Shaving a cape...the hard way.
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
May 21, 2013, 06:27:46 AM

Login with username, password and session length
Search:     Advanced search
1447470 Posts in 166323 Topics by 38222 Members
Latest Member: umm550
* Home Help Search Calendar Login Register
Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Beginners, Training & Tutorials  |  Beginners  |  Topic: Shaving a cape...the hard way. « previous next »
Pages: 1 [2] Print
Author Topic: Shaving a cape...the hard way.  (Read 3284 times)
furhound
New Member
*
Posts: 6

« Reply #15 on: December 06, 2007, 10:36:23 PM »

Ok. It's coming into focus. Different edges on the two blades or just "a hot spare".

I've been plowing through all the other reading I can stomach on shaving. There was a few comments about using a drawknife and just pushing away. I tried that and simply found that with a blade sharp enough to slice flesh it went right through in an instant. The difference I see is that I use my fleshing beam which is a chunk of 26" diameter tree. Others talk about 4" PVC. Perhaps a smaller radius beam will focus the cut? Still. It's all a daunting proposition when dealing with a full fur. I'll plug away.

It may be like using a pole lathe. When I first started it seemed impossible to hold the tool, pump the foot up and down and engage and withdraw the gouge with the change in rotation. 3 years later it's still impossible because I just don't do it enough. OK. Bad example.
Report to moderator   Logged
Low T
Platinum Member
*****
Location: my house
Posts: 20399


WWW
« Reply #16 on: December 06, 2007, 10:41:47 PM »

I know you don't want to poop out the money, but a fleshing machine would solve all your problems, you would thin a tanned deer hide down in 30 minutes. And no sore fingers, just a smile from doing it over the hard way. Buying a car is better then walking for free.
Report to moderator   Logged

There is no such thing as gun control, only people control.
Stop Rot,,use it or lose it.
Rest well our friend, you are missed.
furhound
New Member
*
Posts: 6

« Reply #17 on: December 06, 2007, 11:18:26 PM »

Well.. My needs are limited to about 4 furs for a cloak, 6 for a bed covering and maybe 2-3 for knee high boots. I could just buy them outright for about what a machine would cost. I'm one of those historical re-enactor freaks. The process is almost as important as the result to me.

I'm already into Ritell's for more money in EZ-Tan 100 than I'm comfortable with. It's a good product and Bruce is a good man, very helpful. I'm just really, really cheap.
Report to moderator   Logged
John C
Platinum Member
*****
Location: Facebook Arkansas Taxidermist Assoc.
Posts: 13688


Don't mistake my kindness for weakness.

« Reply #18 on: December 07, 2007, 01:08:35 AM »

We found out today the best way yet to fform a piece of pvc pipe. As we were cleaning some skulls in a pot of very hot but not boiling water, my son used a piece of pvc to pull out a coyote skull, after he fished around a bit we saw that it was very maliable(sp), we could put a bend in ot without kinks. So did some experiementing and made a couple  small tapered fleshing beams.

You can also flesh a complete cape by keeping  a single edged razor blade at a 90 degree angle and dragging it down the cape, with some practice you can get pretty good at thinnng the hide. tough on hands but it works.
Report to moderator   Logged

NTA Board member, please support me taxidermist!
Marty Dupertuis
Platinum Member
*****
Location: Ray City, Georgia
Posts: 5282


WWW
« Reply #19 on: December 07, 2007, 09:22:03 AM »

I'm with Mr T on this one.  I wish I had just bought a fleshing machine right away.  Once you get it adjusted right and get the hang of it, it is a life saver.  20-30 minutes and you have a thinned cape ready to mount.  And as I get older, I really like avoiding being hunched over fleshing a deer as much as possible.
Report to moderator   Logged
Bobbi Meyer
Platinum Member
*****
Location: Tipton, MO
Posts: 8347


I luv to ride my tricycle, I luv to ride my trike

WWW
« Reply #20 on: December 07, 2007, 12:39:15 PM »

 I think since furhound is a reenactor and he said the method was just as important I think the beam and knife would about as close to historical accuracy as you could get...of course you're gonna have to give up the EZ 100 for some brain tanning.
Report to moderator   Logged

boarhunter67
Platinum Member
*****
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 3665


WWW
« Reply #21 on: December 07, 2007, 06:44:34 PM »

I use a mini flesher.  I've sent some things out, but I've heard so many horror stories about tanneries that I always worry.
Report to moderator   Logged
Hudson
Platinum Member
*****
Location: Northeast Illinois
Posts: 8028

