What would be a good glue to glue 2 pieces of leather together permanently? I went to the supplier's site, but there are so many choices!
What have you found that works best?
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Closest thing to "permanent" is superglue, but it crystalizes eventually and will crack apart. The epoxies will hold, but because they are attaching animal tissue, the tissue under the bond will eventually deteriorate. Contact glue holds as well as anything short of rivets and buttons and SEWING of course.
Not sure if the LePage line of adhesives is available in teh US or not.. but here in Canada we have sectionsof our hardware stores that have epoxies, cyanoacrylates (superglues) etc all in one place. If ya look on the back of the package it shows what glues are best for various materails -a nd there is one specifically designed for use on leather. Cant say how good it is as Ive never used it, but I know it does exist - so check yer harware or DIY store and ya should find summin =)
is this for a horse tail prosthesis? If so you might look into Tite Bond II
water proof wood glue.
Contact cement applied to both sides allowed to get tacky before mating the pieces always worked for me I doin't know if it is waterproof though. If you need the pieces to be flexible just space out dots and mate I've done this on soft tanned leather.
This is about the horse tail extension that I've had so many tanning questions about. I've tanned a couple of them now, and saw one at a horse show this last weekend that had some soft leather glued to the hide part. It really did give it a more finished look as well as protecting the hide side that goes against the horse. I think it would also protect the live horse's tail hair too.
It will need to be washed somewhere down the road, but wouldn't be soaked. Just wetted, shampooed and rinsed very infrequently. So I'm glad you mention being water proofed, I hadn't thought to mention that. Do you think contact cement would withstand that? (That is what I have on hand!) The tail is stored in a nylon tailbag, put on the horse to be shown and removed and put back in the bag right after the class, so it could be over a year before it would need washing.
There are too many kinds of contact cement made for me to answer your
question with a yes or no answer. Your can label should give you an
idea on application usage. There are contact cements made for the leather
industry. Any shoe/boot repair shops around you? If there are, I bet
you have a source.
I use the DAP brand for fishing flies, and I haven't had problems yet other than the big toothed critters.
the secret to the contact cement is to apply it to bothe sides and allow it to get tacky then mate the two pieces together carefully .
It's toulene based so wear gloves and avoid the fumes. a decrotive stitch or two might give it an attractive look along with some more strength.