I have yet to tan a critter from an air dried state, and I'm getting ready to tan three silver fox that are air-dried, no salt, that's they way I bought them. I am scared to DEATH that I am going to lose hair on these critters (they weren't cheap!), what should be my FIRST step in rehydrating them so that I can continue with the tanning process. I'll either be using Rittel's Kwik N Eze one step, or the Rittel's Tanning Kit. HELP!
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I wouldn't take a chance with the pelts if they were never salted....An alum relaxer should prevent hair loss and the use of potassium chloride instead of salt will inhibit some bacteria that could damage the pelts. Addition of borax will prevent a fungal bloom if any exists on the air dried skins. After the preliminary bath to relax, the skins may be transferred to a standard relaxing compound bath and the tanning procedure may continue from there. I wouldn't leave in the alum bath for longer than it takes to saturate they hides.
1 pound alum, 1 pound salt and one pound potassium chloride to four gallons boiling water. Add 1/2 cup borax and one more pound salt after water has cooled.....Transfer the boiling water to a ceramic or plastic container before adding any ingredients. Do not mix in a metal container.
Bruce Rittle may have some advice about compatability with his fine products, or a better solution to your dilemma. I know of no other agent but alum that will relax the green hides without causing slippage.....but then, again, I am no Bruce Rittle.
Thanks Cur, I don't know if I wanna risk it or not... may just try and sell those critters as they are! But NOT NOT NOT to anyone in the UK!
Bonnie,
NO ALUM! NO NO NO
I cut up furs each day and the number one cause of crap fur is an alum tan!
You want to see that $ 20,000 silver fox coat go to the dogs in 5 years? Use alum. Alum is not a good choice for keeping your customers. It's cheap, it's destructive, and it washes out of the skin, and even most taxidermy catalogs nowadays are saying it's not really a tan!
It DOES set the fur well though, but then again, so does rubbing alcohol.
Alum attracts moisture from the air, and the water in the air + the alum = sulfuric acid in the skin. Breaks down the skin and causes dry rot. If you want to sell crap, use alum.
If you want to do it right - use Lutan-F or other non-sulfuric acid producing tan in the skin. ez100 from Rittel's is another great tan, and Rittel looks after the fur people as well as the taxidermists.
I think I know where you got your 3 silver foxes (did the description say "ranch silver fox" and "we do not do the tanning"?), and if it's from the person I think it is, you will be FINE when you tan them up. They will require next to no fleshing because the people who buy the furs to sell them, are GOOD at what they do and they pick the best of the lows. I bought a badger from those people and it tanned up absolutely wonderfully, and it was only an air-dried, long-stored, sight-unseen purchase.
The steps I followed were : rehydrate the pelt in bacteriacide / salt / water solution for 24 hours, then pickle in oxalic acid (pH 1.0) for 48 hours, then do a little fleshing of the whisker pads and nose. Then a good 30 minute degreasng in Kemsol + pickle (pH 2.5). Then pickle for another 12 hours. Then I neutralized in baking soda (pH 6.0). After that, to the tan! Lutan-F [and salt :)] all the way. After 22 hours in the tan (pH 4.0), took it out and voila. No slip! Oiled with Protal and the WASCO stinky stuff and attempted "breaking while the hide is still damp". The results were phenomenal.
$ 290.00 for that XL lifesize Canada Lynx w/CITES if you're interested. Might be cheaper, will check. I do not have it in my possession but I do have a source. Will e-mail ya in the future.
Nope, got the foxes at the Fur Rondy here in Alaska last year. They are in great shape, but haven't ever done a tan on an air-dried pelt before. I wasn't asking about alum tanning, just the best way to rehydrate before I DO tan. I may try some of your steps in the future tho, as I'm always looking for a better way to tan. Yout lynx is a bit more spendy than what this guy is looking for, but thanks for the info!
Read the text......I didn't tell her to TAN the durn things in alum, I suggested relaxing them in alum to prevent slippage....along with Potassium Chloride (A BACTERIAL agent)....Borax (A FUNGAL agent) and some plain ole table salt. I told Bonnie not to leave the pelt in the solution any longer than it takes to rehydrate the hide, NOT the days or weeks it would take to tan a hide in that weak solution....
I am glad to see ole eek mention the oxalic acid.....that is one of my favorite goodies. Only an idiot would use an alum tan for garment grade goods.....
I got some good advice from both of you :)
Still don't know if I'm gonna chance it tho...lol
Might try it on a cheaper pelt tho, see if it works for me.
Thanks again!
Bonnie
I do not offer advice on things I know little or nothing about. I do know that serious fly tyers, do take excellent hides from deer, fox. and many other animals as only the stiffest fur is used for dry flies, because the fly must float.The matted down, cheap stuff is used for nymphs/subsurface flies. I am suggesting you check with an old fly tier, who has years of handling every kind of pelt.hide there is. Hope this helps some, yet; a furrier and/or better yet, a tanner like those out west know their business.