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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Taxidermy Discussion Categories  |  Deer and Gameheads  |  Topic: torn and broken ears on already mounted game... « previous next »
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Author Topic: torn and broken ears on already mounted game...  (Read 2336 times)
ryan rhodes
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« on: May 16, 2012, 02:29:54 PM »

I've fixed several of these in the past, but wondered if any of the more experienced guys, especially in african can offer any tips to fixing broken, split and torn ears on already mounted game-heads....  thanks!
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Ryan J. Rhodes
109 christopher dr
nicholasville, ky 40356
401-787-2994

www.gunnerstaxidermy.com
ryan rhodes
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Posts: 1288


« Reply #1 on: May 18, 2012, 07:42:35 PM »

Som nobody has ever fixed a broken ear before... ;)
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Ryan J. Rhodes
109 christopher dr
nicholasville, ky 40356
401-787-2994

www.gunnerstaxidermy.com
bowerbird
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Posts: 416

« Reply #2 on: May 18, 2012, 11:36:43 PM »

Repaired plenty ,, post us an image of what the main problem is,, but let me guess,,,Bondo ears?
And if you havent worked it out already,,my pet hate is Bondo ears,,a lazy mans answer to ear reproduction

Sure ,,, i do see some lovely Bondo ears soon after they are done, gorgeous shapes with flicks and turns like a cat walk model , absolute masterpieces,,,but given time with the process of age and cartilage  tension from shrinkage, the Bondo filler either acts like a chisel of polyester and slice through the tips or the cartilage shrinks and creates drumming. And if the Bondo mix is too thin ,,( because its really nice  to have thin natural looking ears) more often than not they bend like bananas.
I have  see a  number of Blesbok and Black buck ETC mounts go that way years down the track after they have left the taxidermists shop ,,,and they almost appear to be waving you good bye or for your attention for  help as you leave the trophy room.

Of course the alternative to banana  ears is more Bondo mix so then they look like carrot  ears,, thick at the base , thinning to the top ,,but hey,,they dont warp then!
Im surprised they dont ignite under the concentration of mix at the time of application!

And if were talking, " oh i remove the cartilages and then use Bondo over an earmold" ,,why not then use an already fiber- impregnated --plastic- material    that is manufactured in an already millimeter uniformly thin sheet and only needs boiling water to work it into one of those catwalk models.
And its flexible!
Dont make hard work of it all,, leave that to the opposition.
YOU WILL BE GLAD you use earliners when you receive your first shipment of African  heads that have had ALL the cartilages removed, and half the edges chewed off by varmints and insects,,try using Bondo then,,what an absolute mess.


And yes i see PLENTY of lousy earliner jobs fundamentally because the taxidermist did not remove the cartilage, used a bad non stick earliner, or an incorrect adhesive glue for the job.
Again bad taxidermy princples  becoming trendy when alternative correct ones have existed for decades.

(DONT LET ME START ON FORM TOURCHING)

Theres no excuse in selecting a bad earliner material nowdays, its all out in the open and most suppliers sell it by the sheets.

Ever watched an ear cartilage shrivel  up  on the bench as it dries,  how hard and glassy that sucker feels ,,,hit it with a hammer ,,, tough little thing it is ,,that's natures secret ,,tough and flexible so the animal  can retain  the major portion of its ear   for life as an aid to one of his essential 5 senses,,,, .
That sort of shrinkage creates a lot of tensile force pulling on the ear skin against a rigid polyester Bondo ear edge even years after its done.
Its the skin that eventually gives way, splitting at the ends, or de laminating  the cartilage from  the Bondo . Fundamental drumming

Could you  imagine a buck deer during the rut with an ear as rigid as Bondo,, bang ,,ouch, OMG ,half an ear gone as well as part of an antler,,
Thing is, the antler will grow back next season...
Not that this is a fair or realistic comparisment, but flexibility in anything is why  you,  me,  glass, bridges and even high rise buildings function,,they are not constructed of a totally rigid system,,they are engineered to have some flexibility even though they appear rigid ,,so as to ensure longativity.

As for the tips breaking,, that's typical of Bondo,, brittle and snap like autumn leaves when they are "artistically "thin.

I had a Roan antelope mounted by another taxidermist knocked over by a "buying" customer earlier this week, the ear was so rigid it  didnt break, lots of Bondo in this one,, but it literally tore the whole of the base ear butt skin away from the inner clay butt simply because there was absolutely no flexibility , no give what so ever.
The curse of Bondo in another dimension rises its ugly head

To prove my point try doing this to a dry mount with Bondo ears. This elk is 10 days old,, then get back to me and  tell me which is more durable in commercial and competition work.
Earliners of Bondo

IF ANYONE CAN DO THIS WITH  A REGULAR OUT OF THE CAN BONDO EAR , i will personally ask Larry Bloomquist to invite them to the next World Show and i will pay there accommodation so they can put on a seminar and show everyone else how Bondo ears are a long term asset in taxidermy and can be made as flexible as this earliner. I see enough fine work spoiled by splitting bondo ears that there ought to be a industry bann on the STUFF. If it was the auto industry and this amount of grief was emerging from finished products there would be a total recall of products involved and a banning of the material as an industry use hazard. Then again bondo was never meant for the taxidermy industry, it was designed for the panel shop repairer.
The silence will be deafening, but at least my tips wont break.


* earliners_01.jpg (43.67 kB, 640x480 - viewed 647 times.)

* earliners_02.jpg (29.12 kB, 360x480 - viewed 651 times.)

