DP whitetail mount, Dried two weeks, hair slipping?

Submitted by Matthew on 2/21/02. ( TFMtaxidermy@bigfoot.com ) 207.136.22.53

Well.. My first mount. I did all the steps involved in a dry
preservative mount, everything looked ok for a first. :)
No hair slippage at that time. Checked it just about everyday for the
last two weeks. Seemed dry so I went to do the finishing touches
on the head today..... and noticed I could pull LOTS of hair out if
I pulled...(VERY easily to I might add) which I immediately stopped
doing! I searched the archives and found two references that seemed
to relate to this problem. One was "if it's slipping now, it was
slipping when you mounted it". Mine wasn't to the best of my
knowledge, so on to two. "DP mounts sometimes take over two weeks
to dry and lock around the hairs." Do you think this is what I'm
experiencing? Or am I looking at a bald mount in a few weeks, months.

Thanks, Matthew

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oh yeah, the head seems alright, its from the neck down

This response submitted by Matthew on 2/21/02. ( ) 207.136.22.53

thats loose.


Be Pacient

This response submitted by Tim on 2/21/02. ( ) 204.136.184.34

It will dry and set the hair eventually


DP whitetail mount, dried two weeks, hair slipping?

This response submitted by Glen Conley on 2/21/02. ( g.conley@verizon.net or whitetaildesign@aol.com ) 63.27.103.40

First off, see question for John C. about post from 3/12/01, and see
if anything looks familiar!
I have some strong suspicions as to what has occurred,and I would truly
appreciate having some hair samples from that mount for microscopic
examination. Put about a dozen hairs in separate small plastic bags from
the back of the neck, in or slightly below the bib area, brisket, and
shoulder. Include your phone number and mail to:
Whitetail Designer Systems 512 N.W. 4 th. st. Richmond,Ind. 47374
I can not promise you that I will find anything conclusive, but the
odds sound pretty good.
As to a possible fix, try solvent alcohol,also sold as denatured or
wood alcohol, in a small test area first, trimmings hanging over the
back board would be best. Just wet the hair enough that it gets down to
the skin. Solvent is the key word here, if you are going to get positive
results, they should show up as soon as the alcohol has evaporated off.
If you try this route, be careful, the solvent alcohol is highly
flammable, and is a certified BRAIN BURNER! Using out doors would be the
suggestion.


Where's Bill Engvall?

This response submitted by George on 2/21/02. ( georoof@aol.com ) 152.163.188.225

STOP PULLING THEM.


Forgive me for my opinion, but why dry preserve?

This response submitted by Jason on 2/22/02. ( ) 216.67.203.113

I am going out on a limb here, but it is time for a good debate! :)

Although it may be possible to have a decent deer mount with dry preserve, you are inviting alot of problems. I am not sure how many taxidermists understand the chemistry in a skin, but there are microscopic fats and lipids in the cell walls of the skin. Without pickling the skin in some type of acid or pickle solution, those fats WILL eventually go rancid and ruin the skin. Or worse, attract bugs. Especially if you live in a damp climate or have a wet season and the "dried" mount absorbs moisture out of the air. If you want a quick mount, at least heat up some liquid tan and rub into the skin.

I have no doubt that many artists have had wonderful success with dried skins, but I see an awful lot of mounts falling apart after a few short years because they were not tanned propery. Why use a method that allows for NO margin of error? I mean, if you do not remove EVERY little piece of meat / fat / membrane from the skin before dry preserving, you dont have a prayer of a mount that will last 5 years.

That is my opinion, so tell me what you think!


Many thanks.

This response submitted by Matthew on 2/22/02. ( ) 207.136.20.150

Tim, I hope so! :)

Glen, I couldn't seem to find the question you are refering to
but I'll give the alcohol a shot and see what happens.

George, I think thats what I said I did in my first post. :)

Jason, well.. just seemed easier at the time...

Thanks guys I appreciate the help.


Jason, have you been snorting DP again

This response submitted by George on 2/22/02. ( georoof@aol.com ) 205.188.208.101

You'd make a good politician, but the "facts" you espouse simply are not. This battle has been bloodied many times in the archives and if you need a refresher, just go over there. Acid pickles are relatively new in their "MUST DO" and some of the better topical tans still list it as an option. I've done them all and I like a tanned hide, but I have a mount on my wall that's nearly 30 years old and it still looks as bad as my skill level at that time, but certainly NOT because it was done with DP. Sure, DP will draw moisture, but not many people have their mounts out on the patio or in their sauna. As for bugs, DP has a better chance since the borax inhibits insect infestation where tanned hides need to be treated periodically. I'm tearing down a mount done by a less talented individual that is less than TWO YEARS OLD, and guess what: it's a tanned hide. The cape is drummed and cracked. The reasons aren't in the preservation method, rather than the taxidermy methods. Nearly every bird you'll find mounted in this country is done with some kind of DRY PRESERVATIVE. Now how does that align with all your "facts"?


The DEBATE has begun! (again)

This response submitted by chris on 2/22/02. ( ) 65.201.32.198

I just finished my 1000th deer mount,using DP.I guess to some on here I still am not classified as a taxidermist. SO WHAT!I have had great success with the stuff,no complaints,never had a deer mount returned to me for any reason.I cant believe that some on here would bash those who prefer to use DP rather than do the tan thing.This to Jason in the previous post,I suppose the chemistry in a skin is very important with all the fats and lipids and so on.I wouldn't know,I leave all mine on the floor after a fleshing session.UH OH the secret is out, thats right the key to a quality mount, any method mounted is the fleshing.I flesh,wash,tumble, flesh again.I then proceed with the mount.I can assure you that there's nothing wrong with a DP mounted deer.I have one in the garage that has been there for 9 years ,guess what, it still looks good,NO BUGS,no hair on the floor.It was mounted by a fellow who used no glue,milk jugs for ears,used wierd looking eyes,and sewed the mouth shut but the fact that the hair still looks just like the day I took him is fact.Think of all the moisture this mount has been exposed to.I don't really care what anyones method of mounting their deer are,I just know my method works for me,nothing but well satisfied customers,with smiling faces and pockets full of cash.I suppose all the ribbons lying around the shop were (MERCY PRIZES) hehehe.FACT is , mount the way you like, if it pleases your customers,BE HAPPY.If not FLESH better.OH yeah,Matthew,DONT PULL ON THE FREAKING HAIR on any deer mount.LEAVE IT ALONE.


Used DP for 15 years and ..........

This response submitted by MattC on 2/22/02. ( ) 206.74.235.48

I have NEVER , EVER had that happen...Not once. 300(average) boar mount a year since 1994 and about 200 Deer mounts and I have never had that happen on a cape. Even the "marginal" capes I get in have not slipped.

I suspect user error has happened here...or the cape was already in bad shape.


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