Have any of you used the Buckeye Hide Adhesive, the one that says it is for use with dp? How long is the work time before it sets? I had seen in the archives that they make one specifically for dp and thought about trying it. Just wanted some opinions on the hide adhesive ( no dp insults please) Thanks, Becky
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Any time you see the Buckeye name on something, you can just about figure that it will perform as claimed. The Eppleys, Brad, Bryan, and Hilton and Cary Cochran have always worked on taking things to the next level. You should not have the curdling reaction from the dp absorbing the water from this hide paste. Dry/kick times are always open for some variations. It also makes a good adhesive for earliners for some of the wet tans.
I look at advertising as an absolute opposite of an individuals integrity. Business, after all, is still business. Buckeye adhesives are as good as any contact cement will allow, but for dry preserved hides, they absolutely cannot and will not work as effectively as the epoxy hide pastes will. The hide will dry and constrict faster than the hide paste can set as it has no accelerator in it. NOW, if you intend on carding, pinning, stapling, and nailing to insure the hide stays put until the glue dries, that's a whole nuther animal. But then you have the pin holes and card creases to deal with. If you are using DP and want to insure a quality fit that shrinks LESS, go to the epoxy hide pastes.
George is right i talked to him about epoxy paste and i dont have any problems since iv used it with it good sugestion goodluck Robin
I have some Killer Glue but have not tried it yet. I see a lot on here about Epo-Grip. Is it about the same as Killer Glue? Which is better? If I use the epoxies, does that mean that I won't need to do the carding? That would be a big time saver and I really hate to card because of the holes and dimples. Thanks, Becky
I've used it when Ron Carter's Lock Tite stopped being sold, but it was a bad experience. You couldn't thin it and it had a tendency to "glop" up. Steve Steinbring of Newton Supply allowed me to do most of the field testing on the Epo-Grip and in my myopic opinion, it's as good as it gets. If you apply it evenly all over your mannikin, there should be no "adjusting" after the initial taxiing and absolutely no pinning or carding IF THE HIDE FITS PROPERLY. You have 5 to 6 good hours of work time with it when you get it on the mannikin (but get it on, you must as it will kick MUCH faster if you leave it in the mixing bowl). Some others have recently come on the market, bu they seem to be poor imitations.
Becky,
Contrary to some believe, Buckeye Adhesive works GREAT with either DP or tanned skins. I use it alot personally and I do NOT have to pin or card and I do not have any drumming. Of course it all boils down to your skin must fit the mannikin you are using. I have even thinned it down and still worked great. Some might say that I am biased, but not anymore than anyone else. Time is money in my shop and if I can take a glue straight out of the bucket without any mixing and it works great, than what else can I ask for.
I too use buckeye adhesive and agree with Heath...I also do not card and use only one pin in front corner of eye on deer (just make sure skin fits correctly). Have also used the one for dp in the past it too works well. I can't say what the set up time is but you do have a decent amount of time.
Only thing I worry about on the epoxies is what if I want to redo a mount? Can't be done huh George? I have done it in the past with other adhesives and a good tan out of curiosity.
I can't imagine any scenario that would make me want to remount a fresh mount. IF that were the case, I'd "freshen" the mount completely just as I would any others. And IF your adhesive allows you to strip the cape off easily after it has dried, that you and Heath have blown your stories. Obviously the adhesive is not holding the hide. My statement stands. I've been up and down both sides of the mountain and I've used all the adhesives and epoxies that have come along. I keep a bucket of Buckeye for some lifesize work and for fish, but when I want to be sure that my hide stays in place permanently after I walk away from the mounting, I'll stick with what I KNOW will work: epoxy.
I have to agree with George on this issue. I have tried about every adhesive on the market that was supposedly going to solve my adhesion problems but noe even came close to Epogrip products.I had the same problem with Killer glue it was just too darn thick. Cartilageliner from McKenzie was about the same. Locktite was just a plain mess and the latex type including above mentioned just don't hold. I would like to see one of those pinless deer and I bet in at least one area they will pull somewhere. Im not trying to ruffle any feathers here Im only going by my own experiences and it all leads to Epogrip.If a mount is done the right way the first time who the heck would tear it apart? Well anyways good luck guys, Mark
Thank you for your time and opinions.
George,
Never said anything about a FRESH mount....nor redoing one after using BA (what I did say was; after using OTHER adhesives). Also I did it to see how good the TAN was..So far all I have done for customers is freshen up mounts. I have been asked though in the past if it was possible to put a larger set of antlers on a smaller mount..that was the reason for my question. I have not tried to take one apart after using Buckeye yet but I will definitely take a scrap piece of skin and glue it to a mannikin and give it a try just for ..... and giggles. In the meantime I still stand behind Buckeye Adhesive.
Oh one more thing Mark I have NO reason to lie about having to pin my deer heads...As I have said: a Good tan, proper shaving, proper size mannikin, and knowledge and NO problemo! Have a nice day everyone..
Im afraid a few of you might have your names mixed up, its hide adhesive we are speaking of, not the Supreme we are usually praising. I too know how good the BE Hide ADHESIVE is on ears, etc. I teach it in my classes as well. It does set up like an accelerated adhesive, thats why I use it. I cant say on dry preserve though, sorry. Glen mentioned the curdling reaction, and I agree with him. Of course, I usually do, hes one smart cookie.
Mr. Yox,
I saw your mounts on the new Buckeye catalog, wonderful job I must say. I was reading this post and was wondering, what type of glue do you use for your mounts? You didn't mention it in your post.What would you recommend and what type have you had the best results with. Thanks