Tannery stretch ?
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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Taxidermy Discussion Categories  |  Deer and Gameheads  |  Topic: Tannery stretch ? « previous next »
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Author Topic: Tannery stretch ?  (Read 5616 times)
TIMBUCK
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« Reply #15 on: May 13, 2012, 08:46:53 AM »

They wont stretch because they have not been neutralized properly.
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Randy Miller
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« Reply #16 on: May 13, 2012, 09:00:54 AM »

they have not been neutralized properly.


That is correct. I too spray w/water &baking soda before bagging, then stretch and measure.
« Last Edit: May 13, 2012, 10:05:12 AM by Randy Miller » Logged
hounddoggy
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« Reply #17 on: May 13, 2012, 09:54:13 AM »

another quick tip        TRUBOND
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George Roof
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« Reply #18 on: May 13, 2012, 10:02:53 AM »

Hounddoggy you don't have enough history to give "tips". SOME of us still use professional tanners. Truebond is a great tan if we elect to use it, but like ANY TAN knowledge and experience pay off in spades.
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If the truth offends you, then by all means, avoid it.
Randy Miller
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« Reply #19 on: May 13, 2012, 10:26:50 AM »

another quick tip        TRUBOND


That tip is useless to this thread; the tanning is already done. Painting some BS on an already tanned hide accomplishes nothing.
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cooterwhitt
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Location: fayetteville,tn
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« Reply #20 on: May 13, 2012, 10:28:05 AM »

Yea no way is take the time to tan my own or flesh I always send me out and when they come back there ready to go on a form

Outdoor Hub mobile, the outdoor information engine
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BACKWOODS TAXIDERMY AND KENNEL
TIMBUCK
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« Reply #21 on: May 13, 2012, 04:49:22 PM »

Im not exactly sure when or if the WG neutralizes there capes. All I know is that there capes are still strong on the acid side.When you take one out of the box wet it and press ph paper to it. See what you get. They have a strong formic smell also. Burns my eyes.
A cape that has been properly neutralized will not be this strong. Try it and watch it foam. The foaming is a reaction between the acid and baking soda. A cape that has been neutralized will not react. The capes I tan in house do not do this. Try it for yourself on one of there capes. They will let out once neutralized considerably.
If a cape has not been neutralized properly it WONT stretch.
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TIMBUCK
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« Reply #22 on: May 13, 2012, 04:49:58 PM »

What is TRUEBOND anyway.
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George Roof
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« Reply #23 on: May 13, 2012, 05:32:11 PM »

A "Do It Yourself" shop tan.
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Justin P.
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« Reply #24 on: May 13, 2012, 05:58:21 PM »

What is TRUEBOND anyway.

http://trubondtanning.com/
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Dennis Bragg
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« Reply #25 on: May 13, 2012, 06:11:46 PM »

A "Do It Yourself" shop tan.

A very good shop tan.  ;)
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tazzymoto
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« Reply #26 on: May 13, 2012, 06:14:08 PM »

I have been using Tru-bond 1000 along with my auto tanner with great results
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David Patton
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« Reply #27 on: May 23, 2012, 12:04:01 PM »

Formic acid pickles usually start at about 1.7 with 1.25 ounces per gallon. I can get citric acid pickles to start at 1.5 with 3 ounces of citric per gallon. The alum tan and the syn tan are neutralized at the end of the tanning bath. I wonder why a Wildlife Gallery rep doesn't come on board here and explain this tan system for this thread?
I doubt that a lack of neutralizing is the only issue with the capes that the poster started with. We can only guess at the problem without having the cape in hand, so here is my guess...that cape most likely needs to be rehydrated and shaved down more. The top layer is tough to get the knife to cut, but once it is thinned off (the top layer), it will open up more. That is the nature of the tanned leather...surface leather is tougher than the leather just below the surface. To get the top layer to "soften", a mixture of downy (already mentioned) is one option that works, or a mixture of water and baking soda will work to "let out" or "soften" the top layer. Soak the cape for about 15 to 20 minutes in the mixture and bag it in a plastic bag for a couple hours and then you can get the cape to thin down more. It really is a combination of factors here...with the top layer of leather being the main issue preventing you from getting your cape to stretch more.

Even if the cape seems thinned enough, it is that surface leather that is holding you back. Be careful and use a very sharp knife to cut a thin layer off. It makes all the difference in the world.
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Commercial tanning since 1982
Greg Livbucks
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« Reply #28 on: May 23, 2012, 10:26:52 PM »

So it is OK to shampoo an alum tan then?  It's really oily and I want the hair clean and bright. Don't want the tan to wash out though. The ears are really dirty and greasy and I don't want them drumming.
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tazzymoto
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« Reply #29 on: May 24, 2012, 03:50:52 PM »

I prefer to tumble in corncob grit with mineral spirits, But to answer your question yes you can wash them
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