question about Badger Velocity problem
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Author Topic: question about Badger Velocity problem  (Read 3927 times)
Pescado
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« Reply #15 on: May 22, 2012, 11:54:43 PM »

I checked and I don't have a crack unless it's invisible to the naked eye.  I squirted lacquer thinner through the tip and back again.  I do have another problem now.  I am getting no air at all.  I took the bottom off and no air will come through the valve.  I tried squirting lacquer thinner though, using a pipe cleaner, etc.  The valve still moves, but I can't get air through it.  I too have only used it 2-3 times and cleaned it every time after use like I do my other guns by squirting lacquer thinner though it and moving the needle back and forth.  This time I only took it apart because I couldn't get it to spray.  It kept bubbling and now air won't even come out.  I know it must be clogged, but since I always thin my paints down and clean every time and have only used it a few times, I don't see how.  As I said I even took it apart and soaked everything that could be dirty.  I have a filter on my compressor so I'm at a loss.  

 A magnifying glass will aid in seeing a crack in the R-003.

 If you soak the airvalve with Lacquer thinner, you may compromise the o-ring.

 What kind of paint are you using?

Backflushing helps a bunch, better than simply moving needle back and forth. Also, needle should be removed and wiped off, lubed and put back in, gently.

 Like Matt said, call me 616 677 3844

 As far as the title for this thread, I find that 99% of the time, the problem isn't the airbrush. Most always the paint or the operator or both. You can not assume that paint will just go through a fine detail brush, just because it flows through a .5mm or a .75mm nozzle on a paasche or similar airbrush commonly used by taxidermists. The .21mm nozzle in the Velocity is considerably smaller than the .5mm #1tip for Paasche. Big difference, two and a half times the difference.
  PB
« Last Edit: May 23, 2012, 12:06:35 AM by Pescado » Logged

Paul Borkowski
Blue Ribbon Taxidermy & Supply
Agawa Canyon Outfitters, LTD.
boarhunter67
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« Reply #16 on: May 23, 2012, 09:38:26 AM »

I'm using Lifetone or Polytranspar lacquer paint.  I'll try looking with a magnifying glass later today.  When I clean I usually take the tip off and put lacquer thinner through to the back and move the needle back and forth.  I also backwash into the cup.  I spray until everything is clear.  I take the needle completely out and squirt lacquer thinner though the whole thing.  Then I put it back together and spray lacquer thought again. I do not lube the needle back up.  Maybe you can do a tutorial on your whole process of cleaning and lubing.  My other brushes have a .24 needle and I think the Badger has a .19.
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Pescado
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« Reply #17 on: May 23, 2012, 10:02:31 AM »

The velocity comes with a .21 mm set up.  What brand airbrush has the .24 mm?

Backflushing is normally good enough, no need to disassemble the spray nozzle. The only part that I take out is the needle. The velocity has about the shortest paint channel of all the renegades, not really that much to flush out.

 When you take the needle out and spray thinner through the whole thing as stated above, you are getting solvent in areas that it shouldn't be. That is why there is a teflon seal (R-0023) in the body of the brush between the trigger/airvalve area and the paint cup spray nozzle area.

 PB
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Paul Borkowski
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Agawa Canyon Outfitters, LTD.
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« Reply #18 on: May 23, 2012, 10:05:28 AM »

I checked and I don't have a crack unless it's invisible to the naked eye.  I squirted lacquer thinner through the tip and back again.  I do have another problem now.  I am getting no air at all.  I took the bottom off and no air will come through the valve.  I tried squirting lacquer thinner though, using a pipe cleaner, etc.  The valve still moves, but I can't get air through it.  I too have only used it 2-3 times and cleaned it every time after use like I do my other guns by squirting lacquer thinner though it and moving the needle back and forth.  This time I only took it apart because I couldn't get it to spray.  It kept bubbling and now air won't even come out.  I know it must be clogged, but since I always thin my paints down and clean every time and have only used it a few times, I don't see how.  As I said I even took it apart and soaked everything that could be dirty.  I have a filter on my compressor so I'm at a loss.  

 A magnifying glass will aid in seeing a crack in the R-003.

 If you soak the airvalve with Lacquer thinner, you may compromise the o-ring.

 What kind of paint are you using?

Backflushing helps a bunch, better than simply moving needle back and forth. Also, needle should be removed and wiped off, lubed and put back in, gently.

 Like Matt said, call me 616 677 3844

 As far as the title for this thread, I find that 99% of the time, the problem isn't the airbrush. Most always the paint or the operator or both. You can not assume that paint will just go through a fine detail brush, just because it flows through a .5mm or a .75mm nozzle on a paasche or similar airbrush commonly used by taxidermists. The .21mm nozzle in the Velocity is considerably smaller than the .5mm #1tip for Paasche. Big difference, two and a half times the difference.
  PB

Exactly what Paul is saying here. I was having troubles with my velocity and krome. It is amazing what a flake of dried paint can do to a quality airbrush. After several phone conversations with Paul/Pescado, my problems caused by my lack of proper cleaning, have been resolved.  Thanks again Paul.
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boarhunter67
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« Reply #19 on: May 23, 2012, 10:30:04 AM »

I'm sure this is the problem with my airbrush.  I don't think I ever implied that the Badger airbrush is anything but top quality.  It does seem more difficult to work on, but that's probably because I'm less familiar with it.
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Chris Lillefloren
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« Reply #20 on: May 23, 2012, 06:41:14 PM »

Well after disassembly & soaking (needle, ultra-fine tip, hold down ring & fine spray regulator) a for a solid 24 hours, the leak @ the hold down ring is gone.  However, it is still bubbling @ the bowl.  Pescado, I will be calling soon if that's ok.  I'm very new to all of this & my lack of knowledge is driving me nuts!  Such as.......

