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Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Beginners, Training & Tutorials  |  Tutorials  |  Topic: Making a Head for a Wrapped or Carved Body « previous next »
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Author Topic: Making a Head for a Wrapped or Carved Body  (Read 16160 times)
Jim B
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« Reply #15 on: March 31, 2008, 09:59:01 PM »

Good idea Coal.She'd make me look smart.I sculpted a mink head the other night here are a few pictures.I started off sculpting the nose.If you don't have a death mask,you need an eye to nose measurement plus distance from top of nose to lip and of course nose dimensions.
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Jim B
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« Reply #16 on: March 31, 2008, 09:59:33 PM »

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Jim B
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« Reply #17 on: March 31, 2008, 10:02:47 PM »

Next sculpted the whisker beds and blended those to the nose.You need a width measurement for these.The lip line comes almost down to the tip of the canine which is in the carcass cast head.
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Jim B
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« Reply #18 on: March 31, 2008, 10:05:16 PM »

Next the chin.It doesn't take much clay.Don't cover the canine tip,it's a reference point.
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Jim B
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« Reply #19 on: March 31, 2008, 10:08:49 PM »

Next is the rest of the lipline including mouth corners.Here you need a measurement from corner of eye to mouth corner,mouth corner to front lip and distance between mouth corners.
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Jim B
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« Reply #20 on: March 31, 2008, 10:16:58 PM »

The head was finished up by surfacing with a very thin skin of clay,grinding out ear pockets and just smoothing and refining the steps before.I did neglect to say in the beginning,I first sand the bondo carcass head to get rid of any rough or high spots and also drilled out shallow eye sockets.Any low spots can be taken care of with clay.After final shaping,I smoothed it with a smal brush dipped in paste wax.Mineral spirits work also.I hope these pictures will make it a little easier to understand.How'd I do Lisa M?
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Jared Adams
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« Reply #21 on: March 31, 2008, 10:29:55 PM »

Thats incredible work Jim!! I can't wait to see the flex foam tutorial ;D BTW, excellent drawings ;)
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Jim B
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« Reply #22 on: April 01, 2008, 12:27:42 AM »

OK,I found some time tonight to pour the mold.I sprayed the head with laquer and air stapled a tongue depressor to the back of the neck stub.I had to shim it a little as the nose was bottoming out in the cup.
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Jim B
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« Reply #23 on: April 01, 2008, 12:49:51 AM »

I mixed 5 oz. of silicone(7 oz. cup)with it's catalyst,scraped and poured it into a 2nd cup and mixed it again.This helps eliminate any unmixed material.I then lightly brushed a thin layer of silicone all over the head,working it into the details.I suspended the head in a clean cup and gradually poured the silicone in till the cup was filled.As soon as the rubber is cured,I'll be able to pour a head.
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Lisa M
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Swing like no one is watching...lol

« Reply #24 on: April 01, 2008, 10:14:12 AM »

WOW Jim...you got all sorts of serious about this tutorial didn't you?!  GREAT JOB!!  Thank you so much for taking the time & sharing with us.  You do fine & dandy with your writing when you space out the sentences a little bit.  ;)  I saved this in my How To folder along with the thread address.  I can't wait for the tutorial category to get here.  I have one on dream catchers almost ready to go.  :) 

Please show us when you pull the head out and cast the foam.  I love this kind of thing! 
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mk
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-30 below

« Reply #25 on: April 01, 2008, 11:07:25 AM »

jim looks good!  is that critter clay you are using? 
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DropTine
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« Reply #26 on: April 01, 2008, 12:31:07 PM »

Thanks Jim. Full of information. Mark
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Drop Tine Taxidermy  St. Cloud MN

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Jim B
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« Reply #27 on: April 01, 2008, 02:42:10 PM »

Thanks Lisa.MK,it's an oil based modeling clay.
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Jim B
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« Reply #28 on: April 02, 2008, 02:38:40 PM »

I let the mold cure for about a day and a half,then pulled the model out.It helps to pull the silicone from the plastic cup first,then you can flex it better which makes removal much easier.The mold came out well.There was a little of the dark paint eft in the mold which will come out on the first pour.I used a 10 lb. density foam to pour my head.This gives me a denser head.You can use the usual 3 lb. foam,but the open backed mold doesn't compress the foam much so it will produce a head that is less dense than you are used to getting from supliers.It still can be used though.          I mixed the foam with a drill and mixer and poured it in the mold.
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Jim B
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« Reply #29 on: April 02, 2008, 02:43:25 PM »

The 10 lb. foam takes longer to get fully hardened so I waited 1 hour to pull the head form.Again,taking the silicone from the cup,allows you to flex and stretch the silicone more easily.Just make sure it goes back in the cup for storage or pouring more heads.The cup is your mother mold.I mixed 1 1/2 oz of foam and it was way to much.3 lb. foam will expand much more.
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Pages: 1 [2] 3 Print 
Taxidermy.Net Forum  |  Beginners, Training & Tutorials  |  Tutorials  |  Topic: Making a Head for a Wrapped or Carved Body « previous next »
 



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