I am using the baseball stitch, and I have done 4 mounts and all seems to have at least a 1/4" of spread on them after they dry. I've tried diffrent cape thread but it didn't help, tried putting push pins in didn't help. last on I did I got the form 1/2: smaller still didn't help. I am using wet tan method. The deer look good except for that.
I looked at the deer my husband had done, and it has a little seperation, also.
Is this natrual, or am I doing something wrong?
Thanks ;)
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It's the tan,or not having a good glue to hold the skin from shrinking. IF his looks good, it's the gluing process where he's getting glue under that seam after it's finished.
On the first 2 I ddin't put any hide paste under the hide near the stitching. On the 3rd one I tried the clay down the back method, and on the 4th I but some hide paste under but not right down the stitch area. I am using derma grip.
So if i put derma grip under the sewn cape do you think this will help my problems? :}
Any adhesive needs to be 100% coverage for the detail to remain in the hide. Many taxidermist only glue areas they want held, but how much money are they savings. Ever square inch of hide that DOESN'T have glue is pulling against those tiny areas that do have glue. Fat chance of the glue working no matter how good it is. And remember, glue cannot and will not hold areas where clay, oil, or mold release are present. You want the hide attached to the form, then only the form is what must be in contact with the hide.
#1 10 lbs of crap in a 5 lb bag.... Your form selection is too large.
#2 You are not thinning the hide enough.
You should be able to glide any small needle through the hide easily without pliers or pre-punched holes. You should not have to stretch the hide ANY to make the seam come together.
I don't think form selection is the problem. I do however think that not putting the paste under the stiches might be where it lies. But I would like to know how thin should I shaves the hide, (the last one I did you could easily pull the needle through.) I think I'm shaving thin but how do I know if it's thin enough?
:{
You also have to pull the seam tight as you go. Don't wait till the end and try to pull the whole thing tight... Cinch it up as you go and put small half knots in to hold it there as you continue on. Lots of times if there is slack in the line, the seam will pull apart.
Les
First and foremost, thinning a deer isn't NECESSARY. It's preferred and advantageous, but not REQUIRED. I usually try to thin mine down till the white of the tan begins to look light blue, BUT if you have a Southern Tier Deer and try to thin it, you're going to be looking at hair falling out.
Second, ALL HIDES SHRINK. Too big a form COULD be a problem, but it certainly doesn't HAVE to be the form size. Especially if you don't taxi them every day until they firm up. Don't believe it? Tuck the eyelids on day one and don't touch a thing for 2 weeks. Tell me what you're going to do to fill that void around the eye.
Third, DON'T cinch your thread tight. Snug, maybe, but tight: no. Cinching your thread tight simply pursestrings your cape. You end up with wavy pimples in your seam and early season deer will SHOW after drying. I make two stitches and then snug it, two and snug, etc. When I'm done, I roll the deer over and invert the hide up over it's head and face. NOW I spread glue all over the mannikin making sure I push it up under the chin, behind the ears, and most of all, down that seam line. Then I carefully roll the hide back down and taxi it to align the anatomical markers.
I use a hidden stitch or roll stitch and when I'm done, I take a small rod and lay it over the seam. Then I tamp it down with a hammer to reinvert that hidden seam properly. I still check it daily to insure it's down as it supposed to be.
Hi Lisa Lee! Sounds like there may be a few to disagree with my methods(ha..ha!), but here goes. I always pull my stitches tight enough to "cinch it up" but not tight enough to make the hair stand up like bristles on a hog's back.I try to knot my thread every three or four stitches to help secure a tight seam and keep it from slipping loose. Then I brush down the seam, and tamp down the raised hair(hammer hitting a wooden handle against the hair-won't cut or break the hair off). If it still seems a bit 'busheyfied'and won't lie naturally, I'll dampen the hair along the seam with water, brush it flat, and place a piece of screenwire over it and pin it down. I usually remove the screenwire after a day or two when the mount has started to dry and brush the hair down. If you leave the screenwire on much longer than that, you'll have a furrow that will resist fluffing back to the same level as the rest of the hair. Good luck-Susan