- If you soak the airvalve with Lacquer thinner, you may compromise the o-ring. -

Where is this o-ring?  I didn't see one when I disassembled it.

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Pescado
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« Reply #21 on: May 23, 2012, 09:08:59 PM »

O ring is in the airvalve. No reason to take that apart.

Ignore any minor air leak at the hold down ring area. This has no effect on the preformance of the brush. even the $450 Iwata CM's pass a bit of air here.

 Look at the R-003 and inspect closely for a small fracture in the small end. I just replaced one on a new brush that I sold last week. The gentleman took the brush apart and reassembled with the trigger set fully forward. Not a good idea.

 PB

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Paul Borkowski
Blue Ribbon Taxidermy & Supply
Agawa Canyon Outfitters, LTD.
Clew
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« Reply #22 on: May 24, 2012, 07:58:22 PM »

Hey ole fart

I will take two and a hundred dollars each
Use the two hundred to buy another velocity chrome
Then will use the pascha for pearls and gloss

Couldn't resist

Lol
Carl
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waynenix
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« Reply #23 on: May 26, 2012, 02:50:10 PM »

I use a Iwata Model HP-SBS Eclipse Airbrush. Costs around $100 bucks and works great. I've had problems using a Paasche VL. It was way to fussy about paint viscosity. The Iwata sprays everything i've run through it, no problems.
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animalartstaxidermy
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« Reply #24 on: May 27, 2012, 08:12:45 AM »

I have had the same problems too mnay times.  Mine sits on the shelf full time now.  I wouldn't purchase another one.  With that being said, they have great paint.

WOW they wrote the book air brush for dummies for me ,and i will never paint with anything but my badger.Like pauy said your heavy pigment paint will mess it up i use the iwata for those.but my gen colors and detail id be lost without it.
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FINNFLIGHT
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« Reply #25 on: May 29, 2012, 09:22:49 AM »

hey fin, I think that it is a nice detail brush, but for what I do, way too many problems.  I have never heard of all of these issues with an Iwata.  I am sure it happens, maybe.  I mean seriously, I have to look at parts through a magnified glass to see if there are cracks?  I have also had a lot of problems with the paint cup falling out of the brush.  I can't seem to get it tight.  It "wabbles" and my last attempt with this brush, the cup fall out and went all over a project I was working on...

Like I have said before, the customer service is great through Paul.  He is a great dude.  As a matter of fact, I took my brush to the state convention and had Paul take a look at it because of the problems I had with it.   He took the time to tear it apart.   I ended up buying several new parts for it and some badger oil.  I bought a new tip, new needles, etc.  For the life of me, I can not get this brush to preform on a daily basis.  

I have finally come to a conclusion that the brush just isn't for me.  When I have to take an hour out of my day each time I want to use it, there is a problem with the system.  I can, at any given moment, go pick up my iwata or my cheap central pneumatic air brush and paint.  No big hassles, never cracked a tip, never replaced o rings, never put it together wrong, always sprays paint, thick, thin, medium.  

With that being said I will sell my badger brush if someone wants to give it a whirl!  :)
« Last Edit: May 29, 2012, 10:30:06 AM by ryanolson72 » Logged



Ryan Olson
A Sportsmans Dream Taxidermy
11511 Sprinkle Rd.
Vicksburg, MI 49097
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« Reply #26 on: May 29, 2012, 10:03:30 AM »

Hey, its a fair assessment. I'm always pro-what works best for the artist. Though I have to say, if you are spending an hour daily to use the Velocity airbrush, its not the "system". I'm running in seconds, less than a few minutes to clean, and I'm no pro. I did have the ultra fine tip break, but that was my fault. No other issues. I have never used an Iwata, and read the great reviews. I would have bought one if they didn't cost so much. Now I'm happy with my Velocity, no need to change (unless I can find a better and still affordable brush). From what I can tell, there isn't a detail brush that can do much better. So, for now, the Velocity is for me.
Best, Scott
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ryanolson72
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« Reply #27 on: May 29, 2012, 10:25:33 AM »

Like I said, I do believe that it is a good detail brush.  I am by far not the best air brush guy out there.  Paul is by far one of the best out there, and he uses this brush.  I guess what I am getting at, in my full time shop, I don't have the time for a product to let me down.  If I have to worry about minute parts failing, it is costing me money and time.  I m not promoting or demoting any of these brushes.  These are just my personal results with this product.
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Ryan Olson
A Sportsmans Dream Taxidermy
11511 Sprinkle Rd.
Vicksburg, MI 49097
269-649-1721
CrabCrazy
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« Reply #28 on: May 29, 2012, 02:46:55 PM »

most airbrushes are good enough...the problem is the thick paints and air pressure...
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Mounting Game and fish since 1958...retired since 2010
Pescado
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« Reply #29 on: May 29, 2012, 05:21:57 PM »

most airbrushes are good enough...the problem is the thick paints and air pressure...

 Good enough for what?  Broad coverage yes, fine detail, no way.

 PB

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Paul Borkowski
Blue Ribbon Taxidermy & Supply
Agawa Canyon Outfitters, LTD.
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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Taxidermy Discussion Categories  |  Fish Taxidermy  |  Topic: question about Badger Velocity problem « previous next »
 



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