hey man i searched the results as i stated in my original message. and i wrote down what i found out. i wanted some other ideas or opinoins about how to fix the pheasant beak coloration, not some smart ass remark from someone thinking that i didnt bother looking a problem up in the archives.
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but you sound like a dick.
Its a pheasant beak, a little ivory white and you are done. Not like its a big deal.
You were to lazy or you would have seen enough answers to calm even the rankest of beginners.
What you want is individual attention saying this is it. Well Kapster since you cannot use your real name, dont bother answering.
I bet y ou would not be a smart ass if you used your real name? What say you.
Now for the pheasant beak, what are you looking for? Your problem is and easy fix, a little thought on your part and you should have been able to see what you needed to do!
Maybe your problem is what do the legs look like? I will bet they need some work! Much more than a little coloring on the beak.
So look at your reference materials! Are you one of those who claim they cannot afford them? Well little one there are a lot of close up photos on the web.
We can tell you how to fix anything, but your ability and lack of reference materials tell us maybe you are not worth wasting the time telling you how your problem is so different than anyone else has ever had with a Pheasent beak.
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WASCO
This response submitted by George on 11/21/2002. ( georoof@aol.com ) 152.163.188.227
Get their Waterfowl Finishing book. It's in the back along with turkey and mourning dove. Or simply order the schedule alone.
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Beaks
This response submitted by Dan Moon on 11/21/2002. ( dan.moon@cabelas.com ) 63.124.205.5
Pheasant beaks and any painting is totally your interpretation of what you see in your reference pictures. Not all beaks are going to be the same, some are more transparent while others are white or ivory in color while others appear yellow. I too have difficulty in getting a good paint scheme on pheasant beaks when trying to get that transparent look. Get the paint schedule like George suggested and try it if you like it, continue to use it. If not start to investigate on your own, take the time to write down your own schedules when you find the one you like you have it wrote down and can go back to it over and over.
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Why not try diluting your paint with clear gloss.
This response submitted by John C on 11/21/2002. ( ) 64.216.172.89
Seldom is true painting needed, try using the diluted color I bet it will work better for you.
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Continue using the real beak!
This response submitted by fb on 11/22/2002. ( ) 207.247.115.58
My advice would be to continue using the real beaks for your pheasants. Once dry, they will darken in color. Mix some white and tooth yellow and just mist it over the beak as John C. said, just to bring back some of that light color. Less paint is always best in taxidermy.
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Permanent color markers
This response submitted by John Buchel on 11/30/2002. ( ) 12.65.78.180
I use to use permanent color markers. Sometime more than one to get the right tone. Then rub it down with an oil to get the transp. look.
pheasant
This response submitted by Nancy M. on 10/25/01. ( ) 209.180.200.184
My method is a little bit unconventional, so you may want another opinion, but here goes:
I normally paint the beaks with a brush, using acrylics. Mix unbleached titanium white with yellow ochre (oxide) and then add tiny dots of Payne's grey until it reaches that pale greenish canvas color that they have. It's hard to describe. GET REFERENCE!
The feet I just mist lightly with Polytranspar's Diver grey. Don't block them out- just lighten them a little and let the scales show through.
Airbrush the wattles with cadmium (gill) red.
For non-competition work, that should do it.
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Paint
This response submitted by Tony Finazzo on 10/25/01. ( finazducks@aol.com ) 198.81.23.73
I like to paint with laquers so the following will be with the use of laquer paint.Legs First. First spray a med light coat of mallard tan. over the entire leg. than use a lite coat of umber not compleatly covering the mallard tan leave the back of the leg and bottom of the toes lighter. I than mix burnt umber with a drop or two of black to make a dark gray. Highlite with that on tops of the toes and front of the tarsus. very litely (almost not noticeable) highlite the joints of the toes and the tarsus. If you can easily see it it's too much. The last thing I do with a pheasant is use a water base acrylic and do a highlite wash to make the scale detail
lite instead of dark (ducks). The bill I spray it first with a neutral gray, then Go over it with an ivory or off white leaving the edge slightly darker than the rest of the bill. Bass belly white will work for this. Then go over the bill with yellow ochre. This should be sprayed on the culman or top of the bill from a distance of 7 or 8 inches This ochre should be thinned and applied ever so lightly. The last thing to do is spray an even lighter coat of whit pearl. If you can see it go on without a strong light it is too heavy.
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Pheasant Reference Photos
This response submitted by Glen Browning on 10/27/01. ( glenbrowning @shaw.ca ) 24.76.29.109
Robert, remember, reference, reference, reference. (Whew, that's the most r's in a sentence I think I've ever used!) Anyway, without it you are only guessing. There are many different methods of painting but you have know what you are trying to achieve. Having sharp clear reference photos is the only way (next to having live birds on hand) to achieve a convincing realistic look to any avian taxidermy project. I have excellent quality booklets available of 4x6 pheasant photos showing extreme close-ups of all facial details in side, front, and top views, as well as numerous full body shots showing different profiles.
I also carry a complete line of acrylic bird eyes, acrylic display cases, as well as advanced finishing courses for anyone interested. For brochures and costs just e-mail me. Cheers,Glen.
If you truly did a search, then you would realize that every posable method of repairing your problem has been covered. Did you think something new had been invented? Although I understand you were looking for a fresh Idea. John C, said nothing out of line. his advice was good advice. Just what you asked for. John may very well have answered the question, and knowing that he had posted very good advice that could be found in the archives directed you to it. Rather than writing it again. And possibly loosing some of it in the hum drum rewrite. See my post in the thread below entitled Chill Out. It may open your eyes why not to be so thin skinned
call me lazy ass call me [expletive deleted] i dont care... i dont feel like getting into a dumb internet arguement. my fault i didnt buy the Breakthrough refrence guide to pheasant beaks. first thing tomorrow i will buy it and all the other crap i need just so i dont have to ask master taxidermist so and so a simple question to a simple problem. i dont need all this working class hero bullcrap. im 20 yrs old and just started doing this and ran into a problem that i wasnt sure how to handle. listen i know no one said anything out of line, but all the time on here i see someone has asked a question and someone always responds "check the archives 3,000,000 options on such and such found in 2.8 seconds..." whoppede doo. and no im not going to use my real name so that people can find out where i live and what not.
John go get a life and PLEASE stay off this site.......