WHAT IS THE BEST WAY ON SATTING IQ SERIES DEER EYES THANK YOU
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The temptation is too great...but I'm gonna pass.
Ed, you're really beginning to surprise me. The luck of the beginner.
Not sure what you mean exactly, but here it is pupil position in a nutshell (sort of):
The pupils are usually parallel to the ground. When the head goes down, the eyes rotate so that the pupil remains parallel to the ground. When the head is up (like a browsing mount), the pupils tend to basically follow the plane of the nose. Of course, there are many other variations of eye rotations, etc., depending on what you want to depict. Breakthrough Magazine had an in-depth article on eye rotation a couple of years ago. You might be able to get a back copy-from them.
Best bet for you: get a good taxidermy manual, such as the Breakthrough Whitetail Deer Mounting manual. Videos are good, too. So is attending taxidermy shows/seminars. As usual, good reference photos are a must have. And you might want to click on the orange search button to see if this has been addressed in an earlier post or posts.
couldn't explain it any better Vicki.! GREAT!
Sorry VICKI...couldn't resist...on Alex's remark.
Get the Vol. #-4 of Jonas TAXHNIQUE...Mounting Game Heads from Jonas catalog...only $12.50.
It's loaded with this exact information, measurement charts, etc.
~ ETCC
Lately I've been seein similar questions as to how many millimeters a pupil should be canted and how level and how many inches this should be for there.
Animals don't read well and most of them get it wrong anyway. How about trying this. Put a thin layer of epoxy/clay or what ever you use as an eye base in the socket area. Take your eyes out (on the IQ's, the hump to the front, of course), but set them on the clay and with your minimaglite or whatever, stand back and look at them. Is there a focal point in their appearance? If there is, set them in and leave them. If they look cross eyed, bug eyed, cock eyed or are just not focusing on the point you intend in your mount, move them.
For years I played that goat rope of graphs, levels, and index marks and even the best intentions sometimes looked goofy. When I started test setting them first, the appearance was much more pleasing to me. Give it a try. It's free and you won't have to wait for delivery. If I'm wrong, then you can still have time to get your order in.
Thanks, Alex. Not sure if that was the answer he was looking for or not.
Thanks for the tip, ETCC. I'm not familiar with the Jonas book, but am sure it is a good one, also.
I agree with you, George. I usually make sure the back of the form is perpendicular to the ground with a level. Then, I lay the level across the eye and make marks parallel to the ground for pupil alignment. I made the mistake once of not being sure the back was straight up and down, made my marks, mounted the deer, took it off the stand, hung it on a wall and THEN realized the eyes were looking UP! I tried the eye level with the liquid in it and the marks, but never did get the hang of it. The graphs came in handy when I first started using them, but don't use them anymore, although I may if I ever find the time to do a competition piece again!
My 'pet peeve' I notice other taxidermists in the area doing is showing a LOT of white behind BOTH eyes. They look cross-eyed!
Have a great day, all!
HEY! There are cross-eyes peepoles...why knot Deers?
~ ETCC
Now that you mention it, Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer looked pretty cross-eyed in the Christmas special...especially when trying to look at his glowing nose!
Every time I see a mount done that way, I want to stick a butterfly, etc. on the end of its nose!
=)
Thank You George, for the information, it is just what I needed to know.
I should have used spell check before I sent the last message.
Paul