« Reply #22 on: December 07, 2007, 09:59:52 PM »

They don`t understand the "art" of doing things the way our ancestors did it. I tanned quite a few buffalo robes by hand and with primitive tools, you WILL have a deep appreciation for our Native Americans and ancestors. Sometimes HOW you do something is far more important than WHAT you did.
Report to moderator   Logged

"HOPE and CHANGE" has become....."DOPE in CHARGE"
Save America and boot this toolbag out of office.....
furhound
New Member
*
Posts: 6

« Reply #23 on: December 10, 2007, 03:43:14 PM »

Thanks everyone for the thoughts and tips. It's not hard labor that bothers me, it's difficult skills. As a Jack-of-all-trades you never have time to master anything. Here's what actually came down;

I made a knife. The edge is the same as a cabinet scraper for those of you who know. For those that don't, the simple explanation is that you sharpen a blade like a bloody razor (people often wonder why there's no hair on the back of my left hand). Then, you do the unthinkable and take a hard steel rod and push it hard down the length of your edge. I use a chromed vanadium steel socket. That burrs the cutting edge over to a small hook. Works the same way on flesh as it does on wood. It cuts in but the height of the hook limits the depth of the cut based on the fact that it gets packed. That height can be from .0005 to .010 inches depending on the steel and how you form it. What is way better about flesh is that the burr lasts seemingly forever compared to Oak or Ash. It's dynamite compared to using any traditional edge. I finally found some pictures of historical currier's knives and what I did is completely different. As far as EZ-100 goes, (chuckle), one hurdle at a time. Once I have mastered the processing skills I'll start attempting to use more traditional tannins. My reenactment period is the Viking age. Probably not brains but Oak I'll go for. The challenge there will be my Massachusetts location. They say it takes 3 months or more to tan using Oak. In that time period it'll be freezing, bloody hot or both. None of which are optimal. All will happen out-of-doors so the temperature is what mother nature ordains. A small shelter dug into the ground could mitigate it if I tan from March to May.

P.S. I'm getting the impression this forum is for professionals not hobbyists. Sorry about that.
Report to moderator   Logged
oldterryr
Platinum Member
*****
Location: god's country
Posts: 3995


Terry's in Heaven with no worries at all.

WWW
« Reply #24 on: December 10, 2007, 04:31:57 PM »

i have a taxi friend that can do it with a beam and a havel's knife faster than i htot humanly possible - i have watched him do it several times - he predeominantly uses a flesher too but it can be done - also electric  bench grinder works great too
Report to moderator   Logged

jesus is forever!!

http://tdavistaxidermy.com/
M.T.
Platinum Member
*****
Posts: 2229

« Reply #25 on: December 11, 2007, 12:03:40 PM »

I've done approximately 700 deer heads over the years and I have never used anything other than a 6 inch oak beam and a Fillet Knife.  Now I made the beam so that the top of it comes to about a one inch radius and it works great for eyes and nose .  I use a  carbide knife sharpener along with a Steel, and you must keep your knife very sharp.  I can flesh, shave, split, and turn ears all in about 60 minutes.  My wife had bought me a Dakota flesher a few back from Vandykes, but I sent it back.  No need for it!  The beam I have is 54 inches long and I just shove the bottom in the corner, throw the skin over it and start to shave.  I wear a plastic apron because I hold it up with my chest.
Report to moderator   Logged
paul e
Platinum Member
*****
Posts: 1372


« Reply #26 on: December 12, 2007, 07:29:16 AM »

if your just fooling around 8" pvc and wire wheel
if your even mildly serious get a GOOD fleshing machine
save your money and get one of the quality ones
that means you need at least 1200 or so
if you start saving now and get a good one
youll save yourself a whole lot of misery

ya there more than one way to wipe yourself
corncobs or newspaper
thell both get the job done
but damn
or use the right  tool for the right job lol
Report to moderator   Logged

using stop-rot up front makes everything else go better
and somewhere off in the distance a deer grunted
Pages: 1 [2] Print 
Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Beginners, Training & Tutorials  |  Beginners  |  Topic: Shaving a cape...the hard way. « previous next »
 



Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP
Contents © 2006-2012 Taxidermy.Net, LLC. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy.
Powered by SMF 2.0.4 | SMF © 2011, Simple Machines
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.22 seconds with 21 queries.