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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Beginners, Training & Tutorials  |  Tutorials  |  Topic: WING"TIPS" # 14 hip attachment « previous next »
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Author Topic: WING"TIPS" # 14 hip attachment  (Read 11148 times)
wingman
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« on: May 16, 2007, 11:53:14 PM »

Well here's another tip requested by several people. It's a simple concept but it does take a little practice as ''things may seem backwards'' as you put the proper bends in the wires and attachment into the body, I prefer to use this method on most to all birds as it leaves little room for leg placement error and in  the anatomy of the bird. Once you get used to wiring legs this way you can even remove the main bone leaving only the ''drumstick'' bone and all you will have to do is put the proper bends in the right spots, always use reference for your bone lengths so you know where the wire needs to be bent. The following set of pics shows the procedure and explains it visually, Remove all the flesh and marrow from the leg bones LEAVING the bones from the hip joint down. The pics show one leg with ALL the bones intact the other leg has only the drumstick bone remaining and shows the bends in the wire matching the side with the bones. I remove the leg by simply dislocating the hip joint that leaves all the bones and ball joints in place as a piece of reference. The last pic shows where I place cotton batting to fill the thigh area back up as I prefer to not wrap the muscle back in place on the thigh bone, just personal preference. Hopefully the pics will be self explanatory on their own. Good Luck and give it a try, I think you will be pleased at the results!
« Last Edit: May 17, 2007, 12:25:40 AM by wingman » Logged

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                 Philippians 4:13
wingman
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« Reply #1 on: May 16, 2007, 11:55:31 PM »

The cleaned bones and the wrapped body showing the point of attachment.
« Last Edit: May 17, 2007, 12:34:15 AM by wingman » Logged

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                 Philippians 4:13
wingman
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« Reply #2 on: May 17, 2007, 12:01:30 AM »

These pics show the tapeing the wire to the bone, the 90 degree bend at the ball joint and the bird on it's back, legs wired, ready to put the body in.
« Last Edit: May 17, 2007, 12:37:56 AM by wingman » Logged

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                 Philippians 4:13
wingman
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« Reply #3 on: May 17, 2007, 12:11:31 AM »

Side and top ''views'' of the attachment into the wrapped body, Remember to remove the thigh area on foam bodies if you use this method The last pic shows the placement of cotton batting to ''fill in'' the thigh area. GOOD LUCK!
« Last Edit: May 17, 2007, 12:36:53 AM by wingman » Logged

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                 Philippians 4:13
SteveP
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« Reply #4 on: May 17, 2007, 12:54:15 AM »

Thanks again Wingman! I've been nervous about using the femur for fear of not being able to replace the odd shaped thigh muscles. The cotton batting seems so simple now compared to trying to wrap them.
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daniel
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« Reply #5 on: May 17, 2007, 07:20:28 AM »

thanks for your time w.man  ;) all the best DANIEL
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Peter Span
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Corvids, gotta catch them all!

« Reply #6 on: May 17, 2007, 07:33:06 AM »

Cool wingman, thats how I do it too. I also use some caulk around the hip, it makes the bird dry up nice and firm.
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ludvik
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beginner taxidermist :-)

« Reply #7 on: May 17, 2007, 09:11:27 AM »

thanks again wingman!!!
i have waiting for this tips ;D. i will try it on my next bird.

ludvik
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jbogacki76
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« Reply #8 on: May 17, 2007, 09:16:19 AM »

How long does it take you to mount a pheasant?
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hambone
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« Reply #9 on: May 17, 2007, 09:36:41 AM »

Nice job wingman how about the drumstick do you not add anything to that area?
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wingman
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« Reply #10 on: May 17, 2007, 10:20:46 AM »

I do not ''wrap'' the drumstick muscle back into place so to say, I will put clay at the base and then some cotton batting,,it depends a lot on the birds size and pose and experience and knowing to ''fill out'' areas which need it, If you were doing a competition bird I would reccomend wrapping it all back but if there's no ''groping'' around like a judge would do you cannot see the difference, its personal preference and when I am trying to do several pleasing mounts a day wrapping the drumstick, etc adds a lot of extra time . It takes me on average three hours to completely mount a pheasant, sometimes faster if I don't have interuptions.
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                 Philippians 4:13
hambone
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« Reply #11 on: May 17, 2007, 10:36:31 AM »

Thanks wingman just one more question the method you just shared is that for a flying and walking pose or just for flying
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daniel
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« Reply #12 on: May 17, 2007, 10:45:18 AM »

I WOULD GUESS STANDING IF THE THICKNESS OF THE WIRE IS ANYTHING TO GO BY ALL THE BEST DANIEL  :)
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wingman
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« Reply #13 on: May 17, 2007, 11:26:46 AM »

Actually this bird in the pics is a flyer,notice the wires don't come out the bottom of the foot, I do wire my birds rather heavy especially birds which are going to be shipped. This method works for both poses BUT I really reccomend it on standind/walking poses.
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                 Philippians 4:13
hambone
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« Reply #14 on: May 17, 2007, 11:50:59 AM »

OK I can see how this method would be good for allowing you to place the legs in a walking position. Something I would like to get your opion on in the future in your wingtips would be how do you add stuffing to the necks of waterfowl where you use an artifical head which prevents you from adding extra through the mouth of the natural bill Thanks again.
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