Tannery stretch ?

[Hudson]

All one needs to do for a properly shaved/cape to rehydrate and stretch is a quick soak (less than 20 min) in plain water, then hang or bag if you like. Salt, soaps, downey or baking soda are not needed, if you need to do these things to get a cape ready for mounting you should look for a different tanner. A deer cape should rehydrate with a spritz bottle or sponge.

WG has not produced a "stretchy" cape in 15 years lol....their claim to fame is consistancy and turnaround.

[TIMBUCK]

They wont stretch because they have not been neutralized properly.

[Randy Miller]

they have not been neutralized properly.

That is correct. I too spray w/water &baking soda before bagging, then stretch and measure.

[hounddoggy]

another quick tip        TRUBOND

[George Roof]

Hounddoggy you don't have enough history to give "tips". SOME of us still use professional tanners. Truebond is a great tan if we elect to use it, but like ANY TAN knowledge and experience pay off in spades.

[Randy Miller]

another quick tip        TRUBOND

That tip is useless to this thread; the tanning is already done. Painting some BS on an already tanned hide accomplishes nothing.

[cooterwhitt]

Yea no way is take the time to tan my own or flesh I always send me out and when they come back there ready to go on a form

Outdoor Hub mobile, the outdoor information engine

[Hudson]

They wont stretch because they have not been neutralized properly.

Explain this indept so everyone can understand......what is the pH of a WG cape when it is tanned, when does neutralization take place in a WG tanning procedure....etc. This will help everyone....

[TIMBUCK]

Im not exactly sure when or if the WG neutralizes there capes. All I know is that there capes are still strong on the acid side.When you take one out of the box wet it and press ph paper to it. See what you get. They have a strong formic smell also. Burns my eyes.
A cape that has been properly neutralized will not be this strong. Try it and watch it foam. The foaming is a reaction between the acid and baking soda. A cape that has been neutralized will not react. The capes I tan in house do not do this. Try it for yourself on one of there capes. They will let out once neutralized considerably.
If a cape has not been neutralized properly it WONT stretch.

[TIMBUCK]

What is TRUEBOND anyway.

[George Roof]

A "Do It Yourself" shop tan.

[Justin P.]

What is TRUEBOND anyway.

http://trubondtanning.com/

[Dennis Bragg]

A "Do It Yourself" shop tan.

A very good shop tan. 

[tazzymoto]

I have been using Tru-bond 1000 along with my auto tanner with great results

[Hudson]

Im not exactly sure when or if the WG neutralizes there capes. All I know is that there capes are still strong on the acid side.When you take one out of the box wet it and press ph paper to it. See what you get. They have a strong formic smell also. Burns my eyes.
A cape that has been properly neutralized will not be this strong. Try it and watch it foam. The foaming is a reaction between the acid and baking soda. A cape that has been neutralized will not react. The capes I tan in house do not do this. Try it for yourself on one of there capes. They will let out once neutralized considerably.
If a cape has not been neutralized properly it WONT stretch.

Sounds as if your guessing....if WG wasn`t neutralizing their capes then those that use them are really getting screwed. They use a syntan which MUST be neutralized PRIOR to tanning other wise the cape won`t tan properly. A acid such as formic is around 2.2 to 2.5 pH, a citric acid is 2.5 - 3.0 pH, a TAN is between 4.0 - 4.5, which all is below a neutral pH of 7. I can tell you if you put a tanned cape with a pH of 4 into a bucket with soda/water you will get a reaction.

Like George said ......becareful of giving advice, your knocking a pretty solid company....lol