I got in a repair job a few weeks ago on a Javelina where the Taxidermist had used the real teeth & had only dry preserved the jaws. Well after a couple of years the grease of course started leaching making an unatractive insect infested mount. As we know alot of our customers want the real teeth but both Javelina's & boars are some greasy specimens. I figured I would show the easy way that I do mine when the customer want's the real teeth used in the mount. The exact same principle applies to the way I do my boars. only I set all my teeth before I "All game" the mouth on hog's though. The edges that look a little rough are, but will completely smooth out during finishing. Same apply's with the painting, I do not completely finish my painting till I start finish work, I always wind up painting them different shades every time anyway's
Please excuse some of the blurry pic's. I have a cheap digital camera to use in my work area & I am living on coffee right now so I was jumpy
I had 5 different project's going at the studio today so I did not get home untill after midnight so i'm typing with a caffeine buzz right now LOL
I hope somebody can get something out of this, that would be great....if you don't then I welcome your comments and/or critisizm's. That's what we're all here for is to learn & help each other get better
To all the beginner's, please realize that my way is not the perfect way & there are better ways out there than mine. This is just what I have found works easily for me through trial & error on commercial Hog & Javelina mount's using the real teeth. It's quick & easy & does not cost hardly anything but a few buck's and very little time. One good thing, the material & time lapses between stages allow you to do this in conjunction with other projects you are working on through a normal shop day.
Start by cutting the teeth out of the head.
Then use a releasing agent and cover the entire top jaw. (I use regular hardwood floor wax) and get you some bondo to mix with.
Cover entire inside uper jaw roof with bondo
When bondo has hardened it will form a cast which you will pull off after it has cured for 15 minutes or so.
After you have made your cast, simmer (DO NOT BOIL!)
the upper & lower jaw in about 2 gallons of water & a 1/2 cup of baking soda and dawn soap for 15-20 minutes. After removal, wash in dawn & scrub with a steel brush.
After washing, degrease the upper & lower jaw in a solution of your choice. (I use laquer thinner....if you do also, wear a respirator & protectant gloves!!!!! Laquer thinner can & will seep in to your blood stream through your finger nails and can cause major liver & kidney damage!!!! )
Let dry & mix a ball consisting of equal part's "A" & "B" "All Game" and smooth into upper jaw set.
Take your Bondo cast (wetten before hand to help in release) & push into upper jaw (it will be a perfect fit) squeeze until excess is running out the side. Trim off excess while cast is still in place & then remove the cast from the upper jaw.
This is what the upper jaw detail will look like.
After curing, base paint your jaw's (upper & lower) white. After it has dried use your base flesh color. You may at this time choose to finish painting the jaw's or install them to be finished during completion work. (which is what I do)
Semi finished Real teeth & jaw's before installing
Once later completely finished it will look like the real thing with no worrying about flesh shrinkage, bug's or grease at a later date.
Installed in form
I will post completed pic's of the mount in a couple of week's.
BTW, before somebody ask's, all the black crud on the side of the form is not from a fire
LOL It is from the way I finished the back of the pedestal with saw dust, glue & spray paint