienna with retarder and toned flesh y areas including tooth patch and anal fin junction



step 25.

Using powders in interference Violet, green, and  blue and shimmering green and blue I tipped scales as best I can






step 26.
using shimmering white pearl I rubbed it into the scale pockets on the side into the belly and on the cheek. I used shimmering green under and in front of the eye. Just wish I would have had jeffs lense so I could have made the pupil the correct shape. Next time I will  Maybe...LOL If I can paint a pupil



different camera


 step 27.

Sealed powders with mist .

step 28.
Glossed with wetlook 240


step 29.
cleaned detail brush until the cows came home.

and ready to go to customer


 

hope some can use parts. Good luck
just dont get your days and nights mixed up like I have.  ;D







 





 















« Last Edit: June 30, 2009, 07:57:40 AM by Joey Arender » Logged

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Bobbi Meyer
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« Reply #1 on: June 30, 2009, 09:14:15 AM »

very nice job, loved the tutorial!!!
I think on crappies, replicas are the way to go...I hate the scale loss I've always had on them.
you can do some more tutorials, as this one was very informative..great job!
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Kevin Halle
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« Reply #2 on: June 30, 2009, 09:24:05 AM »

Thanks for the great tutorial Joey!
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Bobbi Meyer
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« Reply #3 on: June 30, 2009, 09:25:51 AM »

I love the look those powders give.
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IAtaxi
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« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2009, 07:08:55 PM »

Great Work!  You should be proud!
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lonewolf1330
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« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2009, 07:26:36 PM »

Great job joey i always like your fish
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Joey Arender
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« Reply #6 on: June 30, 2009, 08:19:00 PM »

Thank yall

Bobbi I think its a better way for all pan fish for sure. I can mold, cast, and paint one in the same amount of time it takes me to skin, carve form, and taxi.. not to mention rebuilding shrunken areas... so for me replicas work really well.

Klye ...I am glad someone does LOL Thanks dude
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agagne41
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« Reply #7 on: June 30, 2009, 09:14:06 PM »

Hi Joey,   I'm a fishcarver and get a lot of help from you taxidermists.  I am just begining to paint a blk crappie I just carved.  I attended a seminar by Rick Krane at the world show in St. Charles and was introduced to new media such as pigment powders, watercolor pencils, charcoal, etc.   Your work looks great and I hope to try your techniques.   Thanks for the time and effort you put into this tutorial.   Al Gagne
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Joey Arender
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« Reply #8 on: June 30, 2009, 09:27:57 PM »

Hi Joey,   I'm a fishcarver and get a lot of help from you taxidermists.  I am just begining to paint a blk crappie I just carved.  I attended a seminar by Rick Krane at the world show in St. Charles and was introduced to new media such as pigment powders, watercolor pencils, charcoal, etc.   Your work looks great and I hope to try your techniques.   Thanks for the time and effort you put into this tutorial.   Al Gagne

Maybe some of the stuff will work for you. It was just the way I do one...it needs some improving,(esp fins) but its best I can do for now.  I cant wait till the day I get to go to Rick's and learn how to really do some neat stuff with powders pencils and the like.
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GWebb
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« Reply #9 on: June 30, 2009, 10:11:24 PM »

Nice looking fish, Excellent post!!
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mossyoakprincess
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« Reply #10 on: July 18, 2009, 09:31:00 PM »

That is beautiful!  Thank you for your hard work and helping us newbies out!
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THE ELITE 1369
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« Reply #11 on: July 29, 2009, 02:33:45 PM »

how do you apply the powders i have never seen it done it looks way better than the paint.
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Joey Arender
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« Reply #12 on: July 29, 2009, 07:35:17 PM »

I dip my dry artist brush in them tap it off and stamp or brush them on depending on how I want it and where. I use my finger to get it in between fin rays  when reference shows it. after I go over it once I hit it with a lite coat of sealer and when it dries I hit each scale again with different colors, Or the same depending on reference, until I get what I want...once you get the hang of it it goes really fast on big scale fish...
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Joey Arender
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« Reply #13 on: July 29, 2009, 07:39:48 PM »

also you have to watch for dropping it on your fins...if you forget to tap the excess off and get a little drop (pile) on the side of the fish just blow it off with your mouth.  I lay my mounting stand over to the side so I am working straight down on the fish too.  but I am sure there are better ways. I just haven't learned or found them yet.
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THE ELITE 1369
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« Reply #14 on: July 31, 2009, 01:15:06 PM »

which powders do you recommend who carries them.
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