Clear sealant for skulls
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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Taxidermy Discussion Categories  |  Skulls and Skeletons  |  Topic: Clear sealant for skulls « previous next »
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gnatboy911
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« Reply #60 on: January 06, 2013, 12:39:28 PM »

Has anybody tried this stuff for sealing drift wood? Seems it could be a stronger alternative to a spray on lacquer of some kind.
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Sea Wolf
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« Reply #61 on: January 06, 2013, 04:14:57 PM »

It will work but it will soak into the wood and sort of plasticize it. It will not stay on the surface like a spray coating will. It will also darken the wood some.
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Yinepu
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« Reply #62 on: January 07, 2013, 08:55:57 PM »

I ordered the Paraloid B-72 today.

I have a question though about purchased skulls and sealing them.

How long would you wait to seal a purchased skull if it doesn't look greasy upon arrival?  I worry about hidden grease, but I also would like to get them sealed as soon as possible in hopes that I can avoid cracked teeth.
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Great Skulls?
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« Reply #63 on: January 07, 2013, 09:20:49 PM »

1) Cracking teeth cannot be avoided!  2) Paraloid is easily reversible.  If you want to seal immediately, you can soak the skull in acetone if grease does emerge.  Personally, I'd wait a week or two though.

Also, you can paraloid the teeth and leave the rest of the skull unsealed if you like.  Just paint it on with a brush.
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Yinepu
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« Reply #64 on: January 07, 2013, 09:35:45 PM »

1) Cracking teeth cannot be avoided!  2) Paraloid is easily reversible.  If you want to seal immediately, you can soak the skull in acetone if grease does emerge.  Personally, I'd wait a week or two though.

Also, you can paraloid the teeth and leave the rest of the skull unsealed if you like.  Just paint it on with a brush.

That's why I said I HOPE to avoid cracked teeth.. figured I would do everything possible to lessen the chances (or at least to try to). At least if i coat them I will know that I tried to prevent it (even if it is in vain)
Thanks for the info though.. I didn't realize it could be removed that easily.
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Great Skulls?
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« Reply #65 on: January 08, 2013, 11:17:05 AM »

That's the beauty of the stuff!  (Plus it is really stable - won't color or expand over time.)
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Yinepu
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« Reply #66 on: January 08, 2013, 11:22:08 AM »

That's one of the major pluses to me..
If I spent all that time degreasing and whitening a skull.. the last thing I would want would be some sort of varnish or coating that would turn yellow in a few years
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Buckhorn TS
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« Reply #67 on: January 08, 2013, 10:52:48 PM »

Have any of you tried this on a fish mount?


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Sea Wolf
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« Reply #68 on: January 09, 2013, 06:25:26 AM »

I would assume, on a fish mount, that it will leave a glossy surface. It sinks into the surface of bone and other porous materials and doesn't really show.
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Yinepu
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« Reply #69 on: January 09, 2013, 08:38:56 AM »

I would assume, on a fish mount, that it will leave a glossy surface. It sinks into the surface of bone and other porous materials and doesn't really show.

My beetles will be here today and the Paraloid is due to be here on Friday. I have a small feeder goldfish that died that I have set aside to give to the beetles (not planning on saving the bones, just figured they would want a snack when they get here). If they manage to leave any bones behind i'll give it a quick dip and then report back.
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Whitetail365
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« Reply #70 on: January 25, 2013, 03:08:54 PM »

Got some Paraloid soaking in a clean metal paint can (never had paint in it) in denatured alcohol.

After the first day the plastics 'pellets' had started to dissolve and after day two they had completely 'melted' together at the bottom of the can and the consistency of the liquid above the hard bottom Paraloid was like thick maple syrup.

I think in another day or two it should be completely dissolve. I've added slightly more denatured alcohol each day. I started with just enough to  cover the Paraloid I put in the paint can. I can wait to try this stuff out. I have a skull I cleaned for my brother ready to go.
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Sea Wolf
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« Reply #71 on: January 25, 2013, 08:36:01 PM »

Keep poking at it and stirring it up. It helps it dissolve a bit faster. Ideally, it should be about the consistency of water or a hair thicker. Do a drop test. Take a ouple of drops and put them on a piece of glass, enamel or sturdy plastic. Let it dry completely. If you have a real thick dried drop of plastic, add a bit more alcohol. If you have a real thin layer, do a test skull or piece of bone and see how it looks. Alcohol will dry more slowly than acetone but the end result is the same.
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Whitetail365
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« Reply #72 on: January 26, 2013, 08:02:03 PM »

I've been mixing it daily and it's still too thick. I need to add more alcohol to the batch to get it thinner. Right now I still have a thin layer of plastic at the bottom of the metal container so I think I might need some more alcohol in there. I did a test drop on a piece of cardboard and got a thick drop. I'll keep playing with the mixture until it looks right.

Today I also picked up another metal container and some acetone. As you noted Sea Wolf, the acetone already seems to be dissolving the Paraloid faster.

I'm pretty excited to try this out, seems like a great way to seal a skull.
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Sea Wolf
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« Reply #73 on: January 27, 2013, 12:42:12 AM »

I wouldn't do the drop test on cardboard. Something that is not absorbent. Better if it's something that you can peel it up and toss it back in the bucket. One of the other things I like about the paraloid. All the drips and runs can be peeled up and returned to the bucket. No waste.
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Yinepu
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« Reply #74 on: January 31, 2013, 02:54:44 PM »

How do you guys dip the really tiny bones? i was thinking of using metal screen or something like that.. but I don't know how to go about drying them since I can't hang them and I don't want them sticking to paper or each other.
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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Taxidermy Discussion Categories  |  Skulls and Skeletons  |  Topic: Clear sealant for skulls « previous next »
 



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