2 topics-one thread-helpful tips
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oldshaver
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Location: Zebulon, NC
Posts: 1193


« on: April 04, 2012, 10:00:16 PM »

SHORT INCISIONS-DORSAL CUTS-TUBED SKINS: Ever wonder why one of these skns seemed fine coming out of the pickle, hair tight, and epidermis tight, then later slipped???

When allowing these skins to dry, after tan application, you have to allow the hair side to dry also!  Take a paint-on tan for example. After the application of the tan, leave the skin, SKIN SIDE OUT, overnight. Next AM, turn the skin HAIR SIDE OUT, and place under a fan, for the haie side to dy. This is very important! Many times, not doing this, you will notice ear slippage, epidermis loss, belly slip on small game, and the list goes on! Think about it??? Bacteria loves DARK and DAMP to grow and reproduce. No matter what type of tanning you do, DONT forget this, on these types of skns! The skin side will tan, and that wont change. Leaving the hair side of a skin, damp and dark, while drying, will bite you! Get in the freezer ASAP.


BIG LIPS ON SHAVING MACHINE BLADES: Some genious started this practice along time ago, and it is WRONG! Encourage your suppliers to change this practice of grinding those GIANT lips! That personal preference stuf is wrong. There is NO REASON to hae those big lips on a blade. Learn how to use a small lip, and no one will ever convince you to go bck to a big one! I promise! :o

1. The blade waste- for every big lip ground and turned on a blade, you can get 2 grinds, with a smaller lip. Sell more blades?
2. The big lip, is wayyyy more dangerous! Common sence should tell you that.
3. A big lip, is MUCH more likely to cause skin damages, because it is MUCH harder to control!
4. Common myth- a big lip can take off more, or thicker pieces of skin. Wrong! The only part of the lp that is cutting, is the very tip, or edge. You can actually lift a small
    lip up, and take off more skin. You cant lift up a big lip, other than the very tip.

Basically, the grinding of those big lips, was born out of ignorance,and is nothing more than a waste of a blade, that is harder to control. Shaving smaller skins, like small game , is twice as difficult as it should be! All this is just MHO.
« Last Edit: April 05, 2012, 12:10:33 PM by oldshaver » Logged
brigham boy
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Location: utah
Posts: 728


"if it's horny, mount it"

« Reply #1 on: April 04, 2012, 10:19:05 PM »

Great tips old shaver.. Thanks.   I am going to switch to a small lip blade, time for some new tuning steels also
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"live in the moment."
saddlehorse_98
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Posts: 778

« Reply #2 on: April 08, 2012, 08:04:19 AM »

I've had this problem after tanning a couple times,  usually after it comes out of neutralize bath, I  rinse it one more time and snap out as much water as I can. then freeze  it, then when I take it out of freezer to mount, they some times have slipped,
 my question is do you as a rule make sure all wet tanned hides are completely dry before freezing? or just dry the hair side and then freeze it. I'm worried about shrinkage if I let it dry to much.  thanks
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MVT
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Location: Eagle River, Alaska
Posts: 324

« Reply #3 on: April 08, 2012, 11:23:12 AM »

If you dry it completely why freeze it? If you are having slipping after freezing and thawing you are probably rolling the hide up to tight and it is taking it too long to thaw. Moisture is trapped in the outer layers while the inner is still frozen. Also you should spin or blow the hair to remove as much moisture as you can before freezing. If it is fairly warm then place it in the freezer open for 20 minutes or so and let it cool down before bagging it. Loosly fold the hide in the bag and seal the bag tight to avoid condensation in the bag, but don't roll the hide tight. When you take it out to thaw, take it out of the bag until surface moisture dissipates then you can re bag and thaw in the fridge if you want. If you are still getting slippage then the problems are elsewhere. 
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saddlehorse_98
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Posts: 778

« Reply #4 on: April 08, 2012, 12:35:53 PM »

I guess I shouldn't be putting the hides in a vaccuum savor bags before freezing them. they are for sure tight in those bags. thanks
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oldshaver
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Location: Zebulon, NC
Posts: 1193


« Reply #5 on: April 08, 2012, 10:15:51 PM »

Lets take the application of a paint-on tan, like TruBond 1000.

Option #2,of the TB1000 directions gives the option of of letting a skn completely dry, after the tan application, then rehydrate, freeze or mount. Here is where this problem might arrise?

While ANY SKIN, like the ones I mentioned, is allowed to completely dry, you MUST pay attention to the drying  of the hair side, also.

After oiling a skin that has been tanned with a submercible tan, like LUTAN, or Permatan 2000, you need to let the oiled skin dry, then rehydrate, wash, and freeze or mount.  The time between the oiling, drying ,and the rehydration and washing, is the time in question here. I am simply saying, make sure the hair side also dries!

I agree with MVT on this. If you are going to allow a hide to completely dry(after a QUALITY tanning process), you really dont need, or shouldnt have to re-freeze that skin. A skin tanned with TruBond 1000, can be alowed to completely, then simply be stored in a climate controled enviroment(this will prevent bugs and mold), until ready to rehydrate the skin, and mount it.
« Last Edit: April 09, 2012, 10:49:12 AM by oldshaver » Logged
DRW
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Location: MARYLAND
Posts: 72


« Reply #6 on: April 10, 2012, 02:48:46 PM »

GREAT TIPS .  i would love to see tanning tips of the week from oldshaver  ;)
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drewt202
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Location: st. bernard louisiana
Posts: 117


« Reply #7 on: April 10, 2012, 03:12:46 PM »

Thanks for the info. I'm about to tan a coyote with the McKenzie brush on tan. So I would do better letting the hide completly dry after applying the tan than freezing it? And what to rehydrate it in. Thanks for the help. I appreciate your time.

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