I've mounted 3 deer and I have noticed that when the deer are dry, the stitching down the back seems to be pulled/loosened up and you can see the baseball stich(I think this is the stich)
I've seached the archive but nobody else has raised the question.
What am I doing wrong? The last deer I did I used the clay down the back and beat the sticheds in to the clay with a hammer but it still stretched out.
Thanks for any help or insight you can provide.
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DP is notorious for this problem ESPECIALLY if you didn't use a great hide paste to hold the stitches. Tanned hides can shrink if they don't have a good hide paste as well. Make your stitches close in the future and use a good, non-stretch thread (like Fireline fishing line) to sew with. Make sure that the hide paste gets under the stitches to hold them in place as well.
To fix what you have, lay a soaking wet towel over the seam and wrap the neck with plastic freezer wrap. Next day, rewet the towel and let it soak for another day under the plastic. Then carefully cut the stitching and resew it on the third day.
No I used auto tanner with crystals and Rittles Pro oil plus.
Why do you think it is doing this? Am I not holding the stitch together tight enough or what...........I'll try the fireline fishing line on my next one. Thanks.....
Stitches may not be close enough together and/or tight enough. Seam may not be glued well or it could be just the stretch on the thread you used to begin with.
what about hide paste? I have had to go back to using a slow set paste due to being on fire/ems. I use a cape thread that I think is from Van Dykes #6434. The last thing I do is pin a strip of cardboard down the back. I've never had any problems with this and it helps to lay the hair flat.
I was always taught that when you sew up the back that you dont put any hide paste in the area of the stitches, because you dont want to sew into hide paste. I have only mounted about 6 deer heads so far and none of the stitches pulled apart on the back, but I use the short incision with 14lb test fire line and Buckeye Supreme Hidepaste. As you can see I am still a beginner so if can see that i am doing something wrong please steer me in the right direction.
I do it even more differently. I don't put ANY hide paste on my neck while I'm sewing it up. Instead, when the sewing is complete, I roll the mount upside down and roll the neck skin down like a sock. Then I paint the mannikin liberally with hide paste. After I have the complete neck covered, I go back and push extra paste up under the skull cap from the back side and down the seam area. Then I carefully roll the hide back down over the mannikin and adjust it to align my anatomical markers. Now I KNOW the seam has a good coating of paste under it. (I don't cut that groove or use clay just for that reason. I've found a tack hammer afterwards does a pretty fair job of turning that seam "under". I call it malletizing the hide. Works for me.)
Be sure to use as small a needle as possible. If you use a large needle and small cape thread you will create a problem just by doing this. When you look at all the large holes you make you will have a lot of leather to shrink.
I had that problem and went to a smaaallll needle and firewire!
www.taxidermyvideos.com on shoulder mounting deer (haven't mounted one myself yet) where the taxidermist is working with a tight cape. He's gluing the seam as he goes along and, after stitching is done, drives in some finish nails on both sides of the seam. After that, he uses carting (sp?) and t-pins to hold the seam flat. He mentions using the finish nails to keep the seam from pulling apart.
Hope this helps.
Cape is to tight on the form, you need room to move the hide around.
Cape is still to thick, needs more thinning.
No glue in the seam.
Lack of form preprration. Remove the shiney crust.
Poor hide paste.
as mentioned needle to big for cape thread.
stitches to wide, no more that 3/16ths apart, needle will gauge you, I use a 2 inch small gauge needle and cape floss form Tom Powell end of McKenzie Supply. I also tie off every three inches, reason is should one area pull the other will not.
Once you have the mount groomed, use 1/8th inch hardware cloth and staple or pin it down the seam. I put a staple every 1/2 inch or
t-pin. through the screen hardware cloth.
When removed at two weeks drying time the seam will be forever there.
Work more hide up on the form, these will relieve a lot of seam pressure., the last thing I do is staple the the back, get every thing worked up and onto the form set the brisket area.
Pin, staple then trim up the back.
It floors me that every time something goes wrong with a mount, you guys automatiocally think it was DP. Well I guess that tanning has it's problems too doesn't it. Put pins down your sew line in the gaps that your needle did not go through and roll the hide up and Epo-Grip and you will never have one pull, with or without DP.
That's a pretty dumb indictment of us. DP DOES shrink more than a tanned hide, HOWEVER, the only reason I said that was that it is posted in the "BEGINNERS" category. Many, if not most, beginners start with DP. Nothing wrong with that in my view. I used it for about 20 years and I STILL use it on my small game. Big whoop. With the resurrection of all these "new" alum tans, I have the feeling we're going to see a lot more of these type problems resurrecting themeselves during the future as well.
Do you all sew up your cape with a single or double strand of thread? Thanks John C. for the tips above, I got a few good hints that I wasnt using! I do mine like George-roll up the hide and apply paste after sewing, then pin...works GREAT-and saves alot of mess! Buckeye Supreme works great for me as well!
Thanks for the great info everyone!
I will try most of the ideas you gus/gals offered. Thanks for the help.
I used a large needle no hide paste under stiches and the thread was single strand . Off to buy some more thread fire type and use a samller needle.
I've used both and until I began using Fireline, that's about the extent of it. I did a true baseball stitch from both sides so I could keep the hide tight. BUT that caused a ridge I could feel under the hair. After Ken Walker introduced me to Fireline, I found that I could tie off the "V" of the "Y" and then continue with a wrap stitch down to the end. When I get close, I clip one side, pull the single thread through the other and then tie it off. Then I rethread both threads and stick it down through the seam and push the needle out the side of the neck someplace leaving the tag ends to dangle until the glue dries. This pulls that last knot down into the seam where it can't be seen (or felt) quite as easily.
I think I understand, but I'm gonna print that out and take it into the shop and read and try at the same time... I appreciate your time and the info ALOT!