* earliners_03.jpg (56.08 kB, 640x480 - viewed 644 times.)
« Last Edit: May 19, 2012, 01:40:39 AM by bowerbird » Logged
sleeping giant
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Location: vermont
Posts: 93


« Reply #3 on: May 19, 2012, 07:30:33 AM »

Ryan, hope you had time to read ,Bowerbirds post. give me a call and I'll give you some help, or see you at the show. Bowerbird I see you still use the old method of pinning, and don't understand ear anatomy! SG
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James Marsico
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Location: Cody Wyoming
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« Reply #4 on: May 19, 2012, 07:49:39 AM »

Very nice web site and work sleeping gaint. What method do you use for split up cape buffalo ears? Exactly what ear liners and glue do you buy?  Also the same questions for bowerbird. I think that I havemost likely used every method known to taxidermists over the years. Small ears up to whitetail size, bondo and resin and chopped matt with a well diced up cartlidge (1/8" cross dicing over the whole cartlidge) seem to work best. The two part ear resins with plastic ear liners on most everything else. Every once in a while I still get some drumming I have to fix. I hate that! I also use the bondo, resin, matt diced up ear for cape and water buffalo. Most all of those big bulls have split up ears so bad sometimes it would seem impossible to ever get a liner in them.
« Last Edit: May 19, 2012, 08:56:23 AM by James Marsico » Logged

bowerbird
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Posts: 416

« Reply #5 on: May 19, 2012, 08:43:13 AM »

Yes its quite a task working on irradiated capes, and on long haired winter elk sout of Mongolia, well glueing and pinning wont do it any harm ,,
drop me a line when you have any difficulties working on radiated capes, believe me ear butts will be the least of the concerns,,,,
And Ryan, yes please post pics of what extent of ear damage we are refering too,
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ryan rhodes
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Posts: 1288


« Reply #6 on: May 19, 2012, 08:53:55 AM »

Here's some pics...  thanks, pete i'll give you a shout this afternoon!







http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y178/rjrtaxidermy/P1010206.jpg[/img]







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Ryan J. Rhodes
109 christopher dr
nicholasville, ky 40356
401-787-2994

www.gunnerstaxidermy.com
ryan rhodes
Platinum Member
*****
Posts: 1288


« Reply #7 on: May 19, 2012, 08:56:01 AM »

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Ryan J. Rhodes
109 christopher dr
nicholasville, ky 40356
401-787-2994

www.gunnerstaxidermy.com
James Marsico
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Location: Cody Wyoming
Posts: 5293


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« Reply #8 on: May 19, 2012, 09:08:54 AM »

Those look like rosin paper ear liners Ryan. ?  Thats what most all taxidermists used in the 50's and 60's and some even today. Seems like all you could do on those mounts is start by trying to soak them a little and super glue clamp them back somewhat.  Mostly now junk otherwise.  Taxidermy is not considered "art" by the general art world because it degrades and falls apart and even today many taxidermists mount animals for cheapness and speed production rather than long lasting quality. A 100 year old painting by a famous artist has increased in value by "lots". A 100 year old mount by a famous taxidermist, not so much.
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ryan rhodes
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Posts: 1288


« Reply #9 on: May 19, 2012, 11:32:10 AM »

Haha, yeah James, I hear ya!  I did a little restoration project a couple years ago and the ears were like this.  I could separate them enough to mix up 2 part epoxy and then clamp them together with that to add some rigidity.  I was just looking for other options...  This project is 43 mounts, and these are the worst of it...
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Ryan J. Rhodes
109 christopher dr
nicholasville, ky 40356
401-787-2994

www.gunnerstaxidermy.com
CLIFFTAX
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Location: Central New York
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Taxidermist

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« Reply #10 on: May 19, 2012, 04:39:40 PM »

marking
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bowerbird
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« Reply #11 on: May 20, 2012, 06:41:30 AM »

just quickly so i dont bore evreyone again,
James on the buffalo, both Asian and Cape,,, my guys produce earliners,,,more often than not its the cape buffs that have all the shredding, but my guy removes the cartilage like a jig sw puzzle and tracesit onto the sheet liner, , heat and forms.
Sometimes where odd pieces look like they are hanging as a shred, he will open the ear skin along the scar to allow the cartilage to be removed, then close with super glue after he inserts it.
On real small stuff like the micro bats, we pocket the ear, and mix a two part  5 minute epoxy glue with the finest of scissored matt into it, then insert it linto the ear and foprm. It gives a transparent rigid ear
As for the repairs,,Ryan, you have your work cut out. A lot of that will require resoakng with swabs, core anchoring with wire to secure the detached ears
and trim back the bog say in the kudu to superglue a sem close.
I often dig all the loose stuff out of the base which is normally clay and too powdery,,then mix plaster fine hessian and some bond crete,,a water based seler of concrete floor in the mix to send it rock hard, Form the ear base skin over the mush until it sets, allow maybe 24 hours, then carefully peel the torn perimeter back up and reglue it back down with a water based glue
T
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boarhunter67
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« Reply #12 on: May 23, 2012, 11:17:35 AM »

I've seen bondo ears on 20-30 year old mounts that weren't split or drummed, and I've seen earliners on mounts 10 years old that were drummed or split.  Most of the ones that were split or damaged on both types were because the customer dropped the mount or handled it very roughly over and over, or because it was in a place where it continuously got damp and dry like one I got last year to fix that was in a sun room that got very damp in the winter when it snowed and very hot and dry in the summer.  There are more factors to ears splitting than whether bondo was used or not.
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