OK, I tried the alum tan, and I'm not even sure if this is tanned or not...
Here's what I did, maybe someone can tell me what I did wrong:
I started with a fleshed and salted tail that I wanted the hair on. I wanted my finished product to be firm and maybe even a little on the stiff side.
I soaked it and washed it and scraped it a little more, even though I didn't get much off.
I went with the alum tan because most articles I read said that stiffness was a side effect and you needed to work it a lot. Also because it is safe for beginners to try!
I dissolved alum in the water and added salt and soda (it called for crystalized but I used regular baking soda, which may be my problem) and i added the tail. It soaked for 2 weeks as the directions I read said 1-2 weeks and I wanted to be sure. I agitated the water a few times each day and had to add more water here and there to replace water that evaporated as time went by.
When my 2 weeks were up, I took it out, washed it again and tied it in the shape I needed and hung it to dry out.
I skipped the oiling so it would be stiff, but it isn't! The skin is white and kind of thick now, thicker than it was when I was scraping it. But it's still a little wet too, it's been hanging since last night and not all the way dry yet. It's real pliable and soft, but has a slight tiny odor to it. Is that because it's still wet? It doesn't smell like leather.
Does this sound like a normal tan? Am I panicing too soon since it isn't quite dry yet?
It's ok if it's a little more pliable than I wanted, but I don't want it to spoil.
If alum isn't the way to go, what kind of tan should I use?
Thanks so much for any input!
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Well, first of all, the hide ain't orlon or another synthetic that dries in minutes. I have never used baking soda in an alum pickle - that is a new one on me. The ratio of alum is one half pound alum to one pound of salt to two gallons of water. Actually, you can't add too much salt, and it is best to add all that will dissolve.
The hide is "tanned" when it is white through and through. When the hide is removed from the alum pickle, it should be washed in water to which borax is added, to flush the salt from the hide. After the relaxing bath and rinse, it may be arranged to dry. When it completely dries, it had better be in the shape you desire, because it will be stiff. I would advise rubbing in a little neats foot oil or protol before it becomes completely dry.
Should you salt before you flesh or vice versa, and where can you buy borax other than over the internet?
Thanks,
~Wakeboarder
Always flesh first then salt. As for borax you can buy it at your local grocerie store in the laundry area.
But I think I did do something wrong... it has an odor to it still. I see that it really does take awhile to dry though!
How about liquid tan? Is that any good? It seems too easy to be true! A paste you spread on and let sit for a day and vio'la! It's tanned! Is this something I should try?
Can I try something like that after using alum? Once the hair follicles have been closed by the alum, another tan won't cause slippage will it? (I did 2, one is looking good, the other has an odor) If it has an odor, does that mean it isn't tanned all the way through? Now that it is drying, the hide isn't as white and is loking a tan color.
I would use dry preservatives for small mammals like squirrels etc.I'm not refering to borax I mean Van Dykes dry preservative it is excellant even for fish heads fixes them right up[a little better then borax]
Tanning creams and liquid tans I think would be the route to go for deer heads,anything bigger perhaps you might want to learn how to tan yourself.Even a good dry preservative would work for a deer head[not borax]